carp-addict

Maybe the wording wasn't ideal. It sounds like a single pump revolution

Thanks In the meantime using the system as is with the pump clonking now and then is this pressurising the system or just going back and forward Thanks Tracy Thanks Dave

Update I have pumped the tank back to 35psi and slowly let the pressure out like Tracy advised last time. It seemed like an age of releasing the pressure but eventually the pump kicked in. Refilled the tank but I am still getting the sporadic pump sound. I turned off the stop valve on the water tank and the pump sound has stopped. So am I right in thinking theres no leak on the system and its the pump valves, in this case can they be replaced or is it easier to fit a new pump

But what if I set the tank to its original 35psi and then turn the pump back on (it shouldnt activate like it didnt when i first installed it) but what if the pump kicks in does this indicate that the tank has failed or the pump pressure switch has failed

Ok so I fitted an accumulator tank a few months ago and recently the water system has been acting odd. At present the tank is full but the water pump keeps making a sporadic clunking sound Ive checked the tank and when pressed air does come out of the valve. Ive altered the pressure switch both increased and decreased but I cannot get the sporadic pump noise to stop, probably clunks every 15mins or so. Ive checked for leaks where I can but cannot see any Ive taken the tank pressure to 25psi (par max 4 pump has a kick in of 15psi) pump turned off drained the water out and then turned back on. In theory the pump shouldnt start as its way above the parameters but mine kicked in. Am I correct in thinking the pressure switch is knackered or am I missing something As always all advice welcome BTW When I increase or decrease the pressure switch screw it does increase or decrease the pressurebut I dont know how or where it reads the 10psi cut in from

Hi Bod It's made of steel and as far as I know it has an inspection chamber

Hi all I am looking for advice I am in the process of decommissioning my pump out toilet. The tank will remain in situ for the foreseeable but I need advice for the best way to clean out the inside with a view that eventually it will dry out inside without any odours. Is this something that can be achieved Regards

Thank you for taking the time out to explain and I did use your method of taking a little air out until the pump kicked in. I have today replaced the accumulator and it did have flanges on the bottom so if needed you can change the bladder, Not very cost effective at all One removed I put it into the sink to drain out and what was very noticeable was the rubber residue left around the plug hole Even more alarming was once I started to shake the water out the colour was a brown rusty colour Any how Job Done Thanks all

Thanks Tony

Thinking this may be ok as a replacement https://www.toolstation.com/expansion-vessel-potable/p41665?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt66eBhCnARIsAKf3ZNFfTvVjdBVpUkHq8tI_jFLTdK5GTtY2MPIHtxtF8KTQtlM56c9Ob-caAm13EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Thoughts ?

For what its worth heres a pic of the tank As there is no writing on I am unsure what the size is Measurements are approx 17cm width 28cm

Thank you everyone It looks like a new tank is required

Hi All Some info please from the experienced members Ever since I purchased the boat when I turn on any taps or shower the water pump immediately sounds and starts pumping, Am I right in thinking that since I have an accumulator tank there should be a delay in the pump starting and in theory you should be able to wash your hands without noise every time. I had a look at the tank yesterday and unscrewed the black cap to reveal an inflation valve like you would find on a bike. I pressed the top to see if there was any air in the tank and water squirted out. Should this happen or is the tank knackered and a new one required. Cheers

Bottom to Bottom as far as I know

The tank sizes are in the boats documentation and also the sizes and I have checked the volume using the sizes with an online calculator I havnt dipped the tank as I dont think theres a straight drop into the tank Theres are fuel cocks on each tank plus a drain valve I will check the breather outlets when the weather improves slightly I would imagine that the gauge would in reality only read from one tank and would assume that both are level

Also there's a filler on either side

Yes Tony both sides have a breather on them on the outside

Good morning all I am looking for advice please as I seem to be having issues with the capacity for fuel for my stove. I have two 48l tanks on either side of the boat that only feed the diesel fire. Now the last time I filled up (last week) it only took something like 30l to fill. This is on the back of my fuel guage showing that the tank was empty and then showing full once the fuel had gone in I can only think that there's an issue with the equalisation of the tanks.i know there's a drain channel under the floor in between the 2 tanks could this get sludged up on any way. To confuse matters more the fire is directly fed by the tank on the opposite side if where the fuel was filled Thanks

For me its about understanding what does what as I am new to boating in general I will most likely do a mixture of everything from 1 day to 10 days when we cruise. For example I have on board 1 x shoreline 12v/240v fridge and the same in the freezer. When I an running through the victron invertor and using the tv will the fridge and freezer still be running on 12v or will they switch to mains 240v.

Ok thanks everyone I will give it a go

I have been on touch with the previous owner asking what the situation is regarding the back boiler and his reply was that he has had it turned off due to the continuous clonking on and off especially at night. I have no idea what he means by that but I am slightly worried in case I boil over the back boiler or continously run down my batteries when I eventually go CCing

Yes theres an electrical wire going from the thermostat attached to the 22mm cooper pipe at the rear of the fire

The reason I said heat exchanger is because on the boats paperwork it mention the heat exchanger in the location I can hear it. I have a seperate switch for the central heating p pump unless it has 2 pumps.

If I was to set the temp to the highest setting am I not more at risk of the back boiler from boiling

Hi All I am after a bit of advice again from you if you dont mind. I have a diesel bubble pie pod fire with a back boiler. On the outlet pipe theres a thermostat and I am lead to believe when this hits the set temp the heat exchanger kicks in. I can actually hear this kick in by altering the temp stat myself. My dilemma is when I am running the gravity fed fire this consumes no electricity but when the heat exchanger kicks in is this using battery power or is it in someway like a bi metalic system. To save comments from people who say best advice rip it out and put a muli fuel stove in that isnt happening as I am happy with the fire but need advice re power consumption all advice welcome