Noah
-
Posts
334 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Posts posted by Noah
-
-
I know this is probably a daft question but I'd rather ask it than get it wrong and cost me money.
i'm fitting an alternator controller... I've got to connect a wire to the negative but the book's guide doesn't seem to cover my brand...
I've got a W connection that currently has nowt attched to it is that it?
i'd ring sterling but I've no credit on mi phone and no money left to buy some.
Snibble... be ye out there?
Boat's a scouser with an isuzu engine, the alt's not got a brand but the back of the regulatorr's got "uniport" written on it. The book say's it's a 110A but the alt say's it's 80A so I'm not trusting it..
Ta?!
Hi Smelly
The label "Unipart" suggests that the alternator may be a Lucas replica like my Lucas (Unipart) A127. Often these have no manufacturer's markings at all to identify them. On mine one of the connector posts on the alternator is stamped B- for negative. These markings can be difficult to see, and connect, on some engines without moving the alternator.
Be sure that the connections you make are secure and use shake-proof washers. I recently had the negative come loose and it caused an intermittent fault that was hard to trace.
Noah
-
or the lovely Splitting Hatchet from - Gränsfors Bruks Axes
Great website - these Scandinavians are still axe-mad. I want the double-headed "Throwing Competition Axe" ! Remember that scene in "The Vikings" with Kirk Douglas?
Noah
-
I Have lined mine with 3mm self adhesive neoprene. Neoprene is good because it a a closed cell foam, hence acts as a vapour barrier so it does not absorb moisture either. Some insulation prdocuts if they are permeable can still form a layer of wet insulation against the cold steel because the damp air can still get to the surface and condense. I chose this because I only had about 4mm from the bottom of the hatch to the top of the internal lip and I did not want to start hacking out the internal lip. it appears to have worked well for the autumn so far but I will hold judgement until I see if the adhesive lasts.
Hi PeterF
Where did you get your self-adhesive neoprene sheeting from? I tried 3mm closed-cell foam on the hatch underside but heat from sunlight softened the contact adhesive I used. I ended up using 4mm cork tiles with cork adhesive - so far it's OK.
Noah
-
Hi Jelunga
We have been thinking of doing just that for a few years. Some say to us “just do it!” and I think they are probably right. There is a very real risk of getting old and wishing that we had!
We have a small house and would not be able to downsize and fund a larger, live-aboard boat. So, in another 5 years (no longer!) we plan to sell-up and live-aboard with no desire to be enslaved again to the “property ladder.” Maybe we will build a boat that is as future-proof as possible so that there would be no great problems in the case of possible ill-health. Consideration would also have to be given to mooring site if cruising becomes limited.
Noah
-
It was great to meet you all yesterday, just a shame we had to drive home and not stay and get drunk with those who did! Driving home after only one pint of Old P was unexciting.
Thanks to Gary for another look around his workshop and the completed barge on the river.
Noah
-
Hi Folks
I had hoped to join you all and stay for Saturday night but the work situation (lack of!) has changed my plans. But girlfiend and I will still be able to make it over there for Saturday afternoon for a few hours and perhaps stay for an early evening meal. Looks as though I’ll be driving my van so only one pint of Old P
Will probably arrive about 1:30 pm at the Nav. If no one around will assume all round at Gary’s.
Noah
-
I’ve always used Bazza’s pike float idea. Test it (carefully!) if you add several more keys. And be careful which pocket you keep it in – it can look deeply suspicious!
Noah
-
Hi
Just a note on the Rufford Branch: the canal is blocked at Sparks Bridge at present while bridge repairs are underway - scaffolding and barrier fencing right across the channel. The Waterscape stopages list states that only the towpath is closed! I hoped to get to the sea lock on saturday but had to reverse half a mile back to the winding hole at Rufford Old Hall.
Noah
-
Hi Tony
I’m going to that a try on mine. I fitted a new Morse-type lever and have the same problem with the strong “throttle” spring on my Kubota engine. There is a friction screw in the Morse lever but even when fully tight it does not prevent slipping back at anything over quarter throttle. When I’m pushing a tide and need full power I hang a weight (pair of binoculars/pint glass) over the lever to keep it in place!
Noah
-
Sad that advancing years causes some changes to be made to our hobbies. My mate's dad retired from a motorcycle stunt team at 66. A few months later he was jumping out of planes!
All the best, John.
Noah
-
Thanks. I'll give the Nav a call when I know for certain that I can come along. I'm hesitating because of a new job offer and I'm unsure of the working hours. Work always seems to spoil the fun of spending my wages!
Noah
-
Thanks for all the tips for removing the sump drain. Unfortunately there was insufficient clearance to get a decent spanner/stilsons in there to remove either the plug or the hose attached to it. So I've done the next best thing and shortened the damaged hose, flared on another end and blocked the female thread with a blanking plug. It seems oil tight but I'll only really know when I get it hot and thin on a run at the weekend. For future oil changes I'll pump out though the dipstick hole.
