n.b.Goldie
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Posts posted by n.b.Goldie
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Thanks for the thoughts.
New relay installed, fused on both circuits, system works well and it appears the voltage drop when the glowplugs are lit is a little less than with the OEM stuff.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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On 17/06/2019 at 22:33, jpmcq said:
Hi
I am in the process of buying a house that backs onto the Leeds/Liverpool canal (Maghull area of Liverpool) and I am looking for info regarding the strip of land that the CART owns between the garden & the canal (I have checked the land registry & the garden boundary ends about 1m from the canal).
I have read a lot of information regarding having to pay a mooring fee if I want to have a boat at the end of the garden, this seems clear, apart from the fact that I'm not sure if I would receive the 50% discount as I don't own the land up to the canal?
However, I have also been given the impression (by the solicitor & current home owner) that I may be expected to pay a 'tenancy fee' (or end of garden agreement fee) to incorporate this strip of land into my garden, regardless of whether or not I have a boat. The current home owner has said that they stopped paying this fee around 8 years ago & there is very little mention of it on the internet (I have only managed to find one thread about it on this forum & that was from 2007 I think), so it makes me wonder if this is something that people are not aware of or paying?
Do check that the canal is still its original width. IIRC a homeowner some time ago successfully argued that the ransom strip was at the bottom of the canal due to it being eroded away along with part of their land.
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The OEM glowplug timer/relay on my Lister LPWS3 has failed for the third time. It is a Ford part and costs £90 so have decided to replace it with a Durite 120amp relay on a manual switch. The OEM part is rated at 70amp so I am fairly confident the 120amp Durite will cope.
Currently am installing the low tension side from battery to manual switch and would feel more comfortable with a fuse in the circuit. I think the power requirement for actuating the relay will be fairly low but I can find no info on what it actually is. My questions are;
a) does anyone know the power draw?
b) what size fuse should I install?
My current thinking is perhaps 2amp.
c) should I install a fuse from battery to the high tension side going to the glowplugs? (I think the plugs draw 20amp each and there are three of them so perhaps a 100amp fuse?
Thanks in advance
Ditchdabbler
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2 minutes ago, Rob-M said:
Have you checked the links behind the buttons to see where they are trying to send you...? Don't click them though.
Good point, I had not but have now. These are the links;
https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/lostpassword/
https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/settings/secure-account/
So it appears the email is from canalworld but does not explain the different email adrress issue.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Started a new post because the other one appears to have strayed off topic.
Screenshot of email attached.
Is this genuinely from canalworld.net?
The 'To Me' email address is different to the one in my account settings.
Should I be worried? Has canalworld been hacked?
Any comments from the Admins?
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Hi all
I too occasionally receive a hacking attempt notification. It came from hello@canalworld.net. Is this a kosher address and email?
Wierdly the notification was sent to a different address to the one I have set on my profile.
Can the admins shed any light on what is happening?
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Lots of room in this setup to insert a plummer block bearing on the shaft between gearbox output and stern gland. It takes out any side play and protects the shaft bearing in the case of mis-alignment often due to wear on engine mounts and even mount failure. Ask me how I know ?
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Ventilation and plenty of it. Prevention always better thab cure.
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Interesting thread. Perhaps it's a marmite boat. I do know that the owner Mike is set on selling it but it is breaking his wife Gloria's heart. She has my sympathy having been in a similar position.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Had exactly same problem on a Beta Marine domestic alternator. Turned out to be corrosion on the b+ terminal on alternator. Cleaned it up and all was well.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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I requested a definitive answer from C&RT, below is their reply,
Dear Chris,
Thank you for your email. I am very sorry for the confusion.
Here at customer services we were under the impression until recently that it was no longer a requirement to display a licence on your boat as the system is computerised. However, having looked into this further, there is still a clause in our updated terms and conditions which states that it is still a requirement that a licence is displayed.
As it stands at the moment, customers are still required to display their licence discs on their boat despite what we were previously led to believe. Going forward, I'm not sure whether we will be going paperless with the licences although it is something which I'm sure you would agree would make things easier for everyone. For the time being, if customers are unable to print their discs we are able to send them out in the post for them as we had done previously.
I hope this answers your question, but please let me know if I can assist further.
Kind regards,
Katy Ellis
Customer Service Advisor
Canal & River Trust
E: customer.services@canalrivertrust.org.uk
T: 0303 040 4040
The Canal & River Trust is a new charity entrusted with the care of 2,000 miles of waterways in England and Wales. Get involved, join us - Visit Donate Volunteer at www.canalrivertrust.org.uk
Follow the Canal & River Trusts Customer Service team on Twitter http://twitter.com/CRTContactUs
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Thought you might be interested in this reply to my tweet, could not find any info on website
CRT Customer Service
replied to your Tweet.
