W+T

Hate doing windows I am thinking on using a different method to reseal these. i have cleaned them back, well two of the 12 if you include the flybridge windows. I usually use the rubber U channel and felt runner seals but this time i am thinking on just using either a High Modulus sealant adhesive or a Low Modulus one. OR Butyl that i use to fit the frames into the boat. Gun grade here though not strip. I love the Puraflex 40 as its as good as the Sikaflex 291i and half the price and has been great over the years. I know it will be a pain in the **** to remove the glass from the frame in the future , but that should only have to happen if the window gets broken, in over 30 years i have never had a broken window on a boat. So maybe no reason not to use HM sealant. i say this as i have a load of Puraflex 40 here. I have the Butyl aswell but i dont like the idea of that alone a st doesnt set very much. Then though its great for sealing in the frames to the boat. Decisions decisions hey ha ha OMH to think 10 windows to go AAARRRRrrrrrrrr Ok done an hour or so and stressing so chill time. Going t be a looooong weekend ha ha. Oh and i have done something else different. I have always drilled and tapped these frame brackets. this time i am trying the drill/tap screws. these are not Tek or Easy Drive just cheap ones of ebay. lot less faffing about. Made a grind bar to get them to length. just the drill tip sticks a bit much, mite be ok but dont want to risk it against the glass edge. the heads are few mm wider than the original screws so these will be countersunk abit more later. so this one is near done but for messing up a bit with the last three brackets. thats where i stopped an dleft it. learnt how to walk away when getting stressed and not throw a spanner, or a window ha ha I have let my mooring go down Wales and goig to stick it on the canal agaim where i was last. it has access to Glasson Dock and the sea, this way its a 65 mile trip to Isle of Man or a 100 mile to Llandudno. good trips ahead if i get it done.

This transom shield or plate had to come off. Jut needed to find out what was going in underneath it. Not top hard a job once the drive collars were removed. I am tempted to sand blast these to get them smart aswell as the drives then teat them . th epain was the dam screws, some came out some didnt so just drilled them out enough to get the plate off. i am a little surprised as the timber seems ok on quick look over. and the laminations on it. ill tap test it later to see. And it doesnt look to have anew outer skin either. So thinking ahead here. if when i have tap tested it etc etc and its good i will either see how the collars fit as is and just put them back as they should be or use smaller stainless shields for each drive just a bit larger than the drives and following the profile. Can i show my motivation a si have been so motivated since i found this pic of where we want to take it for a few weeks or months once we have trialed it at the mooring we have for it. just ;love that place. Thought i would try and cheer myself up a bit and see ifi can get my back side into gear so an update, it helps at times to look back n this stuff. Its beena while this and got very little done, due tio health and frozen shoulders and eye hemorrhage a couple of month ago so lost a fiar bit of site in my good eye this has been a task in itself. so if spelling is bad its becuase i am sick of editing lol. Well as left off i have fishind the workshop off and all good to go. thes ewindows i removed last autum i think. And had a go at polishing them up. easy enough as last time but quicker as this time i just used the DA and 120g pads then 1st and 3rd satge on the polisher. Before and after, if i could i could get them all done in a day Going to get some Autsol to keep them shiny near as dam all the brackets are either snapped or needd drilling out so i made a jig on the flypress to make things easier will get them done a bit at a time as when i have patience. I have been debating as what to do with the engiens. as i am sad to say i have let the mooring i had go at Port Dinorwic on the Menia straits. Only due to not being able to drive now and it dosnt look good on time and how my eyes will be. BUT no fear i can and plan to put it on the Lancaster canal and i can still gte down as i wish, a quick days cruise cruise about 100 mile down the coast and be reat I was thinking no pint in have two big engines and stuck on the canal but then i can gte to the sea down the Glasson branch off the Lancaster canal to have fun. It was either that or get rid of the boat and no chanc ei want to do wthat. Another thing is thinking on when to sell the trailer its on, got some good moeny in that to help the boat funds along. Maybe even my tow car, no really needed now. Soon be updating with engien rebuild, going to do it myself if i can get digital verniers etc. should i do a full on rebuild or whats needed.....need to chekc the engines over first i reckon and decide. Cant believe its goin gto cost around £350 to get a machine shop just to look it over to see what needs doing.

