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Posts posted by Onewheeler
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2 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:
17" x 10" for inland use
https://betamarine.co.uk/inland-propellers/
16" x 8" for seagoing boats.
https://betamarine.co.uk/seagoing-propellers/
16.5 x 11 is perfect on our 38, we get within spitting distance of the full 3000 RPM under load. The only time it's been to full speed has been going uphill through a bridge hole in flood, and on open water to see what happens (a huge amount of wash and not much extra speed).
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We don't know if the engine speed is the same whenever starting. A slow tickover will give much less output than a fast, and indeed if very slow it might not even be kicking the alternator into operation.
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No, I'm sure I can cope with that ? I might take a spare pump anyway and bring the defective one back (if indeed it is defective - hard to tell from 1000 km). I do wonder if the partner who reported the problem (and only stayed a day due to France suddenly closing) might have not run the engine, so the pump was pulling air back from the (empty) water-cooled exhaust.
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Thanks Brian, that's very helpful! I shall print it to take with me whenever France permits entry.
Martin/
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16 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
As you take these pumps apart you have to insert an allen key to release the shaft, maybe that has come adrift. I may have a drawing
Ta! I've found a few exploded diagrams online, but it's not obvious how the shaft is connected to the bit that goes round. A flatted end shaft? It might be worth taking a spare pump when we're allowed in to France.
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Well, whatever goes round - can it become detached? A "friend" says he's seen goods like that in a more specialised outlet...
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Is it possible for the impellor on a Jabsco Par-Max 2.9 to come detached from the motor shaft?
Just wondered, trying to diagnose a problem reported second-hand by one of our partners on a boat in a country where we won't be allowed in for a bit.
Apparently it whirrs but no water.
Most likely is that there's something stopping the water getting there (I can think of reasons it could be pulling air), but trying to discount other possibilities.
Martin/
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I built a well-insulated box (50+ mm polystyrene foam) recently for making black garlic. It takes 15 W on average to maintain 65 C (trace heating tape with a thermostat). It would easily hold a pan of stew for two. Put it in hot and I reckon it would only need a handful of AH to keep warm all day.
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Not relevant to the immediate problem, but would anyone like to comment on the rubber hose coming from the fuel filter?
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When I looked a while ago the big difference in energy consumption was whether or not an ice box was included. The difference between A+ and A++ was less marked but a lot of £££.
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We have a "hip bath". At one time we could get two small children in it. It's now a large shower tray.
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If all else fails, take the water level down to below the fitting, cut back the insulation a bit, gently apply a flame from a blowlamp and it should unscrew. Marine calorifiers are designed to take 3 bar or more and are much more rugged than domestic ones.
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Make sure it's mineral oil, not synthetic or semi-synthetic.
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You could easily fit an external capacitive probe, or several, on a plasic tank. I've got one like this: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/level-sensors/3779816/ although I bought it for much less than the current RS price. Mounted in a small box with a battery and sounder, it can be slid up and down the outside of my plastic tank to tell me the level.
A few similar types available on Ebay e.g. item 372728002252 - cheap enough to put, say, one halfway down and one near the bottom. Or something like item 333517827356 with a couple of probes. Searching for non-contact or capacitive level sensors will find a few more.
Alternatively, something like this would be fun: https://www.hackster.io/team-protocentral/non-contact-capacitive-liquid-level-sensing-using-fdc1004-9333c7 The only problem is that the FDC1004 breakout board is hard to get at the moment, and you probably wouldn't want to solder the bare SMD chip without good eyesight and a steady hand. Another possibility is the MPR121 twelve-input sensor https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/9695 You can get the chip with breakout board for about three quid from Ebay. I'm tempted to buy one myself as an experiment.
Good boat name! Cheers!
Martin/
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I got bitten on the bell-end by a mozzie a few years ago (it was hot, sleeping nudie with the window open). It itched like mad and not in a wholly unpleasant way. Normally I'd not mind three days of semi-tumescence, but I was working on a nuclear power plant at the time which involved a twice-daily full-strip communal shower, usually shared with a bunch of rough scaffies.
The horror, the horror... My colleagues still mention it.
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12 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
What about the fish farting
One of the noisiest nights I've had on a boat was in northern France surrounded by toads on lily pads. Sex and croaking all night long.
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There are two Polish builders listed here: http://www.canaljunction.com/boat/builder.htm
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48 minutes ago, Ryeland said:
25mm Celotex/Kingspan will bend quite well.
Two layers of 20 mm will bend even better!
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19 minutes ago, Mad Harold said:
Thanks for that Alan.
I trained as a teacher many years ago and forgot what was drummed into me at that time.
"Don't assume that what is clear to you,is equally clear to everyone else".
Perfectly obvious to anyone who's married to anyone of any gender.
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59 minutes ago, David Mack said:
That says that use of up to 28 days per year is permitted development. It does not follow from that that use for 29 or more days per year necessarily needs planning permission. The document says that needs to be decided on the basis of fact and degree as well as the particular circumstances of a case i.e. there are no hard and fast rules. In practice the OP's daughter can live on the boat more or less full time providing she sometimes spends the night elsewhere (some combination of sleeping in the parental house, weekends away, holidays, staying over at the boyfriend's place, business trips etc. etc.) together with some trips out with the boat away from the mooring that involve at least one night away. In practice, providing there are no complaints (and why would there be?) The local authority will not want to get involved. They have enough other, more important, things to do with their limited resources. This is how hundreds, maybe thousands of marina liveaboards do it, and the OP's daughter need be no different.
When I was idly looking at CART moorings as potential accomodation for my son while he was at university, most stipulated no more than 30 days of occupancy in every 31 (or something very similar). Sufficiently close to full occupancy as to not be an issue for most people.
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6 minutes ago, blackrose said:
I used International Interdeck as it's the only textured non-slip deck paint I've tried that seems to go on evenly. Some of the others create a terrible mess unless you're some sort of professional boat painter. Interdeck is a bit limited in terms of colours available, so to darken the light grey Interdeck a few shades I mixed in 10 tablespoons of black International Toplac per 750ml can of the deck paint. International's technical dept told me it was fine to mix them.
Ta! I used that a long time ago on my back deck on top of Masons paint. It flaked off in a very annoying way, except in patches which stuck like poo to a blanket when I tried to sand it off.
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22 hours ago, blackrose said:
All the old cream is being changed to grey. Just got the cabin sides, gunwales and top planks to paint on both sides now so here's hoping for a few more weeks of good weather.
Looks nice! What paint did you use?
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One must also assume that there is sufficient depth of water at the bank. Has the OP checked?!
Morso 1412 - Baffle Removal
in Boat Equipment
Posted
There's an exploded diagram here: https://www.harworthheating.co.uk/downloads/Parts %26 Exploded Diagrams/Morso/Wood %26 Multifuel/SQUIRREL 1400 1410 1412 1416 1430 1440 1442 1452/ which might (or not) be better than yours. (That's a good site for finding stove diagrams, they cover many makes).
Martin/