Reply
Ditchdabbler @Ditchdabbler
Apr 30
@CRTContactUs Any truth in the rumour you are no longer issuing licence 'disks'?
CRT Customer Service
@CRTContactUs
May 01
@Ditchdabbler Sort of! We're now emailing licences rather than posting them, however there is no longer a requirement to display the discs.
Bumbles, topic posted twice but I have no idea why.
Perhaps a mod could delete one....
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Thought you might be interested in this reply to my tweet, could not find any info on website
CRT Customer Service
replied to your Tweet.
Reply
Ditchdabbler @Ditchdabbler
Apr 30
@CRTContactUs Any truth in the rumour you are no longer issuing licence 'disks'?
CRT Customer Service
@CRTContactUs
May 01
@Ditchdabbler Sort of! We're now emailing licences rather than posting them, however there is no longer a requirement to display the discs.
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How many boats can have the same home mooring? Could a marina with 10 moorings rent them cheaply as "low usage moorings" to 100 boats kind of like running a fractional reserve on the moorings assuming that no more than 10 boats will want to moor at any one time?
I would think it depends on the contract between marina and c&rt. A few years ago my boat club was queried by BW because way more boats declared the club as home mooring than our contract allowed. BW supplied us with a list of said boats and asked us to confirm which were correct so we got to see who had falsely declared. It was not up to us to tackle the offenders we just confirmed to BW and let them get on with it. We now update c&rt from time to time.
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It is possible the leak is from the joint of the case halves. IIRC Allan Jones had this on Keeping Up.
Also possible it is leaking from the input shaft seal into the bell housing and then down the back if the gearbox and underneath.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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There is a slight problem here.
When you glimpse a passing boat through the window from inside your own boat, whatever the speed, it usually looks 'too fast' in my experience. Once you go outside to check your stern line/whatever so you can also have a good ol' yell at them, you realise they aren't going so fast after all.
This to me seems to explain why the occasional boater will yell and complain no matter how slow one is going. They have already made up their minds you are going 'too fast' before they even pop out to commence yelling. The've fallen victim to the optical illusion.
The effect is amplified if the moored boat has portholes instead of windows.
MtB
This us very true. I usually do most of the steering and do try very hard not to speed. I have noticed that when I go below for a 'comfort break' and Landlady takes over the boat seems to speed up even though she has not touched the throttle as she pointed out once when I told her to slow down.
Perception us reality eh?
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Is the regulator cylinder mounted? If so my reading is that hose is fine as long as it's BS EN 1763 class 2, 3 or 4 and less then 1m long. See section 7.9.4.
"Except on ‘all hose’ systems, low pressure LPG hoses
may only be used to connect a LPG cylinder regulator
and/or appliances to the LPG supply pipework."
I think that implies you can't use hose on the LP side of a regulator which is mounted in the gas locker remote from the cylinder, but I don't see why you would want to. Copper pipe would be much better.
MP.
Hi.
The regulator is bottle mounted. The hose I fitted was BS EN 1763 class 1 which is the low pressure type. In fairness to the inspector he said that in his opinion it was a safe installation but that the regs demand class 2 or above which is high pressure hose and therefore he had to fail the system. It was only a ten minute job to change it once I bought it but I still cannot see the point of high pressure hose requirement when under normal operating conditions the hose will never see more than low pressure.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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This topic is of interest to me because recently my little ship failed its boat safety due to me having fitted low pressure hose between the regulator and bulkhead fitting and within the confines of the gas locker. Low pressure hose is reasonable I thought as the gas released by the regulator to the appliances is low pressure (37 millibar)
BSC requires high pressure hose, clearly I had not done my research properly.
However the thought occurred to me that in the event of a regulator failure, high pressure gas (some 150psi) will reach appliances expecting only 37 millibar (a couple of pounds I think) which I would believe is highly undesirable and probably dangerous. The thought of being unaware that such high pressure is in the cabin and attempting to light an appliance is quite un-nerving.
I would prefer to have a low pressure hose fail within the confines of the gas locker than high pressure gas in the cabin. I admit it is uncertain that the hose would fail before an appliance or that an appliance might already be lit at the time of regulator failure but a high pressure hose certainly puts the problem squarely into the cabin.