Oh yes the pistons, most of the rings were jammed in as the piston are aluminium and slight corrosion held the rings in place. so untill i get down and dirty with them to get a closer look who knows So plan is, engines will be left to one side untill i decide what to do with them, either rebore or not. there not to bad on one engine. worst bore being just 3 Thou out of ovality. all have a few thou taper. Anyway there the winter project. So plan is, engines will be left to one side untill i decide what to do with them, either rebore or not. there not to bad on one engine. worst bore being just 3 Thou out of ovality. all have a few thou taper. Anywya there the winter project. SO now i can crack on with the windows and transom. We got out two windows as third was stopped due to rain. Doing one side at a time. These are going to need a good amount of new brackets making. There in aright old state. rainy day work these. Atleast now i can work out what seals and how much is needed. upto know its standard 9.6mm x 12/15mm x 5mm channel seals and flocked runners. even the P seals are standard all be worth it

I couldnt wait so i finished the engine stand and cracked on with the dodgy engine. From the start i thought it was Hydrolocked and i was right. Only thing that got me thinking otherwise was the solid steel clunk of it when it locked up. And here we have a bit of a damp cylinder or two. No other damage i can see, engine turns over fine now, no resistance. So as soon as i can ill take the head to be crack tested and see how that goes. Then sort a shopping ;list out for the rebuilds. Things are looking good for the dodgy engine. As we had this head off it i found the first exhaust valve seat past repair but for fitting a new valve seat. And with all the rest of the head a bit naff i decided to get another. This is alot better and came off a running engine that somebody is breaking, MMmm maybe i should of bought the full engines ha ha. so from this to the new to me head So next il get that stripped and cleaned up and check the valves, infact i have checked one already and it well within the tolerances. And next mage bonus is the drive plate that is looking not to good. Well got one from the same chap These buggers go for around £400 and this one a bargain at £50 happy days. And why finish there. this was the state of the bores. I took it to an engine shop as they said they would take a look and see whats what. And after a short few minutes with a honing tool then a flexible one they look good. So when i get the bore gauge ill check them out for sure. I will be repainting the engines and got some stripper to have ago with, what a waste of time this one is. I just wish i could use my sand blaster but thats not the best way to go is it. and it wont work with soda so ts either get it dipped or wire brush it. Oh yes on this project for the first time ever i am going to keep a cost sheet. I did for a while on the ;last boat but when it got well into the £000`s i stopped. Just curious if i will break even on this one as the other i near did, and could of but wanted a quick sale to get this boat. . The other day T gave me a hand again starting to remove the windows for refurbing. removing. We got one out, and what a faff. I was glad though as we managed to save near all the inner wooden frame. I think its Teak so i will replace the rotter sections. I have a steam bender here so if needs must and we find a rotten curved section i can make a replacement. No wonder there were leaks from the windows, they near fell out. Better stock up on the Butyl tape Love of my life

Most definately, and to go with i wont be using him again. To many inspectors like this though and dont bother about serious wrong doings on boats. Aslong as i know we are safe i am happy, and get a BSC of course ha ha.

Good idea, and to tell the truth i never even thought to email the BSS office. Tis came about as i dont really like the cheap chinese stuff. Thing is we cant really get away from it unless we buy Planner etc. And after researching for a long time now on te cheapo heaters and as i have one in my workshop and its not much use in there i thought i would stick it int he boat. Research found alll sort of ideas/thoughts/comments on how and where they can and cant be fitted. So i contacted the BSS examiner i last used and he said they cant be in the main cabin at all, AS he says they are not room sealed, which they are. Ten he sent me a link to the BSSC sent to all BSS examiners, In the end i got to the point in telling him that these heaters are room sealed. which then he said some are and some are not. Yet have i to see one that is not room sealed. anyway, all sorted now.

yes a cheapo diesel one.

