Bobbybass
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Posts posted by Bobbybass
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12 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:
You need to 'T' of flow and returns so you can balance the system, otherwise the first heat emitter will take all your heat and leave little for the remaining circuit. There may also be times when you may want to isolate parts.
I assume you have sized your circuit to be compatible with the boiler output.
I have read your post, but wonder how much thought you have given it.
Yeah..as someone who gave it lots of thought.. I knew people wouldn't think or understand..
Thanks all.
Subject closed.
Thanks for your input..
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5 hours ago, Detling said:
Another good reason, turn one off and they all go off.
Oh boy...I wish people would read posts !!!
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Hi all....
Here's a question about running my central heating pipes....so no " off topic".. about Brexit or pump out toilets please ?
When I have installed central heating pipes in a house....I run a feed and return and then connect radiators into it with 'T' fittings. That is so that when you turn off a radiator. .the whole lot doesn't block up. Bathroom radiators are locked on all the time.
I am fitting an Eber on my boat...into a small calorifier.. then a radiator which I never intend to turn off ..so it will have locked valves...then into 2 heat exchanger fan heaters.
Looking at that circuit I see no reason for 'T' connectors..... .just run them (like an electrical circuit) as series.....one to the other...rather than the 'parallel ' system .. like at home.
Does this sound feasible.....or is there a reason for not doing this ?
Thanks all.
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I have a diverter valve on my system. That is NOT a system like yours..... .but I thought if you had a change over valve on the hot outlets of your tanks...you could set it so that when the water temperature coming out of one tank drops.....it switches over to the other tank.
Maybe a little Raspberry pie board and a simple program to compare the tank temperatures … and operate the valve to draw water from the hottest one.
My system is not like yours. My boat has a large tank with only a single coil from the engine. That meant engine running in marinas.. I already had a small 3 gallon tank in my garage from another project...with single coil and a 1kw immersion. I installed that...so that when the immersion is powered from a land hookup, the diverter draws water from that tank.
I Siamese the cold inlets...and the pressure relief outlets...and fed the hot outlets through the diverter.
I'm amazed that the little tank heats really hot in 20 minutes and despite running off water for showers etc...the immersion keeps up with it.
Not like your system, but you can see where I'm going with my idea above.
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I recommend the Craftmaster Canauba...
I bought some for my last boat as it had a wonderful paint job....and it was excellent.
My current boat paint...is a load of cack….which I like as I no longer have to polish it...(no brass on it either..GREAT !! )
I now use up that Canauba on my 14 year old Mercedes...and it gets many admiring comments. I leave the car in marina for months and when I come back ..its as glossy as when I left it.
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Just now, Alan de Enfield said:
With a huge 'mane' requiring 15 minutes per day, it is about the same consumption as my Fridge. (25Ah per day)
Speak for yourself !.
I stick my head out of the hatch and it's dry in two minutes!
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Going back to my last post.
Energy saving bulbs...TV etc...
A hair dryer...is a short 'hit'...so not a great power discharge.
The main use of this immense battery bank and charging regime seems to be the washing machine ?.
Huge amounts of engine running ( maybe half a gallon ? ).. solar ..filling the water tank..and discharging plastic particles into our canals.
Is this really worth it ?.
This is a general question rather than criticism.
PS... I get plenty of run time for fridge...lights...and TV out of two 110 amp batteries..and they don't drop below 12.2 volts.
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We had a Travelpower on our last boat...for washing machine..hair dryer etc...plus running the battery charger from it.
We still gave up on the washing machine on most occasions...and used a laundry.
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I recently bought an old D5W that was from a BT van. I hacked the wiring and fitted a couple of fuses ..one for the switch and one for the heater.
Stuck the water inlet and outlet hoses into a bucket and a short length of fuel hose into a jam jar of diesel.
It fires up just fine.. doesn't need any pressure on the fuel line.
Once the switch is activated..it goes into the correct start up...water pump..air fan...and finally the tick tick fuel pump. Conversely..it does the correct shut down.
I'll fit that in the coming months.
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I like my diesel..
I like the sound of it..the smell of it...the sheer mechanics of it..and by the time it all goes tits up..I would have given up boating anyway..
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I was always told that the electrolyte should only be 1/4 inch above the plates ?. My previous batteries were great and lasted 5 years.