So, I put these thoughts to the boat safety folk who have acknowledged receipt of my enquiry but have so far refused to comment. What price safety? I would have thought they might at least give me a rational for their requirement, the BSC documentation to my mind has confused hose within the cabin and hose without. Certainly any hose within must be high pressure no argument but within a gas locker?
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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My LPWS 4 developed an airlock at the top of the skin tank, and so overheated today. Topping up the skin tank and header tank seems to have solved that problem, because the engine now runs happily, the pipe work is cooler, and there is a temperature gradient across the surface of the skin tank whereas before, when it overheated, it was entirely cold but the pipes into the tank extremely hot! The engine itself got hot enough to set the water that came out of the header to steaming, but not hot enough to set off e high temperature alarm- I don't have a gauge.
I think the airlock developed over a long period of time, as it seems to have got hot yesterday when working hard, dumped some water out of the header, and then drawn some air in overnight to cause the airlock this evening.
The main thing is, is there anything worth doing before running her engine again and carrying on boating? Maybe an oil change? I'm also not sure if it's impeller cooled, I don't think it is as there's no mention of it in the manual, so presumably there's no impeller to change. The plan is to start off more slowly and gently, and run with the header tank open for a bit, to let any air escape and observe what's happening closely.
My LPWS3 sometimes, when running for some 4 hours or so, dumps some water from the header. I think this is due to the relatively small size of the header tank compared to the volume of water in the cooling system (much more than in a 'standard' radiator) and being unable to cope with the expansion of such a volume of water. I have found that keeping just enough to cover the bottom of the header by half an inch or so minimises the loss of water to no more than a 'dampening'.
I do find it annoying that the header-tank cap does not have a small pipe attachement so that dumped water can be directed into a container rather than just being sprayed over the engine. I have considered changing the header for a remote off-engine type but have am not sure which would be suitable as the Lister one seems to employ a sort of circulatory system from the exhaust heat exchanger to the header tank via a 8mm pipe.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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I do not know the answer but am sure Beta Marine will and I think you should give them a call, they are very helpful folk. Do give them your engine no. to help them identify your build.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Me too, I would like to know the answer to this, can anyone help? Martyn1, ChrisB, Bizzard, Tony Brooks etc.?
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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Landlady and myself will be there in my little ship Goldie, please do say hi if you see us. :-)
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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No probs ditchdabbler.
Been nice if the smartarse yoghurt pot comments hadn't been blasted thru your CB equipment....
Gazza,
An average boater
MNCC - Not that it makes any difference!
I apologise for any comments that might have been broadcast, it is not the ethos of the club.. BTW I do not like cb radio on the cut and I do not use it. I will mention unacceptable behaviour at our next general meeting.
Regards
Ditchdabbler
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If only there were more like you!
Another trip that springs to mind was 2011 on the GU,it was the week of the Royal wedding. We caught up with the Lionhearts cruising club at Yardley Gobion, complete with CB radios, run leader and tail end charlie.
we had 16' and 20' cruisers, what a faff getting by this unfeasible long and slow convoy of self appointed canal police, we had the eTrex so were confident we were not exceeding the speed limit.
A couple of the group were decent enough and understood why we didn't want to join their procession, others were frankly rude and obnoxious, but hey ho it makes for memories and tales to tell.
Thank you so much for acknowledging that we cruise on the slow side, we are often accused of being throttle happy. Much appreciated!
Regards
Ditchdabbler
Commodore
Lionhearts Cruising Club
LPWS Glowplug Relay Fuse Rating Advice Please :-)
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I have had three of these highly expensive (£90) and overcomplicated bits of kit fail in the ten years or so I have owned the boat.
Two types of failure;
-the first was that the relay would not disengage, the glowplugs were permanently lit. I came to realise something was wrong when my 50amp alternator could not keep up with the 60amp draw of the plugs.
-the second was when the relay would not engage and the plugs were then not heated for starting.
Of the three failures two were type one.
I am not sure why they fail, I did try remounting the relay away from the engine thinking vibration destroying the relay could be an issue but it made no difference.
The 'glowplug light' on the instrument panel only indicates when the timer circuit has cut out and its time to crank. It does not indicate whether the plugs are lit or not. When its working it appears the relay cuts out shortly after the alternator starts producing power. I have to say I am not entirely sure I am correct about this last bit.
I did a few years ago put in a warning light wired and fused directly to the glowplugs as a tell-tale to let me know if they are lit or not. The second failure was detected when this light came on whilst cruising along. It also detected the third failure when during start-up the light did not come on despite the timer light on the instrument panel being lit.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Ditchdabbler