W+T
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Posts posted by W+T
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21 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:
I'll give you five weeks before you start fettling it ... A week up and down the Lanky and you'll have it back at your workshop!
You still dont know me hahaha. I already have plans to faffing.
Only add moor leisure batteries and new cooker, Solar Fish finder. and a few alterations T is wanting on decor. just some of the cushion covers.
I have a mooring on Blackleach for winter only as we can atleast us it over winter and get to the sea buy Glasson Dock a few good days to get our sea legs.
I do want it home a few weeks before sea launch for a few weeks to fit a rear platform for boarding at the mooring down Wales and the Sonar.
Lanky is nice but rubbish at same time. to shallow and full of moaners.and folk that wont do anything but moan.
I have offered to help build a weed dredger and asked for folk to help some folk willing to but most are ignorant. i dont even use the bloody canal but love it. if folk are not botered then leave them to it. Thats the short of it.
So will be winter inland and summer at sea
8 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:Very pretty boat. Are you going to just use this one and enjoy it? What are you going to do with the remains of the last one?
There must be a limit as to how many GRP boats you can bury in your garden.
Defo, keep and enjoy it. mite be me getting lazy or just seen a dam good bargain, bit of both maybe. Other is for sale, if it dont ill do more work to make it useable to help sell it easier. not decided on if to fit the rebuilt engines i have done or keep the ones from this boat.
And i next few years we are after a liveaboard so who ever buys this house i hope they like boats as there digging up a lot
8 hours ago, BilgePump said:Ah, that explains why I saw your first one back up for sale recently. Glad to know that it's being sold to be replaced by the new one. The Furies have really elegant lines. Have fun with it, but like was noted above I bet you find something you can't resist fettling within the first few weeks!
Oh yes a diesel cab heater will be fitted. And a fridge, all usual stuff i guess to get it as you want. Need to keep the Cider cold
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For those of you following, betetr let you know its no longer going to be done this one.
Reason i got an offer i couldnt say no to due to crazy price. being not much more tan a new canopy for this boat. and this canopy is only 10 month old.
Same boat but a MK1 and all ready to go. same engines but AQ115 not the AQ130, but i will keep them and may fit them at a later date as they are rebuit. along with the drives as the new boat has the smaller AQ drives.
so all off boating again soon, will be collecting this in four weeks, and cant bloody wait
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4 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:
Have you been on a 35ft x 12ft Broads boat?
They are absolutely cavernous.
You will have more choice in the sub 40ft length bracket that the 40ft plus length bracket.
An example of what they can fit into a sub 40ft hull. This one is 33ft x 12ft. Has 3 cabins, 2 en-suite, decent galley and decent saloon as well as internal helm and external helm on the flybridge.
https://www.boatshed.com/faircraft_33_hydroflow-boat-324364.html#boatmedia-65
I wouldnt fancy that as a liveaboard Rach. for that money aswell i could find more suitable boats for a livaboard.
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10 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
If you think DC stands for Dawncraft than I suspect the add is wrong. I don't know for sure but I am sure those boats that we had on the fleet had nothing to do with Dawncraft the canal cruiser builders. It seems it is a Broom hull, although Dawncraft might have bought the moulds.
Yes i was talking of DC as in NB cruisers.
9 hours ago, CIEL said:These Sancerres are very popular on the River Great Ouse - understand they were originally built for the Broads.
https://www.jonesboatyard.co.uk/boat-sales/sancerre-33-boat-for-sale-7430.html
You may well find a "project" one at the boatyard at Roxton under the A1 trunk road bridge - Kelpie Marine.
It seems to have been sitting there for years gradually deteriorating. The name "Starting Ova" comes to mind.
11ft beam and relatively low air draught for 33 ft length. Hydraulic drive.
Chris
still not long enough, nice boats though
there are plenty out there to look for. i always keep and eye open on my travels when working out and about the yards and marinas 
9 hours ago, Bacchus said:It's Dawncraft of Wroxham - a completely different company from Dawncraft the narrow GRP builders, and the DC30 is certainly not a narrow-beam. Yes, Broom hull, and a very excellent one too - the DCs were fitted by Broom, Dawncraft, and Aquafibre, probably amongst the best of the single-level cruisers but the OP seems to know better.
?????
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3 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:
Going for over 40ft will greatly reduce your choices.
its what is wanted though, no point going second best. if we dont find a 40+ Aquafibre or similar broads cruiser then it will be another type of boat.
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9 hours ago, Bacchus said:
Cheap Broads-style cruiser project on the Duck at the moment @W+T
https://www.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/dawncraft-dc30-for-sale/739251
I quite like the DC30s, they have a cute "face". And the hull must be one of the most versatile ever moulded, used in the (ubiquitous) Broom 30, Broom Skipper, and the Dawncraft/Aquafibre/Broom DC30. One of my neighbours has a 30 which has crossed the channel a number of times as a support boat with the ADSL and navigated a huge portion of the French Canals.
