Onewheeler
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Posts posted by Onewheeler
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We have a portable induction hob at home purchased as a stop gap while waiting for a new cooker. Typically ~1 kW per "ring". They are brilliant, but not for a boat.
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12 hours ago, blackrose said:
With electric cooking it better sit in a marina.
Many marinas have a 6 A MCB on the shore power. That won't run much cooking kit.
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Bits of railway track make good ballast.
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Unless there is a lot of heavy stuff still to go in during fit out you are being fed BS. Go back to the maker. The quantity of ballast that you need will not come cheap and it will cost to have it delivered.
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What some others said. Mine never goes over about 65 C, except when I'm doing over 10 km / h.
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I'd not breast up in potentially choppy waters. The consequences of the ropes coming adrift could be serious, and at the least you'll get a lot of banging and spray from between the hulls. If assistance is necessary, do it on a long line.
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Better at Hest Bank or Galgate and take a bus in. Most of the canal is very shallow at the edges.
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Having collected our stove, i can confirm that he is basically a bloke in a large shed on an industrial estate, the sort where people still make stuff.
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The Boatman bloke usually responds to emails eventually, but never speedily! They're good stoves and he's a nice bloke. Try ringing or persist.
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I've recently taken 200 l of water out of the cabin bilge after the filter on the domestic water pump inlet decided to undo itself. Had to lift a section of laminate (laid crossways so easy), use a hole-saw to access the corner of the bilge that is lowest in the water and pump out with a drill-pump. Last bit of water came out soaked into disposal nappies. There was an inspection holethat I'd cut already in the centre rear but it was hard to get to (being under the bed) and only a slight list to the boat pushed it to one side.
A boat should have throughways at the corners of each of the transverse members supporting the floor to permit water to drain to the back.
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If you don't have an immersion heater or blanking plug, it may be feasible to fit an external immersion (also known as a Belfast or Willis immersion) close to the calorifier.
If you do fit an immersion heater, remember that many shore power outlets are only 6 amp so 1500 Watts max. Allow for miscellaneous other items drawing power (battery charger?) and you might conclude that a 1 kW heater is what is needed. It will take longer to get hot water. Alternatively fit a power controller.
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Can you see the waterways guides on the DBA website? You need to be a member. Canalplan is still fairly flaky on the mainland, it's hard to find relevant place names and even whole waterways.
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Sounds as if it doesn't know your number. Try entering it in format +447xxxxxxxxx ?
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As in 1979, the worst wash comes from the police patrol boats. We viewed them with fear when I rowed on the tideway. The 40 knot catamarans of today leave hardly any wake.
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Put some duct tape on the outside. If water needs to drain out it will come unstuck.
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Looks like my access, but better. I've been thinking of getting a hatch installed in the back deck above the weedhatch for twenty-something years, but as I've only been down the hatch three times (twice to look at the prop and once to remove a fishing rod bag) it's not been high on my list of priorities. I guess it depends on how often you need to open it. As years go by and my back gets weaker, it may become more important.
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10 hours ago, dmr said:
I also quite like the idea of a brass shackle,but what size of brass shackle?
Empirically, a 25 mm brass shackle does the job. One can overanalyse a problem.
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Brass d-shackle on one side only. They fail reliably. Experience.
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13 hours ago, Sassy Lass said:
There is PRV and theromstat mixer factory fitted on the surecal, Ive only drawn from the hot take-off, apologies again for the CAD ?
How/where do I fit a pressure gauge ...
In principle you could fit it pretty much anywhere in the pipework. It's often built into the PRV assembly (Screwfix sell one like that, but it gets lousy reviews, mostly due to its poor quality reducer set). Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRESSURE-REDUCING-VALVE-DZR-BRASS-C-W-REAR-ENTRY-GAUGE-15MM-1-6-BAR-PRV/283028234837?epid=1291027221&hash=item41e5cc2255:g:P0AAAMXQVERSvZTd
Plenty of pressure gauges on Ebay, I think glycerin-filled are considered better than air-filled. Your choice of fitting and position: usually 1/4 or 1/8 BSP and bottom or back fitting.
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5 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:
No PRV.
...and put a pressure gauge on the PRV or nearby. It will help diagnose what's wrong when wrongness happens.
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Sealed it is then. One less thing to maintain. Can't grumble at the lifetime of those batteries, I'm on the fourth set in my NB in much the same period.
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It's time to replace the starter batteries on our shared boat. The old ones (Varta) are nineteen years old, their electrolyte looks like soup, and although they are still working their capacity is getting low.
So, sealed or unsealed? (If the new ones last as long as the old ones, none of the current owners will be in a state to care!)
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35 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:
Are you convinced that is closed cell construction?
Not all is, and if it isn't it will not work.
I think this is possibly just a weather / draft seal, rather than a full water seal, but I may be wrong.Yes, it looks like that frmo the Q&As on Screwfix site.
1 hour ago, system 4-50 said:I think mine was called Flexistrip and I got it from Channelglaze. I think Sikaflex is a no-no.
Looks like it would do the stuff. Butyl tape. Ta!
How Safe Are These "External Power Banks" Used for Topping Up Your Phone ?
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Looks like a burnt out seat to me.