Bobbybass
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Posts posted by Bobbybass
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I can't be definitive about this but :
last year I did a Thames run for two months.
Towards the end I was getting horrible acid indigestion and reflux.
It got worse and I was chewing my way through boxes of Rennies.
When I left the boat the problem carried on until one night I was ambulanced to hospital with a bleeding ulcer.
I stayed there for a week while it settled and tests concluded I was suffering from helicobacter pylori...a nasty but common infection often caught from contaminated water. It is the most common cause of ulcers.
As I said....not definitive...but timing wise I have my suspicions. 🤔
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On 22/09/2021 at 22:53, PeterF said:
Is that one fully sealed, the end caps only look like they are spot welded on not seal welded. OK for under a car or truck but not sure about a boat. Check to make sure.
My thoughts exactly...
You don't want your engine compartment filling with carbon-me-backside.
I'd put my hand over the outlet...and blow...and make sure it's sealed...
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Silly I know ....but :
it says charging and AC available....
I've got a manual landline switch over
i left my battery charger in circuit when i was not on the landline....and turning the Inverter on...starter charging the batteries. Trouble was...I was charging them from themselves...so it read 14.2 volts....but they were dying !.
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On 13/07/2021 at 17:16, Theo said:
My Smartgauge/Smartbank Advanced has worked faultlessly for the last 13 years. When I fitted my solar panels I asked Gibbo (the designer of SG) if I should annect the output of the controller to the engine battery/alternator's side of the relay. He said no, connect it to the domestic side. This I did and all worked well while we were living aboard.
When we stopped living aboard I relied on the solar panels to keep the batteries topped up and this they have done very successfull. I always return to Theodora to find the batteries at 100%. Except that the percentage refers to the domestic bank. The engine battery has not been charged and I have to use the emergency connect to sart the engine.
Questions: What is the reason for Gibbo's advice? If I connect the solar panels to the alternators/engine battery side will it not keep the engine battery topped up and then energise the relay to keep the domestics topped up?
Any thoughts?
Nick
When I leave my boat for a period of time...with only solar....I link both battery banks with some jump leads.
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I would have thought that running thrusters continually while in a lock...some being very slow....the batteries would be out before the boat 😄
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On 23/08/2021 at 17:51, David Mack said:
But this is a dump through. So there won't be any flexible piping between the toilet and the tank. The only pipe will be the pumpout pipe, and, if it has one, the vent pipe, both of which will be above effluent level and therefore shouldn't become vapour-permeable.
I had this with my pump out pipes and also the vent pipe that never got touched by anything.
I argued with Leesan that the dry vent pipe had gone porous and stank with a strange sweet odour...they said it couldn't. I cut a six inch section and posted it to them to smell..
They never replied.
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What you have to bear in mind about Vactan is that it's a rust converter. It converts the rust into a surface suitable for painting over. If you paint it over bare shiny metal it has no grip and will just form a skin which will flake off.
I've used it really successfully in the past by applying over rust...then lightly wire brushing the treated area before painting. I don't use it on non-rusty bare metal. That needs an acid primer.
Bob
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I have these...but I'm going to remove them when I do a repaint. They're not for me...
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I liked mine.......but had a second satellite tuner...... for when I couldn't get onto Astra for Sky.
Used to tune Atlantasat.....Eutelsat and six other satellites....
I once watched the Eurovision song contest in Albanian. !
How sad was that !!!!
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I had oil in the coolant on my Beta 43.
In my case the cooling for the PRM160 gearbox fluid (oil)..went into a brass tank which was inside the top coolant tank on the engine...a common situation.
What happens is that your engine coolant tank is only half full and thus there is a ',tide line' on the brass gearbox coolant tank. Over time..it corrodes along that line.
My engineer did source another tank.
On more recent models..you can blank that off and have external cooling.
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Easy water level gauge.
If it goes up my nose....it's full. ??
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There's a very low level fuse (1 amp) up near the on off switch. I should check that..
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I use a plastic collader....glued some magnets around the side...and put it inside one of those net filter bags that you use for making wine
I then dropped this into the tank over the outlet hose so that all the larger fragments don't get drawn through the pump.