Don't know whether it has a weed-hatch though...
i would be getting atleast a 40 footer with 10 foot beam, preferable 12 foot, which i think all the 40-44 footer are 12 anyway. I am not into DC either and also all narrow beam.
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8 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
A point re DIY weed hatches on flat floor Broads cruisers. I have a feeling that you may well find that the rear bulkhead is more or less above the prop. That may complicate things somewhat, so try to get a look at a few contender designs.
I have been trying to find tat out Tony. I like the look of the Aquafibre 44 but unable to see any pictures or info. so tanks for that. When i have a few weekends free ill go out and look at a few on the dry if i can find some. O my struggle also at it seems not many around for my 10-15k budget.
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5 minutes ago, Bargebuilder said:
Well worth the trouble, you'll be so glad you did I recon.
Dont see as trouble, i see it as fun then haha. Trying to decide on drive now, shaft is good but less control than OD ond IB.
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49 minutes ago, Bargebuilder said:
There can be an issue, if you buy a boat not designed for the canals to use on the canals, such as a Broads cruiser.
Perhaps there isn't a problem with old fertilizer bags, items of clothing etc, let alone excessive weed growth on the Broads, hence why such boats don't always have weed hatches.
I'd feel very vulnerable on the canals without one, as the water doesn't often look very inviting.
exactly my point, i am building this boat for canals and rivers so be daft not to make a weed hatch while i can .
i have been in a few times while working and wasnt pleasant.
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I like to think common sense will prevail as in the weed hatch situation.
If anybody was to build a boat or get one built to be used on a canal common sense would say fit a weed hatch. Why not if done properly ? I would rater and i am sure anybody would rather use a weed hatch than scuba gear or poke around wit luck wit a pole.
Canals are dumping grounds even more nowadays. so to make a cruise more of a joy then you need to make it so.
It doesnt matter if a boat didnt have this ort that when it was built. If the owner wants an addition to make thigs better then why not.
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7 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:
A quick dip in the water or hiring the services of the local dive centre.
We never thought that would be such a problem if I'm honest.
for the cost tough to get somebody to come out to remove a plastic bag seems daft wen you can do it yourself with a weed hatch. and amount of time we have had prop fouled is ridiculous. thats on the L&L and Lancaster.
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5 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:
Keep it simple. The drive system it has will have worked fine for the last 30-40 years. Don't change it.
So how is prop fouling sorted
Main thing for me to keep and inboard is power for charging and calorifier.
I am just talking about wat pops in my head lol. all sorts, it scares me still haha
2 minutes ago, BoatinglifeupNorth said:Funny thing, only chatting to a guy with a broads cruiser yesterday., he said it was an issue not having a weed hatch and having to get into the canal to clear the prop every time was a pain.
I would defo add one if i got one tat needed it.
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8 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Looks ideal
we would want min 40 footer. sliding top on that i would make fixed and extend to make a larger wheel house.
Atleast there about when it comes. poss next year, depends on when we diced to start it. got this boat to finish and enjoy first.
6 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:Looks suspiciously cheap!
see a couple that cheap, but only 35 footers.
i get you though. still should get a shell for £10-£15k
Like i do
all this control is bad with shaft drive in reverse etc etc. but good on outdrives both ways just risky with outdrives
Maybe convert to outboard-inboard. So like some Dawncraft, Outboard fitted inside the transom. could do that easy enough.
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just mooching and found this, almost prefect project for me. and price
https://www.rightboat.com/boats-for-sale/bourne/40-2dfdb695-19bf-43dd-9896-01a3474069be/rb477999
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I didnt know they had weed hatches. if the have weed hatches then that makes life more easier. as said canals are full or crap. canals i have been on we got prop fouling near every cruise we went out on.
I get your points on outdrives. if i did go that way i would have refurbed fitted as in VP 270/280 etc. adaptors made to suit. Outdrives are as good as the maintenance given i reckon.
If i found one on shaft then i would make a weed hatch if it was possible with the position the prop is in.
trying to find the setup for the common type of drive set up. which as Tony Brooks says is transverse engines and hydraulic drives.. just to see about weed hatch etc for prop fouling
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I agree that would be a problem on a broads cruiser. I would rater get a shell and rebuild it. therefore i would use PIR foam in either board where i can or spray. I can always if need be fit DG windows, block up a few even depending on design/set out of windows. I find PIR foam the best of all insulation when fitted properly that is.
Engines i would rather an outdrive than shaft. saves space and easier when prop fouled.
The bigger the project the sooner it will be bought aswell.
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Hi all.