I will be surprised they fitted a cheapo chinese thing if from factory/new as they usually fit a better make. EDIT sorry just zoomed in to see its an Airtronic.

All it`s for is better safety, i agree that, the items that come with the heaters are rubbish towards better makes for marine use and like Planner Erber`s etc provide, I cant see the new regs changing too soon but will be according to the info i got. They could be like thye were with old LPG cookers and if it was fitted from suc a date ten they still will pass, but if fitted after such a date they need to be fitted with the better fittings and in correct place etc. All i know now and what i was after is i can fit one in the cabin in a sealed locker and will pass the BSS. I will be fitting it wit marine fittings and parts though. Not te ceap rubbish the heaters come with.

All but cookers and hobs, fridges, heaters etc to be room sealed. sorry confused you.

Yes cookers and hobs are permitted, imagine if there were not ha ha Nice work fitting the heater

@Mad Harold this s from the BSSC So they say you can use most the rubbish the units come with, for now. Best to fit them wit the proper marine kits though from the start. Coincidentally, this very subject was a main topic of conversa;on at a BSS Technical Commi?ee mee;ng last Tuesday. The BSS is aware that products like this are currently flooding the market and has agreed to work with other interested par;es such as Trading Standards and Bri;sh Marine to review their acceptability. However, as an interim posi;on, BSSTC has provisionally agreed the following: 1. Examiners may accept unmarked plas;c fuel tanks (wherever located) connected to diesel heaters and stoves provided they have an capacity of no more then 10lt and appear to be of proprietary manufacture (e.g. they look like they were manufactured for use with such appliances) 2. Examiners may accept unmarked plas;c/nylon fuel lines (including the very short sec;ons of hose), connec;ons, plas;c filters, etc (wherever located) provided they appear to be of proprietary manufacture (e.g. they look like they were manufactured for use with such appliances) In addi;on: 3. The tanks and the fuel lines must be in good condi;on with no signs of damage or deteriora;on, missing components, or leaking fuel. If such issues are found then record a fail at the appropriate Check 4. The tank must be securely installed. If it’s not then record a fail at 2.5.1. 5. The fuel lines must be adequately secured so that they are not pulling on their connec;ons. If they are not adequately secured then record a fail at 2.10.3. 6. All fuel line connec;ons must be as specified at Checks 2.11.1 and 2.11.2, other than pipes are not required to have formed ends where connected to hose. 7. All connec;ons must be securely installed (including filters, pumps etc), and if not a fail can be recorded at 2.11.3. However, it is accepted that there may be some movement where such connec;ons/components are connected to hose or plas;c/ nylon lines. Also, the Examiner must inform the boat owner, preferably in wri;ng, that the current acceptance of unmarked diesel tanks of up to 10lt capacity and the acceptance of unmarked, unspecified material, fuel lines is an interim posi;on and that such materials may not comply with BSS Requirements in the future. Over the next few weeks all Examiners will be contacted by the BSS regarding the above, but in the mean;me you may Examine the boats in ques;on using the above approach. not my rules, its the BSS.

That should fail as it is not room sealed if it draws air from the cabin. combustion and exhaust should both come and go from the outside. Not that i am saying dont use it, just goes to show that some examiners are wrong. all appliances should be room sealed now.

Thats is just i cant find it anywhere stating they can not be used in the cabin. Although a good few examiners say they can not be used in the cabin and only in engine bays or sealed locker on deck. And to put an already to this, the examiner i am emailing about tis has now stated `Not all Chinese heaters take air from the outside. Some draw from the space the occupy. This is the problem - there are lots of variants available and some can meet to BSS requirements and some won’t. ` which is as far as i am aware again, they all work in the same way and are room sealed. I have yet to see one of these heater draw air from te locker it is in. On examiners, not all but they are out there, i have worked on all kinds of customers boats for years and i have seen some scary stuff that has passed a BSS.

