HenryFreeman
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Posts posted by HenryFreeman
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This has been really useful as I was just asking about a cruise along the Huddersfield. I'm more and more tempted to go this way and could at least do a complete loop back via Hebden Bridge. Thanks all!
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6 hours ago, dmr said:
right, must read the posts better 😀
So what happens to the boat at the end of the 9 day one way cruise ? 😀
I cycle back to Leeds for work and move my boat back towards Leeds over the course of the next few weeks
Or just work from the boat. Either fine!
7 hours ago, Midnight said:I'm afraid it' all been a bit of a gamble in Yorkshire recently and it's impossible to say if things will improve. The L&L is probably the nicest bit, swing bridges apart. As you say best wait for a crewed boat if you are single handed as many of those bridges don't have offside bollards.
For a one-way nine day cruise I would recommend Leeds to 'the bends' at East Marton and beyond. Next would be Brighouse to Summit or Littleborough on the Rochdale. The Huddersfled narrow is also spectacular but an absolute pain single-handed. (I have the Tee Shirt). If you're fit and it's open long enough well worth the effort. The Standedge Tunnel is a great experience even if your boat gains a few scratches.
If you need a temporary mooring for a starting point on the Calder & Hebble PM me.
Thanks! Very kind of you. I think I might have not fully explained my plans. Essentially I'm a CCer that mostly hovers around the L&L in Leeds, and work from home which gives me the option to work from the boat rather than my other half's house which I normally do. My other half wants to go for a cruise as we've not really had the boat out for a while - as explained in my post about the boat yard painting my boat and the dramas surrounding that - so we've got a week in July plus an additional weekend for a nice cruise somewhere.
The easiest option would be to go from Leeds to "somewhere" but I'm not against the idea of working my way towards another place (say... Huddersfield) over the course of June as a starting point if there's a more interesting cruise. I've not actually been beyond Apperley Bridge on the L&L so a cruise that way would be new ground for me and I've not been down towards Huddersfield on the boat (although been plenty of times with other forms of transport) and so that'd be new boating territory for me too.
And I'm not against the idea of going even a bit further if there's some other parts of the canal network that's worth a visit but ideally I'd be somewhere "up north" mainly because Leeds/Wakefield area is where I'm mostly based for work/social life etc. etc.
There'll be two of us so swing bridges etc. aren't too much of a bother. And I have heard good things about the Huddersfield so that's definitely an option too!
Cheers!
10 hours ago, Ken X said:We cruised this area last year and had to adjust our plans due to canal closures caused by water shortages. Not being local I don't know how this winter has been waterwise in Yorkshire but, our home area has only received average rainfall over the winter so far, resulting in the ground water remaining on the low side. It would seem prudent to consider water resilient routes for your cruise if you wish to remain mobile.
The L & L from Leeds going west is swingbridge heavy but we enjoyed it. We visited Saltaire and had the pleasure of the Bingley three and five rise locks. We focus on industrial archaeology, walking and pubs so were well provided for. Mooring in Leeds was easy and plenty to see and do for all tastes.
Our adjusted plans saw us heading down the Aire and Calder and the Calder and Hebble. We found the A & C and C & H easy boating due to the automated locks but lacking in interest as mooring opportunities are less and the views limited. Having said that, several people we met loved it for the easy boating and guaranteed water. There is certainly plenty of walking once moored. Once we got back onto the manual locks at Wakefield we found more things of interest to us but, conversely, had to dig out the handspike🙂.
Hope you find a route which stays open and I am sure others who are more local and informed can advise better on the finer points
I've walked along that route a number of times and while it's not new territory for me as I've been living just down the road in Horsforth while my boat has been out of action, on the boat beyond Apperley Bridge it is new and there's some great pubs along the way to stop at! And not to mention Saltaire Brewery. There's a lot of interesting spots along the L&L once you get away from Leeds and I'd definitely be keen to give it a go.
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Hey all,
Planning a cruise in July when I've got a week off work. I'll be based around Yorkshire at that time, was thinking of a one way cruise to Skipton or Gargrave from Leeds or possibly doing part of the loop from Huddersfield to Todmorden or Hebden Bridge.
Or am open to other ideas and I could move my boat to a starting point before July although would ideally be somewhere up north.
Wondered if anyone had any recommendations based on the above?
Cheers!
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They could have tidied up and washed their mugs before taking photos of it.
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1 hour ago, Higgs said:
I wouldn't be happy to have that boat painted again without going back to steel.
And that's what I've gone for. I offered the original boat yard the opportunity to look at the boat to see the problems but they didn't seem interested. So I've had to go down the legal route as they've just not been at all responsive, which has been their modus operandi since the start.