Looks like in the not so sure future we will be going it full time afloat. Just planning ahead as i could be getting the boat in next year or so and doing it up to our spec over time. depending on the boat a shell will be fine.
Anyway, not mad on narrow boats, wide beam yes but to costly looking at wide beams and we have been looking at a few Broads cruisers. Not in the real but looking at prices and whats about. can get them at good prices.
Main question here is that we will be staying up north and CC`ing. I spoke to just a couple of folk many years ago who had them on the L&L, from Leigh to Blackburn, and said they were ok cruising etc etc just depth was shallow in places. Not a clue though on which boats they had though a sit was so long ago.
Have many folk got experience of the northern region with broads cruisers and size.
C Faffer
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21 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:
You should be happy enough if you've been sniffing glue all day! 😀
Keep 'em coming Wayne, I can't do that standard when I've not been sniffing solvents ....
I`m happy kida. just me being piccy. and i miss the resin snifter, but not the bleedin itchy part of it haha
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Dont know wat all the fuss was about. Ah there wasnt any lol.
As last seen bulkhead was removed. Now i have fitted a new one
I was happy to start with on Friday i picked up the Marine ply, 18mm two full sets at £157, bargain. That wood yard is best in Bolton. If not Manchester.
I havnt been faffing with boats for a couple years now due this and that but i never throw away, which is good as all the other materials i had int shed. Poly/Epoxy resin, woven, CSM and resins, and all inbetween so saved a fortune here. One thing i am near out of you will guess later.
OK this H is doing me head in and sick of editing the post so please burrr with as i keep dropping H`s.
I know it was a good price and need a 2.5m x 2m area covered i made as much of this ply as possible.
Had to order some Puraflex 40, my choice of adhesive as its excellent and same ingredients as Sika 291i. Just Toolstation had to get it delivered as out of stock, which it didnt turn up so i bought more from a TS further away and went to collect it. hey ho an hour wasted already haha.
Now this is my trick of the trade for templating anything needed to be ...well templated
Basting tape. real good double sided tape used in sewing mainly. And no so new acetone. down to my last 200ml i reckon. if tat.
just stick the tape all around the edge to be templated
Where in some you will have your murder scene. Dont worry i am still alive, T still loves me.....tab god
And then i marked out the cutting edge wit perm marker.
trim the polythene but leave a few inch/75mm
then you can place it over sheet and get it were you want before trimming back, just so you know your sheet is big enough.
trim back to line, mark around wit marker and cut ply. CUT tough inside the marker line on ply as tat is the cut line needed.
it needed a wee fettle to get fitted and like a idiot i am i cut to much off one edge, but easy sorted. You dont need to see that bit lol.
ok the bit i cut to much out to fit snug
The gap the the Portside is were the sheet maxes out on width. no problem as will make a new bit to fill tat.
Rest is the same,
I was wanting to add Spead Toe Carbon Fibre but i couldnt find any wide enough and no patience.
So now i used poly resin with added styrene for three coats, first being 5% last being 2%. then lay up of one lam of 350grm CSM.
you can see in that pic i chamfered the edges in a few places to give a good area for connecting the boards together.
I fixed the new bulkead in with Puraflex40 along the top and side down to the gunnel with 20mmx8mm SS screws. .
Here you see the camfer i did where needed. to be filled wit CSM and woven. then a topping off wit filler.
So set to work tabbing in the bottom and sides upto gunnel.
Not that you can see , i did five layers of a mix of CSN and woven. good and strong.
One thing though i messed up wit rushing was that i wanted the joints to be epoxy and filler but as i used poly resin/CSM the flowcoat will not stick. so i used Poly resin a through. still do the job though.
I cant remember now which filler this is but i usually use it wit epoxy but as said i am only using Poly resin i tried it and works fine to fair in the joint. Not tat it needs it as it will not be seen ans its below deck. But still
it will do, its not my best as used t be OCD, now i just want it done.
Last bit for the last two days is Flowcoating it. I found about 2l int she and as its old i thought i should test it first. And to my joy it is fine Just gave it a good mix
I gave it a single thick coat then when is was greening off i used the rest.
I will polish it back next week wen fully set in.
It looks out of place now wit te boat. now ill need to polis te boat back up to match
I have two more windows to refurb whic i will as and wen as no rush so mainly ill be getting te fuel tank back in and rear deck. which i hope leads the deciding on the starter battery calorifier homes.
Captain Faffer singing out as shattered now and need a cider
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Oh go on ten my few quids worth....and i wnat paying for this advice. ill sen don details
See boating starts to coast straight away
lol
I have done a few boats, being cruisers as i am not into narrow boats yet. when i retire if i make it after faffing with boats most my life.