Ok here is an odd one to me, and would like if somebody can explain it to me, i am speaking to a BSS examiner about this at the and he is not explaining, but then they are like dodgy MOT inspectors anyway. I want to fit the heater unit in the main cabin in its own sealed locker, have a 20l tank next to the main petrol fuel tank under rear deck and all fittings will be decent ones, not the naff they come with. Which can be used on an interim time whilst the BSS is updated on these units. These units are sealed, the same as the Propex HS200, and the Propex can be in the cabin in an unsealed locker/cabinet. Both the LPG and Diesel heaters draw cold air in and blow out warm heated are into the main cabin. Both units draw in and exhaust combustion gasses into and out the boat. But the diesel heaters are not allowed into the main cabin at all, even in a sealed locker. What am i missing but for the BSS a bit crap with things. C Faffer

A few have asked about this so watch this space, mite update it later, not a great deal done but some things are getting there

Also @Littlegrebe If your on the [place i love to hate me and a mate got a group started. You will get loads of help on there from like minded folk as its for cabin cruisers, although sewer tubes pop in now and then. https://www.facebook.com/groups/698262477574021

@Littlegrebe Didnt think this would still be here. Not looked but a lot of piccs mite of gone now.

Same old place this, i stopped coming on here a long time ago as it has to many folk that think they know it all and up there own backsides. I didnt loose out on this boat i last built, i soll it for what it cost me. Had fun along the way, the main point. If the OP wants any help just ask, ill try and stick around for a bit

Here we gooooo Today at last engines are out I had to widen the gantry first to got it around the boat as it was about 50mm to narrow. but doing this also made it higher, so now able to move the gantry over the boat instead of around which would of been a pain in the arse. .To make it easy to do i used U bolts to hold one end and then welded the other end then slid the U bolted end to the end of the new too RHS beam. then plated the sides to beef it up more and welded in two lengths of 50x6mm bar to make the trolley track It didnt take to long to get them out but if we first had the correct angle on the first engine it would of been quicker.I am still shocked that they are held in place with just six M8 bolts around and no engine mounts but just through the transom. This is a mate that gave me a hand as still struggling so that was very much appreciated I have made a couple of engine stands aswell for them. I started to strip down the dodgy engine so i could sort eh stand mounting hole pattern, and found this in the drive plates. Think i need to replace these Ill finish tomorrow the stands and then get stripping this one down.Hey i have a mooring incentive now BIG TIME