My local Pirtek Fluid Transfer shop were really helpfull with the bits I needed:
Noah
-
Hi all
Me and girlfiend are thinking about coming if poss. Pubs here in West Lancs have stopped selling Old P these days and it's not the same in bottles! Any more info on accomodation at the inn? Is parking safe for a motorbike?
Noah
-
Heat. not silly amounts, ie not a "gas axe", but a little gentle warming with a blowlamp, (I presume sensible adult judgement on your part) or a hot air gun. There may well be a thread adhesive in use here, and a bit of heat should soften it, you could even run the engine 'till the oil is as hot as it gets.
'sensible adult judgement!' You presume too much from me, Snibble!
I wish I could get a torch under the sump but there isn't enough clearance. I've pumped out the remaining engine oil bacause it was leaking badly out of the rubber pipe that connects the sump drain plug to the brass oil pump. If I can't get it out without damage, then I might try to seal the split drain hose. I'm hoping there isn't too much pressure in the bottom end.
Noah
-
Thanks for more tips. I'm back to the boat this afternoon to threaten the plug with a better quality spanner and a lump hammer. I'll be careful as I'll be stuffed if either the plug or the thin sump bowl cracks. The plug has a hole in the centre with a square elbow connected to the hose which leads to the brass oil pump. BetaMarine (Kubota) have confirmed that it has a 1/4" BSPT thread with a hex head of 22mm. They can supply a replacement blank plug or new flexible pipe with end fittings. If strong words and 'gentle persuasion' doesn't work today then I may try cutting the hose (below the split) and blanking it off with a short length of round bar and hose clamp. Either way I will have succeded in blocking off the sump drain and fixing the leak.
Noah
-
I would agree that you need to get rid of a leaking battery, even if Halfords etc, do sell a repair kit. Besides the potential danger, an electrolyte leak can be messy. Use an alkaline solution (such as baking soda) to neutralize the acid spill. I had a battery split after a welder had forgot to disconnect first, spraying acid everywhere. Lucky there was no saltwater in the bilges!
Noah
-
Thanks for the replies. I'll try the advice on tightening first but it is a real pain to get under the sump pan with only half an inch of clearance from the baseplate. To remove the sump pan would be an engine out job. The reason I am trying to remove is because the existing hose, from sump plug to fixed brass pump, is leaking. I hope to replace with an ordinary sump drain plug and do future oil changes by pumping through the dipstick as Blackrose suggests.
-
Hi all
I've spend the day standing on my head trying to remove a leaking oil pump tube from under my engine. There is barely enough clearance to get a 22mm open-ended spanner under the sump to remove the drain plug but the plug just won't shift and seems to be as soft as lead! It is a BSPT threaded plug with an elbow attached. I will probably replace with a normal blanking drain plug and pump out oil through the dipstick in future. Any advice appreciated as I don't want to have to lift the engine out to gain access.
Noah
-
Hi Dunny
My only personal experience of going to the Black Sea is from a couple of motorbike trips I've done! However there are some huge barges on the Danube. I think the only limiting dimension is air draught if you choose a longer route through France. Try the Barge Association for advice, they even have a forum section on a Black Sea trip:
http://www.barges.org/main.php?section=1832
Noah
-
And to stop water coming in when the old stuff is taken out – reach down through the weed hatch with a fistful of plumbers putty (or Denso tape if you want to get real messy) and mould it around the outside of the shaft. I did this on my mate’s boat and only a few drips came in. I’ve got to do mine soon but I suspect that there may be some wear due to engine misalignment.
Noah
-
Wrong person, Noah
My question was aimed, and answered by Albatross
Ha! It was late in the day!
Noah
-
I hope you don't mind me asking but are you the Albatross that "Old Joe" used to have on the Number 3 moorings? black hull, white cabin with the black pram hood canopy, with the single cylinder engine?
Liam
No, not me Liam. I've only ever passed through the Bridgewater canal. Currently moored on the L&L.
Noah
-
Make sure none of it goes up the flue, maybe by adding some wood on top as Liam suggests. Otherwise you'll have partially burnt documents with legible personal details blowing around the neighbourhood! The bloke in the next house tried to destroy a pile of porno mags on a garden bonfire last week but singed pages got blown everywhere! I laughed, he didn't.
Noah
-
Noah, I think you're talking about Lloyds Bridge in Outrington, who provide various other facilities.
Thats's a new one to me Liam, but I'll have a look next week when I'm passing through. I forgot about the facilities in Worsely. The elsan near castlefield was a bit awkward last time I used it, last Christmas.
Noah
Broad beam build.
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
That white ceiling looks good, Gary. My nb has got one and, in my opinion, it looks much better than miles of veneer (or Krono) throughout. Is it T&G MDF or sheet?
I used Craftmaster and was also pleased. Seemed much more "body" than other enamels that I've tried.
Noah