You dont exactly say what type of boat. but in reality all cost same for footage. My last boat build in the previous link to the small GRP cost me around £5k, its a full on rebuild and i sold it to a couple who still live on it after 2 years of ownership. That was some graft and took some 5 years with a couple of winters off it , but i enjoyed it, think i still do. that was a real basket case plant pot as you can see if you looked at it.
Another thing, are you going to do it all yourself ?, are you a competent DIY`er ? which is all that is needed for a GRP boat IMO. Now a steel boat is more involving to repair, can you weld, if not it will cost a good amount, a few £Ks to get a good welding rig and accessories etc to just weld up the boat where needed.
I have worked on many boats lots of my own and others. it is hard work which i gather you are ok with but wat about time ?
Just a few things tat to consider.
I would look at it as something you enjoy doing and IF you get it complete dont expect to gain money back but the buzz from doing it and what you have accomplished.
Some say dont get a project, in a way i sort of agree, only part of me is puddled and i just get stuck in and do what i want to do, maybe get a boat usable first off if your new to it and see if you like boating. then either sell that one or get a one that is more to your liking. Just consider costs. say a small max 25 GRP cruiser. around £50pm for HS or even mooring, and lot more if you go in a bling marina as much as £1.5k, and an NB well take your pic as some are ridiculous.
Where you boat is kept can be a BIG contribution to you finishing it. If its near home easier if you have to travel say even half hour away it can be a killer of the project. even kept on your door step its hard work.
In all there is a lot to think about and take on for a newbi. but if like me and your a bit dolally then sod it and just go for it.
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Have a spare hour so why not update this thing.
A week or so ago i decided to get my arse into gear and remove the bulkhead. Probably the biggest job on the boat.
Not to bad a job really, due to the rot haha
Removing the rear deck is doing my head in though.
seat comes out easy but the blinkin deck is a pain. its a dam tight fit, harder than it looks
I have decided to ave te battery locker under the cabin seat. can fit atleast three in there. plenty for our use.
I got these props out incase the superstructure wobbled but, i think the shape of it helped, did not move at all. these props have come in many times on boat works. like three pairs of hands.
Thats the new battery locker on the right.
And a as easy as writing this it came out.
I quit like the open plan feel and if i was to want to ruin the boat i would keep it open lol.
Will hopefully be fitting the new one in a week or two. So glad my old timber supplies from my Boat Works is good to me and still letting me ave play at same price. Also ave a load of woven matt and resin still. just hope the resin is still good wit its shelf life. Got some Styrene somewhere aswell.
I am tempted still to so a carbon fibre outer skin on the bulkhead. A large Twill weave.
So still at it but slow due to work now and fitting a van out for weekends away a snot getting away much since i sold last boat.
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Hi all, i am still waiting for pics of the set up myself so i cant include them untill he sends me them.
All tis as BSS examiner said the glass water traps need to be replaced along with fuel lines as this boat has always been on the sea and is all original, its never been inland before so he had to do a few things to make to BSS standard. .
As soon i get the info back ill get back to you.
tanks for the help aswell, appreciate it:)
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I asked.him about that and if he had tighten the unions properly and yes he has. I wanted to remove them and check but didn't have time after the hassle we had.
This is the filter he used in exchange for the glass bowls.
It has to be the filter hasn't it.
18 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:That sounds more like an air leak into the suction side of the circuit if the glass bowl water trap is where they usually are. Seeing it may be a DPA pumps does the ENGINE filter(s) have a leak off pipe in the top? Otherwise, misplaced filter seals or an under or over tightened pipe union.
i asked him if the fittings into the filters are good and tight and he confirmed they are good. i was going to remove and check a refit them but didnt have the time.
ill tell him to remove and refit again the filters.
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On 05/04/2023 at 21:27, Tony Brooks said:
Almost certainly yes, top of the fuel filter and somewhere on the body of the injector pump, but the manuals and images I have found do not say where on the pump, in fact it mentioned CAV DPA or inline injector pumps, but the images I have seen look more like a vertical rotary pump, but not the common DPA. If no one else can help, post photos of the injector pump showing all around it.
Well i sorted it for him. to a certain extent as bot engines fired and ran fine. to the extent of them conking out after maybe 10mins. fuel loss, not getting to the primer. I bypassed the filters and ran spot on from a jerry can full, connect direct to the primer and it primed fine. So problem is between the off take pipe in the tank and the outlet of the filter. he checked he didnt leave a bung in the filter from factory fitting to see if that was stopping fuel getting through.
The engines were running great before the filter swap from glass bowled water separators and new fuel lines.
all i can think is the filters are not letting fuel flow enough, but he said there more than the flow needed.
thanks for the advice/help
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Captain Faffer is in a Fury now :)
in Build Blogs
Posted
How the hell are you, hey i havnt forgot i ow you a length of copper pipe
I think i have just got myself a mooring at Menai Bridge
need to sort my sea legs out asap haha