robkg
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Posts posted by robkg
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A possible solution to poor flow problems is to fit an external pump to boost the flow. It can be wired in parallel with the switched supply to the Webasto unit so that it doesn't need switching separately. I did this to my installation several years ago with dramatically improved results. This may be an easier fix than replumbing the whole system.
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My fresh water pump is a jabsco variable speed one. It has worked fine for the last six years but has now developed a problem.
The symptom is that the pump will start to run very gently (slowly) for a second or two, every 30 seconds or so.
I initially thought this meant that I had a leak in the pipework somewhere, but after some investigation I now think it is a problem with the pump internally. I first checked the bilges at the lowest point on the boat (after the pump had been powered for three days) only to find them bone dry. I then closed the valve located immediately downstream of the pump, isolating the whole of the boats pipework, with the result that the pump still ran intermittently but for even shorter bursts and longer gaps. I concluded that the pump has a fault, and wondered if water is leaking back through a non return valve within the pump itself.
Does this sound right and if so what can I do to rectify the problem?
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Not the same thing at all, especially for an inexperienced and nervous hirer!
I have been narrowboating for 46 years, and a boat owner for the last 21 years. I have driven a car for the past 34 years, and to date have never had an 'own fault' accident. I like to think I am reasonably responsible and careful.
Three years ago I allowed my boat to get caught on the cill whilst decending a lock. Fortunately I got away with it but still have cold shivers when I think about it.
However infallible some of you think you are to not paying attention, please think again!
If someone is experimenting with ways of reducing this risk, then please support them rather than deriding them.
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It pains me slightly to hear the term 'engineer' used to describe what I would call a steel work fabricator, or even, a welder. But equally you might have more look using these terms if using the internet to find someone for the job if you have not already done so.
Daniel
Whilst I wholeheartedly agree with you, some of us that call ourselves engineers, are in fact qualified engineers.
Rob
HND (Mech. Eng.) MPhil (Mech. Eng.)
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Hi Philip,
I am an engineer near Bristol. I would be glad to see if I can help if you are interested.
I will PM my contact number.
Rob
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Hi all,
Thanks for your nice comments.
Just a quick update:
Repairs are largely done including some nervous cold cast iron welding.
The other building occupant turned up this evening and whilst denying any knowledge of said damage, he explained that his friend drove the forktruck that night and must have hit my engine. He apologised profusely and immediately offered to reimburse any expense. So my faith in human nature is largely restored.
Hi Jim,Rob, what an awful thing to happen. We missed you at Braunston this year - presumably you were busy finishing off your amazing restoration. I do hope you'll be able to repair it.
Jim
I wish I had managed to make it to Braunston but I stupidly committed to attending a speed awareness course on the Saturday.
if the casting is beyond repair the Bristol foundry (I think that's what its called) do cast iron and are well used to doing bits for marine engines. If it is smallish (up to a couple of kilos) I can cast it in bronze, if it only needs simple machining I may be able to do that.
Richard Cooper
Hi Richard, I have fortunately managed to repair the casting so won't need to have the part recast, but thanks for your help and kind offer.
Rob
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I have spent the last three months (ten hours a day) restoring an extremely rare 1926 Dutch marine engine (Van Rennes) acquired from ebay.
This has been the subject of a thread on the semi diesel sub-forum.
I finished it a week or so ago and posted a youtube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=1JKFhUvfApk
This morning I arrived at work (where the engine is) to find that another individual who rents space in the same building as me, has moved my forklift truck and in doing so has managed to ram the engine. This has broken the cast iron governor casing right round and has bent the crossshaft (sort of camshaft) which drives the governor, the air start valve, the fuel pump and the oil pump.
I have not seen him yet to talk to but he did not leave me a note confessing to having done this.
NOT HAPPY
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Timeleech, having thought about your comments, I think you are right. I thought the need for lit paper inserted to start the engine was an indicator that the engine was semi diesel. However once running and warm, compression alone is sufficient to cause ignition. Both the cylinders and heads are water cooled.
The tips of the paper holders may get hot and assist ignition, but not to the same extent as an uncooled cylinder head.
Martyn, your showing that Gardner was a bit cruel ., it would make a great project but not viable to import, but it is tempting.
Rob
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Only starts cold in a heat wave and then a bit reluctantly. Otherwise it needs starting with burning starting papers.
In the video it was started only a few hours after it had previously been running and was still warm.
Rob
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Hi all,
Restoration is now complete.
See a video herehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=1JKFhUvfApk
All I need now is a boat to put it in!
Rob-
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Oops, I'm a numpty,
Checked again this morning and the reasoning I used yesterday was flawed, it only injects once per cylinder per rev.
I am aware of the engine at the Niewe Nierdorp museum, but it seems to have several differences.
