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Onewheeler

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Posts posted by Onewheeler

  1. I've recently taken 200 l of water out of the cabin bilge after the filter on the domestic water pump inlet decided to undo itself. Had to lift a section of laminate (laid crossways so easy), use a hole-saw to access the corner of the bilge that is lowest in the water and pump out with a drill-pump. Last bit of water came out soaked into disposal nappies. There was an inspection holethat I'd cut already  in the centre rear but it was hard to get to (being under the bed) and only a slight list to the boat pushed it to one side.

     

    A boat should have throughways at the corners of each of the transverse members supporting the floor to permit water to drain to the back.

  2. If you don't have an immersion heater or blanking plug, it may be feasible to fit an external immersion (also known as a Belfast or Willis immersion) close to the calorifier.

     

    If you do fit an immersion heater, remember that many shore power outlets are only 6 amp so 1500 Watts max. Allow for miscellaneous other items drawing power (battery charger?) and you might conclude that a 1 kW heater is what is needed. It will take longer to get hot water. Alternatively fit a power controller.

  3. Looks like my access, but better. I've been thinking of getting a hatch installed in the back deck above the weedhatch for twenty-something years, but as I've only been down the hatch three times (twice to look at the prop and once to remove a fishing rod bag) it's not been high on my list of priorities. I guess it depends on how often you need to open it. As years go by and my back gets weaker, it may become more important.

  4. 13 hours ago, Sassy Lass said:

    There is PRV and theromstat mixer factory fitted on the surecal, Ive only drawn from the hot take-off, apologies again for the CAD ?

    How/where do I fit a pressure gauge ... 

     

    In principle you could fit it pretty much anywhere in the pipework. It's often built into the PRV assembly (Screwfix sell one like that, but it gets lousy reviews, mostly due to its poor quality reducer set). Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRESSURE-REDUCING-VALVE-DZR-BRASS-C-W-REAR-ENTRY-GAUGE-15MM-1-6-BAR-PRV/283028234837?epid=1291027221&hash=item41e5cc2255:g:P0AAAMXQVERSvZTd

     

    Plenty of pressure gauges on Ebay, I think glycerin-filled are considered better than air-filled. Your choice of fitting and position: usually 1/4 or 1/8 BSP and bottom or back fitting.

  5. It's time to replace the starter batteries on our shared boat. The old ones (Varta) are nineteen years old, their electrolyte looks like soup, and although they are still working their capacity is getting low.

     

    So, sealed or unsealed? (If the new ones last as long as the old ones, none of the current owners will be in a state to care!)

  6. 35 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

    Are you convinced that is closed cell construction?

     

    Not all is, and if it isn't it will not work.

    I think this is possibly just a weather / draft seal, rather than a full water seal, but I may be wrong.

    Yes, it looks like that frmo the Q&As on Screwfix site.

    1 hour ago, system 4-50 said:

    I think mine was called Flexistrip and I got it from Channelglaze.  I think Sikaflex is a no-no.

    Looks like it would do the stuff. Butyl tape. Ta!

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