The magnets hold it in place.
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18 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
A lot of boats, including mine, have a barometer aboard. An altimeter is just a barometer with a different scale under the needle, so effectively yes.
You need a barometer.
You can then tap it repeatedly and annoy the wife.....who says " if you want to know the weather..just look out the Bloody window !.?
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15 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:
No, a surface vessel.
This guy came to a stick end to his "boating" if I remember correctly.
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It is a surface vessel. He wouldn't get far if he tried to "dive...dive...dive"..
I think......he went bankrupt....?
I saw it for real some years back...moored at Botany mills . Very sinister.
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This one ?
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Couldn't you just buy one for a tenner,?
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9 hours ago, dmr said:
Like a trainspotter you could write the numbers down in a little black book. The modern way is to make an Excel spreadsheet and plot pretty graphs ?
I like that reply ?
I've often wondered why people on this site...do stuff like that ?
After all...in my opinion ( warning... Bob's opinions may vary from description)... It's all about cruising along looking at beautiful scenery.
Having said that...blokes always like to tinker and change/Invent stuff. Often when you view boats they have some daft but "essential" thing strapped onto them..the product of much boredom and winter blues.
A book full of graphs about how much sun the solar panels gathered on Christmas day...or some weird and wonderful combination of "must haves" strapped onto the alternator...
For me....I don't do anything other than change oil and filters and cruise through some of the most beautiful parts of England. My gadget-less boat won't be worth any less than the one with its own spreadsheet ???
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44 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
For AC stuff that makes little sense to me but happy to be educated. Until a hull bond is fitted you just have two lines and no "earth". One will only become a neutral one the hull/earth bond is made. Maybe its something to do with the magic box but I can't see it.
Maybe contact Steve Hand ..BSS and engineer...Burton area....he may explain better than me...
I have no idea of the ins and outs other than the original travel power instructions were for vehicles and not boats and that's where he said the problem lay.
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Don't shoot me...I'm just passing on what I heard
I had a travel power on my boat which was about 15 years old when I sold it.
It was a Reeves hull..and the base plate had a lot of nasty shiny deep pits
When I sold it...it had been surveyed by Steve Hand at Burton on Trent.
I went to do the hand over... and he was rewiring the Travel power.
I asked him why...and he said the original installation instructions had been wrong and as such the hull was in danger of corrosion.
He also said that there had been some cases where a boater had moored next to another travel power user...and suffered serious electric shock.
That is what he told me...and he said he was reversing connections.
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I fitted a system like that two years back.
I feed the Eber into calorifier then two radiators in the hall (all 22mm copper pipe) but don't have room for a radiator in the lounge area so fitted one of those water fed blow heaters ( your photo) under the seat and it works well. The fan part draws less than an amp at 12volt as I fused it with a one amp fuse.
I fitted a small radiator in the bathroom under the towel rail ... but also a second blow fan.
It heats it up a treat.
Really works well...much better than just a radiator as it throws the heat outwards.
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On 19/05/2021 at 20:17, Jennifer McM said:
There's a space under the bridge there where kids, and some not-so-kids, looked to be doing drugs, amongst them were some youngsters who looked (to me anyway) vulnerable. It didn't look good as some of the group were aggressive, so I phoned the police. Police said they knew what was going on.... I couldn't do any more
I thought you were going to suggest emptying the cassette there....to keep the kids away...?
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On 25/05/2021 at 13:19, manxmike said:
You could always hang a plastic container under the mushroom inside the boat, that way it catches the water drips but doesn't stop the air flow.
I did that.
Mine was just 'water bounce'
Hung polystyrene cups under the vents.
Worked great.
Thames - Water Points. Changes to drinking and bulk water supply points.
in Waterways News & Press
Posted
As I said previously.....I was ok for about five week on the Thames.. couldn't feel better....but then became very ill with a helicobacter infection.... commonly caught from contaminated water. This was confirmed by hospital tests.
Interesting this article just appeared:
https://www.mylondon.news/lifestyle/food-drink/youtuber-feels-ill-after-catching-21709117