I have however found one other the same as mine in a Dutch Barge moored on the Thames in London.
The boat was up for sale several years ago and the advert claimed the engine was 88 HP.
This seems plausible to me as the single cylinder Field Marshall is 40ish HP.
I have measured the capacity of the engine at a little over 13 litres.
The stepped piston system looks very clever with two banks of reed valves per cylinder.
Has anyone any suggestions how I can free one stuck piston ring on each cylinder (all the others are free)
I am nervous of rough treatment as I cannot risk breaking them!
Rob
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Restoration is now well under way.
One thing I have discovered which puzzles me is that the injectors appear to inject fuel twice for every revolution of the engine.
i.e. once at the top of the piston stroke and again at the bottom.
Is this the way any other 2 stroke semi diesels work?
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Hi, Great project, very similar in style to a Kromhaut,both Dutch and air start, quite a bit of info on google, my work colleague is Dutch,I will see what he can get info wise and get back in touch.
Thanks, thats great as any info would be very useful.
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Ridiculously big for a narrowboat but I have already got a "sensible" boat with a tiny Kelvin K2 in it.
Well spotted, it is compressed air start and is fitted with a Brevo gearbox.
I don't yet know the bore, but I have measured the stroke at 270mm.
It has two water pumps fitted. Would these both have been used for engine cooling (in parallel) or is one intended as an auxiliary pump?
Rob
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No plans but I did muse over the idea of either building a narrowbeam tug from scratch (deep draughted!) of finding an old one to fit it in.
Finances won't allow in the foreseeable future though.
To be pedantic for a second, it is not blowlamp pre-heat but uses smouldering paper in screw in rods. (same as the Marshall tractor in the background)
I'm sure that if you inserted one of those into your horse it would definitely start.
I have found a whistle (like a steam whistle) on the oil system that I assume is a low level warning system. Are these fitted to any other engine makes?
Rob
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Sorry - I cannot help with any info . . .
But that's a steady-looking toy you've just bought - - an handsome wee beastie!
Not sure about the "wee" bit. I estimate it's weight at about two and a half tonnes.
Rob
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In a mad moment I recently bought this engine from Ebay
It is a "Van Rennes" two stroke semi diesel engine and gearbox. I am about to undertake a full restoration.
If anyone has any knowledge or info about Van Rennes, I would be very interested.
Rob
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Hi Sooz,
I am reasonably local and may be able to help.
I will pm you with my contact details so that you can contact me if you wish.
Rob
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Does a workshop manual exist for the K series engines?
I have only been able to find an owners manual which does not provide setting info such as injection timing.
As far as the injectors are concerned, presumably all I can do is remove, dismantle and clean them in order to improve the spray pattern.
Rob
"hot pugs test"
I haven,t been cooking the dog!
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if you have the original Kelvin 24v electric starter and flywheel fitted and the injection timing is set correctly, it ought to start from cold on diesel....... If the engine does not have an electric starter, and hand starting is the only option, keeping the magneto, spark plugs and leads in tip top condition must be a very high priority.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
I am intruiged by your comments Alnwick, my engine has original 24v electric start and was a Seaward Engineering rebuild about eight years ago.
In that time the engine has never been possible to start cold on diesel. In fact unless it runs for more than a minute on petrol, it won't keep running when switched to diesel. Once warmed up it never misses a beat all day long.
My hunch is magneto needs remagnetising, but I will try the fuel suggestions and the "hot pugs test" before sending it away,
Rob
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Hi
I am looking for pointers.
My K2 is not modified for diesel cold starts, so I need the original petrol start to work.
It has been fine for a number of years, but recently has started playing up.
When turning over the engine it will fire on petrol but then won't keep running for more than a few seconds.
Further attempts result in running for even less time, only a couple of firings before stopping.
So far I have cleaned out the carb. jet, cleaned the plugs, and cleaned the magneto points.
All to no avail.
My next step would be to remove the magneto and send it to a specialist.
Any ideas?
Rob
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Hi all,
I am planning to take my model "Eagle" again this year.
She now has a Bolinder fitted plus the steerer actually steers.
Rob
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Big Dog
Big Duck
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I appreciate that you were not critisising the use of fake washers, Alan but I have read many posts that do.
I think the Fullers were the first but I can't remember my source of this info. (so I could be wrong)
first off there isnt a decent copy....and i take my hat off to who ever invented welding washers on the side of a hull to extract extra cash off troughy boat owners....bless them and there polished tiller pins
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
Webasto Thermo Top C - 15mm or 22mm pipes?
in Boat Equipment
Posted
I'm not suggesting you have to fit an external pump, I'm just being pragmatic in that this could be a solution if attempting redress from the installer fails.