"Why do something today that you can put off doing until for tomorrow or next week or the following month" -
Just now, Alan de Enfield said:
I hope you are correct, but don't dismiss it without giving it consideration - as the post I 'cut and pasted' showed one forumites boat went from 8mm base plate to under 3mm (+ pitting) in 2 years.
The MIC lives 'in the steel' and under the paint, sanding and power washing does not remove it.
I'll mention it to the new boat yard and see what they think. Cheers for the heads up!
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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Have a read of this - it is something not widely accepted in the 'canal community' except by those whose boats have been affected by it .
The forum experts will be along shortly to poo-poo it.
Microbial Corrosion Marine.pdf 2.08 MB · 0 downloads MICROBIOLOGICAL-CORROSION.pdf 578.22 kB · 0 downloads
Thanks Alan, I'll have a good read. I'm not entirely sure it applies in this case as it's the first time I've seen anything like that on my boat and it had been sat on hard standing for over a year and only back in the water in December but you never know. I suspect not in this case but useful to read all the same!
Cheers!
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Those rust-pustules in pic No4 look like MIC which is bad,bad news - if it is then sanding down and replainging doesn't get rid of it. have someone look at it if you can.
The rest of the boat is a 'mess' so all the best for getting recompense via the courts.
Picture of MIC for comparison :
Can I ask what MIC is? Something I'll need to look up. The new boat yard suggested that the pitting in the hull and a layer of paint that wasn't thick enough was the cause for this rust as the layer of paint was too thin to get into the pits.
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Unfortunately the boat yard in question has failed to respond other than a reply to emails with "I'll respond accordingly" so I've submitted a claim at the county court. A bit annoying having to do this. But when the boat was dry docked, this is what I saw. The hull was claimed to have been "finished". The top side of the boat has had the primer sanded back almost to the metal in places which surely negates the point of a primer. On top of that, the side hatch doors have been sandblasted closed and painted over and the cratch frame hasn't been done properly. It's really not good enough for the money that had been paid. So we'll see what happens with that.
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19 hours ago, Tonka said:
but a lot of the comments are by Connor Rhys Cudlipp
Now i am no detective but i would say that is C W Boatmover blowing his own trumpet
Everyone games Facebook to a degree. But There's an absolute ton of reviews from plenty of non-Cudlipp's.
https://www.facebook.com/cwboatmover/reviews
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19 hours ago, C W Boatmover said:
Hi 👋🏻I totally understand you, but apparently it’s being made an issue by keyboard warriors.
That’s life eh, try something out. Get shot down. And move on. 😊
Maybe they want to send you a birthday card? Or a love letter?
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Nice looking boat that. I've found your write up interesting and useful, even if someone else doesn't. I've no (actual, real) plans to do an entire fitout myself but always interested to read what other people are doing and what they had to face!
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21 minutes ago, Grassman said:
As well as the photos perhaps it might be an idea to have an independent opinion/report as well, by a marine surveyor or another boat painter for example. Then if your quest for a refund becomes a legal challenge you would then have more scope to argue your case.
I'll do that. I think I'll have to find a painter independent of the new boat yard who are going to finish off this work. Could be seen as a conflict of interests.
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2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
FWIW. If the light paint in the photos is the primer, then what is the black under it. The light looks sprayed to me but in a very shoddy way, parts missed and a thin uneven coat. The painters in the garage used to call that a "slash coat".
I'm assuming that is the Jotamastic 80 primer. Apparently comes in various colours according to the datasheet - https://www.jotun.com/eg-en/industries/products/Jotamastic-80. I assume it can be used for more than just a primer if you can get it in green.
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Just now, Alan de Enfield said:
Some boats have an "Alde" gas fired hot water / central heating system which in cold weather can use up to 2x 13kg cylinder (£40 each) PER WEEK
I know of several people who have had them and have had them removed and diesel fired or solid fuel heating installed
Ah, that makes some sense. I rarely go through two cylinders a year, but then I do appear to eat a lot of sandwiches.
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On 02/02/2023 at 08:33, matty40s said:
License £105, insurance £33, coal £46, gas £47, diesel £30. = £251
That's an annualised monthly figure, with June bought coal.
It doesnt include any maintenance on the boat.
That's before clothes, food, beer, mooring fee, electric, car tax, insurance diesel, tv licence, broadband internet, mobile phone, etc etc.
Boat life is not cheap, but is an wonderful way of life.
You go through a bottle of gas a month? Or is that your yearly costs divvied up over 12 months?
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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Good luck with it all.
Thank you! I think I'll get a good job done by the new boatyard, and much more quickly. The fun bit will be trying to salvage a refund or even part refund from the original one.
