Onewheeler
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Posts posted by Onewheeler
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Better still, go up to the Boat at Ashleworth an hour before the tide turns, have a pint or two and then ride the tide up to Upper Lode. We've hit about 14 km / h. Watch out for the nav markers opposite the Red Lion.
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Well, the question is a bit like 'where can I get to in a day trip from Northallerton"! Why not ask Google maps for public transport directions to a few places that you might fancy visiting on a day you might like to go?
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No, rivers are lovely in the winter. Empty of other boats and plenty of choice of moorings. Just make sure that the level is low and that there's no bad weather forecast.
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Definitely maybe. Avon goes up and down like a fiddler's elbow. Look at the board and be prepared to tie up for a couple of days, or hang around in Stratford for a bit if we have extended dampness. Severn takes much longer to respond but keep aware of tides below Upper Lode. Lockies will advise, but if nervous avoid a few days either side of new / full moon.
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At the rate they're expanding they'll be buying CART next.
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Not much help to you, but Boden was built at Hesford in 1993. 8/6/4 steel. We've been happy with her for the last 21 years. Some pitting corrosion which I hope has stopped since we moved onto the Thames and had extra anodes fitted - it certainly seemed OK at the last docking. Quite a nicely shaped boat compared with some of the "extruded" boats that one sees although the steelwork is not particularly flat. Don't know much more about the shell, the fitout was done by the first owner. The rudder top bearing seems to be a simple tube, which now rattles a bit but no more than a minor annoyance.
Martin/
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2 hours ago, Mike Hurley said:
At 26 m which is about 85 feet i guess the trip to the pump out is as far as it goes.
Not if on the Thames. Wrong paradigm.
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Might be worth trying this stuff: Envirograf Sealant. It's not "penetrating" but stays flexible and might be able to be worked into the joint. Good on flues. Maybe cover with a tight binding of fibreglass tape? It needs a while to cure.
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Yes, Leyland confirmed that their floor paint isn't suitable. I used an International non slip paint on the back deck a few years ago. Hopeless. It flaked off the Masons paint that was under it, and anything applied on top flaked off too. Had to remove it completely to redo the deck.
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There's always a fisherperson behind a bush who appears when taking relief while steering.
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2 hours ago, Gareth E said:
Like others earlier I mistrust expensive paints with a 'boat' badge. 3 years ago I repainted the rear cruiser deck rails in a boat paint, think it was Rylards. I chose it because it was the closest I could find to the colour the majority of the boat is painted in, now that Crown solo royal gala green is no longer available. 3 years on the Rylards has discoloured badly. A nearby area, painted with the Crown solo, maintains it's colour from 5 years ago. There's no chipping, it's still perfect, apart from where I didn't prep properly. How delighted I was when I found a stockist of the Crown, took the opportunity this summer to repaint the whole boat with the confidence that this will last more than a couple of years.
Regarding the roof I chose Paintmaster oil based grey, over sanded rectangles. The paint cost 12 quid for 2 1/2 litres. It went on nicely and although it's early days, is looking great so far.
So as has been said, a combination of experience and the desire not to be duped into paying 3 or 4 times as much for something, just because it has a badge.
Rylards is used on the cabin sides of our mainland boat share, it seems to last fairly well (in anchusa blue). Some fading, but it sees more sun than in the UK.
I'd not heard of Paintmaster. Did you use the one sold as "boat & barge enamel" or the basic gloss? Did you undercoat?
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On 17/08/2018 at 17:50, Sea Dog said:
So, erm, I hate to ask a dumb question, but what exactly is so bad about all the various types of Narrowboat roof paint?
What Tony said above. Plus, floor paint is supposed to be hard-wearing, and the previous Wickes one has performed very well (and had a very good reputation for boat roofs at the time it was applied). They don't sell it any more, otherwise I'd put another two coats on.
Also thinking of using Crown trade, which can be had for about the same price as the Leyland paint.
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On 17/08/2018 at 19:21, Tony Brooks said:
Which was?
"Is it oil based"? Yes.
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If dodgy contacts in the starter solenoid it may be easy to dismantle it and apply a file to them (I can only speak for having done it on a BMC engine). H&S warning: disconnect power first!!
Martin/
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Thanks both. I've asked the question on the Screwfix web site (had a very prompt reply from Leyland to my last question).
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Buy cheapo and look after them. My last set did twelve years service.
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Has anyone used this on a boat roof? Leyland floor paint Looking to cover our old Wickes garage floor paint which after 12 years is looking a bit tatty.
Martin/
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Try Bowmans e.g.
https://www.ejbowman.co.uk/products/MarineHeatExchangers.htm -
2 hours ago, JB Segal said:
You were not at home when I walked.by northbound, and asleep when I walked home from the Brasenose Arms around 11.
I’m 4 boats south of you on Lily (waiting for RCR, as it turns out. ? )
Ah, that's because we're not there. Will be back on Wednesday and will say hello!
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We're tied up above Slat's Mill bridge. Say hello to Boden if you see her.
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Just now, mrsmelly said:
Food.........FOOD...........you may have found the problem. Fridges are for Beer/gin/tonic etc etc, never food there simply isn't the space!!
Beer / gin / tonic ARE food. Didn't you learn nothing at school?
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With the 230 v fridge on our mainland boat, a bog standard domestic model, we discovered that if you load it with food before it's cooled down it never gets cold (other than in the ice box). Let it cool first then put food in and it's fine.
Martin/
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Having gone from Oxford to Cropredy this week, the water levels were fine except for the pound above Duke's Lock where we were bumping bottom regularly.
Martin/
Stratford to Gloucester and beyond.
in General Boating
Posted · Edited by Onewheeler
If you go down when the river is low and there's no tide, the eastern channel like a canal - lots of overhanging or fallen trees, murky water, floating debris, not much flow!
Worth noting that the entrance to Glos Lock when there is any flow can be interesting as the current sweeps from left to right across it. Aim for the left-hand gate and go at it a bit faster than one would normally. Also, make sure the lockie knows that you're coming by phone or VHF 74 from the upper parting with a second call when you're passing the bridges above the lock. If you have to tie to the wall outside the lock, use stern line only.
Martin/
ps bother, the posting has gone berserk!!!! Can't get rid of the spurious stuff below.