Time for an update here i think. Now then that transom plate. I think its aluminium. At the minute its part or a transom repair. It has been done well but not properly or thery wouldnt of plated it if it a repair. It has been donw a while ago i reckon, has been resined over aswell. On the inside you can see where it has been sort of done. Original gussets kept inplace. Still not the best repair IMO for this kind f boat. I dont know why but for a soggy back end has been replaced some time. The repair is solid from i have found up to now. I think they have cut out the bad and added new and then instead of laminating over the repair on the outside they have plated it. or done both to save doing a good finish.That will be found out once the drives are off and i remove the plate to see behind as to what has been done.The windows i am looking forward to doing,They are trimmed on the inside with a hardwood frame that the all frames bolt to. I hope i can save the curved section as save me steaming more frames up.I think its just a matter as other windows i have done, strip back clean reseal then stick um back in, Only pain is if the screws on the frame brackets are seized. aslong as i can get the screws out be reat, i can make new brackets.Soo full steam ahead Ok i think i have decided first steps on this project.I need the engines out first, then to lift the boat off the trailer. I built this gantry last year for something and as it goes its about 50mm to narrow to get over the stern of the boat. I cant expect anything less hey. So plan, widen it by 600mm this will give enough room to also lift the boat after engines are out. I say lift as in stern first and chock and prop then the 3/4 way down to the bow. and same as And well, i ma still struggling to do things but bit by bit i am doing stuff. Plan is to get he engines out first but i need to widen the gantry first to get it over the stern to lift them out. I was going t o mod the gantry today but not doing good so i started on these props for when its lifted.Easy enough. I used some old large axle stands and got mini Acro`s along with some fittings we make at work that are scrappers. so bin diving it was in t he works scrap bin.[ Trim here and there Thes eare the fittings i got out the scrap bin, slight modification of the base plate and weld it back up. Just slit it with a laser cutting blade Then these go in the end of a tube welded onto the axle stand to create apivot. .Then ply pad yet to be covered. And there we go. Ill do the others as and when but i really want to get the engines out next.so going slow but atleast its keeping me going Now i am not one for bodging but with how things are i was tempted to use a wood hardener to fix some rotten areas. So after work today i though i should go in with a screw driver and chisel in hand and see what we are looking at close up.And to my joy its not as bad first thought. The main bulkhead is rotten though and will be coming out and replacing with either new ply or GRP one.The rest is all but for a few square inch which is rotten at bottom of a cupboard.this is the bulkhead, rotten through also at the bottom Now the rest you will see is just the top veneer that has come away where the condensation has got to it. Once the veneer was removed Feel real motivated now Me and T will see what we can get done now asap. if i could get the starter motors off i would try the engines in situ but to painfull so they are defo coming out to be set up and sorted.bring on 2022 I got the drives off this weekend. i didnt get many pics sorry as struggling.I wanted to run the engines with drives fitted but as one engine is locked and the other i just couldnt be bothered i just removed the drives in time to remove the engines asap.Drives feel good, select gear easy and no play to be found in them.Although these are in not bad nick but for the flaps they will be replaced with new as all other stuff.Up to now all bolts come out easy...ish. I have a shopping list here for all new engine bits n bobs for these Fury engines but first i will be getting the Merc OM636 running and selling that on in running order now. Sick of folk asking about it and offering scrap money. So if i sell that then that will fund the rebuild of the AQ130`s.

there is actually one on there that i was going to buy but its been ruined with an outboard conversion to a 15hp yammy.

Its my MiniGin ha ha ha i have sooo many available appointments now no longer self employed, its great lol. feel free

Ill try the damp proofing ideas i used when going swamping off road cars in the past lol. One being a marigold over the dizzy cap lol.

As a few are interested here we go on anew thread of my new project it got a few month ago.Its a1975 MK2 Fairline Fury. running twin VP AQ130`s and 270 drives. Good performance aswell from this size boat i reckon. I know fuel econmy, well there is no economy at 20mph guzzling 12GPH, but then wher do you fly aroud at them speeds every time you go out. Max speeds are 35mpg at 16GHP. I bought myself a Shpgun as the tow car due to plans is to have it in different areas each season. Tows it well and with the train weight being 5569kg they boat weighs in at around 2200kg a sin the pics. Its new resting place untill i hope summer 2022 while we do the work on it.Bonus as boat came on a SDS 3500 trailer. I just love the set out of these boats, good size front twin or double berth and small loo. nice size galley with good eating chill out area. All the with a semi flybridge aswell with seating for two. and along side bathing area.Cider hatch from galley up to the bridge Since we have had it we havnt done a great deal. Started to remove the deck fittings to be re chromed and last week had ago at the engines.Once the starters were removed and one fixed i got the Now P side turning over fine. but the ST side is free anti clockwise but no so free clockwise in the direction these engines run. It lock up solid with no boince back at all. After some faffing about i think its jamming between the UJ and the G box. So maybe this weekend i will start looking at removing the drive or atleast disconnecting it frmt he engine to see how it goes then. Very odd how it hand cranks one way but not the other unless T is at the helm and twitching th remote back and forth. This give a slight clockwise smooth movement.Oh i have found some good news and time money saving on the interior as i did plan or rippig out and a complete refit. But now