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35 minutes ago, Barneyp said:
Given the level of service the original company provided i wouldn't put any trust in what they say they have done.
I'm not sure how it can have taken them so long to only get part way through the job. If your doing it properly you need minimal time between each process, i.e. it needs priming straight after blasting (having first blown off or otherwise removed all dust and grit) and then subsequent coats of paint need to be applied at specified intervals. Meaning from start to finish the whole boat should be finished in a week, possibly two.
From what you say it sounds like they blasted the whole boat and then concentrated on the hull leaving the cabin sides to rust, "anti corrosive epoxy primer" will not provide full protection, thats why it needs a top coat.
If I was the new boatyard I'd be very wary of painting over what's already been done, no matter how good a job they do if it's already rusting underneath the finish coating won't last anywhere near as long as it should, which will make the look bad.
Yep, the new boatyard has suggested that they should essentially start again, I think they're probably of the same mind. Will have to look at what the bottom half is looking like when it goes into dry dock and go from there. The hull hopefully will be fine.3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:I agree - they will never take responsibility and give any guarantee on their work as they are 'building on dubious foundations' which will affect the quaity of their work.
I think the OP may have to bite the bullet and pay for the new firm to start from scratch and take it back to bare metal.
He could try to take some action using consumer law / citizens advice bureau / trading standards but that would need to be done before starting to re-do what has already been done, otherwise the evidence is 'gone'.
I think that'll be one for after I've spoken to the original boatyard about the quality of their work. I think that discussion will have to happen over text/email so I've got a paper trail. The original agreement was over the phone, although they did provide a PDF with the original quote and plan for the work, however further discussions were made after they'd provided me with that and with much regret it was made over the phone and I didn't get them to confirm it in writing.
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20 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Obviously not a 'cheap' job so I'd have expected a better standard than that.
One problem could be that if you took it away at the undercoat stage, is that undercoat is generally not 'waterproof' and will absorb moisture, if it is not painted over quickly then it will start to cause rusting.
Unless in a heated 'indoor' paint shop September can be a difficult month for painting due to the Dew Point and condensation forming on the cold steel in the mornings - if not properly dried off and warmed, then it can cause problems with paint adhesion.
I think that this may also be (partly ?) the result of leaving it from September to December without any top-coat protection.
That is one concern although the primer used is described as an "anti-corrosive coating" epoxy primer and as far as I understand it, that should be non-porous. It'd taken the boat yard from May when they started sandblasting it to around the end of August to get to a stage where the primer had been applied. I believe they had to sandblast it twice. The whole debacle has been a comedy of errors and delays.
It feels like little to no care or consideration has been made by the boat yard and almost every stage has had delays of weeks or longer between. I had initially been told to arrange getting the boat back in the water and when I eventually asked for assistance from the boat yard as the crane company didn't seem too keen to speak to me directly, when I'd asked if they had spoken to the crane company about the crane being on site on a particular Friday in November was told they were "waiting for confirmation", a phone call to the cane company confirmed the boat yard hadn't even spoken to them. Eventually it got booked for the second week of December.
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Just now, Alan de Enfield said:
Was the £5000 the price for the 'full job' or just for as far as they got ?
£5000 for a full 'back-to-metal' respray is (from when I got quotes) probably less than half of the going rate. One yard quoted me £14000.
That was for as far as they got. I was paying in stages as the work was done. The entire job was going to be in the region of £12000
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Hello,
I've recently had some work done by a boatyard in Yorkshire. I won't go into any further details about them but I've paid £5000 for the work done and I have to profess I'm not entirely happy with the result. To cut a long story short, the work done on the boat took far, far longer than I had originally expected and there became a point around end of September where I had decided that the work was taking too long and I told them to stop work and I would have it finished elsewhere. As far as I understood it, under the waterline is finished and the top half needed a high build primer and the top coat to complete.
It took from around that time to the start of December to get the boat back in the water. I took it to the new boat yard yesterday and one of the guys at the boat yard expressed concern about the work done and has suggested that it really needs to be sandblasted back to metal again and restarted.I'm not sure what impact, if any, that stopping the work has occurred on the metalwork - the boat was sandblasted and as far as I understand it had Jotamastic 80 applied. I don't know what other undercoat/primer has been applied. I would have assumed that the primer layer would ensure that rust wouldn't come through before applying top coats.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
HF
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Home made wine
in Living Afloat
Posted
I've made beer on the boat. It's not too tricky overall but maintaining a stable temperature is the most difficult bit and temperature control overall is tough going but not impossible. Less of a problem with certain beer yeasts. Too high a temperature and your beer/wine will have weird flavours, too cold and it'll take forever to ferment.