Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Was the bearing failure due to a lubrication fail, or was it a faulty end shell?
  2. Now I'm curious! I will dig out the information this evening. I'm sure I was told that the restorer used to work at Gardner. I will find out.
  3. Thank you very much for correcting the title of my post. I did see the typo after I posted it. Typical of me to rush a post and not proof read it. I will contact Walsh's - thank you for the suggestion. I do have the info of who rebuilt mine but forget for the moment. Thank you
  4. A V-twin must be very different to an in-line twin. Sharing a crank pin for example.
  5. I see what you mean. Just like music where you have four beats in a four-beat measure (a four cylinder), a twin has only two beats but we are anticipating a four beat? ...In a very roundabout and crude way of an explanation..
  6. Great photo - thank you very much - and to the other reply above this one. Odd, though, how the beat doesn't sound 180 apart at idle. Maybe something to do with the inertia not being sufficient to keep an even note? Thank you!
  7. I have been looking on the Internet for information on the Gardner crankshaft but cannot find the info I am looking for. Does anyone on here know the angle in degrees between the crank pins on the 2LW crankshaft? The Gardner 2LW, like many twin cylinder engines, doesn't have the crank pins set at 180 degrees - otherwise you wouldn't hear the distinctive "po-TA-to, po-TA-to" beat from the exhaust. I have already emailed gardnermarine and had no response yet. I will try Tangent Engineering at some point, but I thought I'd ask the community on here first. Looking forward to replies. Richard
  8. I did see this website and saw it uses MEG-type antifreeze. This does seem to be the more favourable choice. From all of the replies I see that there's no real definitive answer. That's not discounting the advice, or course. The suggestions I have been given are ones that I have already considered and then re-considered, changed my mind etc.etc.. My engine does have bright-blue rubber tubing which now is a factor in choosing a coolant. I looked at a PDF written about antifreeze in classic MG engines and that wan't overly conclusive. You'd have thought that the answer would have been simple - determined my the engine-block and cooling system materials. It is the (rust)inhibitor that is of most importance to me.
  9. Hi all, Stated in the "Instruction Book No. 67" (or is it 87?) it recommends the antifreeze to be Ethanediol. At the moment my antifreeze is PINK. Not a great description but that is all I know of it. I am wanting to renew the antifreeze and my main concern is using the correct one for the corrosion inhibitor. I can't remember the exact age of my engine but it is mid 1960s. Morris do a MEG based antifreeze which I have read is okay - but it does contain silicates of which I am unsure of its use in the older engine. Does anyone know the correct antifreeze type for the Gardner 2LW (and of course for any engine of this type and age) that has the correct formulation to prevent rusting and corrosion of the block and pipework. Looking forward to your replies. Richard
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.