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MSC gauges don't like overloading. It usually blows the chip. If I recall ...they use a standard Op-amp.. possibly LM741 ?.. you can buy 5 on eBay for a quid. I fitted a 8 pin holder on the board so I could easily replace. The water gauge suffers the same problem. When on the Thames I used their hose which was a tight fit. The water pressure blew the chip.
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My mates who have this on their cars...have all disabled it.
As for cats...I cut the end off mine.. stripped it out..and welded it back together. Gained me lots of horsepower and still passed the MOT.
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Just spoke to Beta.
It should be ONLY ....ATF Dextron 2 or 3.
Service interval is up to you..but as it only holds 0.3 litre..it may as well be done every year.
Thanks everyone..
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Heck...now I'm confused..
Engine oil....ATF...now a Hypoid ??.
Plus...I still don't know the change intervals..
The plot thickens.. ( the oil does anyway ?)
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That being the case .... With my previous larger PRM gearbox that took engine oil..I changed it at about 500 hours.
As this is ATF does that mean less changes ?.
After all...you very rarely change ATF fluid on a car...
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Hi.. just gave my engine its first service.
Was going to pump out the PRM 120 and fill with the same oil as the engine.
Removing the gearbox dip stick I found it full of a red fluid..rather like auto gearbox fluid ,?.
Is that correct..?.
Thanks.
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2 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Thanks. Just out of interest you understand. Don't bother if it is a hassle, but if it is going on Ebay anyway...
The solder the pipe to a copper plate, then attach to the aluminium is a good idea to get excellent heat transfer. Not something I'd seen before. Copper sheet is expensive and aluminium is cheap, so minimising the copper is sensible.
The copper sheet was not expensive.. it was thin..so thin I could cut it with scissors.
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14 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Always seems like magic to me. How can this thing possibly get so hot! Who makes the controller you've got?
Jen
I'll dig it out of the garage and look... I'm going to whack it on eBay at some point anyway..
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38 minutes ago, robtheplod said:
I like the idea of the flood alarms, do you have any links to them?
They used to have them in Poundland and the Bargain shops. Loads on eBay. They're really sold for house use around washing machines etc.
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I have three CO detectors....one at head height in the lounge/kitchen where the cooker and fire are.
One at sleeping head height in the lounge and one at sleeping head height in the rear bedroom.
Three fire angels...which I like.
Once again... lounge near cooker/fire.
One in corridor.
One above the electrical switches/fuse panel rear which is inside a wardrobe.
I also fitted lots of cheap £1 flood alarms in various spots...under the bed with hidden pipes...under the kitchen sink...etc..
I put one in the engine compartment....put the sensor wires into a choc block connector and on the other side inserted two lengths of brass rod which go down into the bilge...so if it starts to fill at a pre-set point it sets the alarm off. Saved my last boat as some bad gates on the Wigan flight were flooding over the back deck and the scuppers couldn't cope...
I hadn't realised,
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7 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
Always seems like magic to me. How can this thing possibly get so hot! Who makes the controller you've got?
Jen
As you can see.....I soldered copper 'tags' to the copper pipe..and these were then bolted firmly to the aluminium plate...so maximum heat was passed into the pipe.
I sprayed it with matt black thermal paint (Halfords) ....then enclosed it in a box with glass on one side ( the non pipe side )..and roof insulation on the other with a layer of tin foil between the roof insulation and the pipe side..so sun heated the aluminium plate on the matt black painted side...and any that passed through the plate was reflected back.
It worked a treat.
I've since sold this boat and removed the 12 volt controller. Its in my garage..languishing..
It has two thermal sensors...one on the tank and one on the roof collector...the unit has a differential controller to stop it pumping your hot water up to the roof should the plate outside be colder.
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I made this collector.....10mm pipe. Couldn't believe how well it worked. Burnt my fingers while bleeding it on an overcast day !
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2
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Heating pipes
in Boat Equipment
Posted
The fans are Eberspacher and match the heater. They'll be left on ..low blow..setting all the time as it will only be run to heat for an hour or so in the morning. The radiators are to act as a " heat sink"..to give some consistency..
I had a 60 foot boat last time as opposed to my current 42 footer...used 15mm pipe...and only stripped and rebuilt the Eber once in 6 years..