Broughton 2

Thanks guys. This Numpty will wire in a filament type lamp (3W) in the manner Chris described, it seems simplest (talk of bi-directional LED's and the like is quite beyond me). Alan

Thanks Chris, I like the idea of adding a second lamp. Can you say how it must be wired in? Bear in mind I know nowt so keep it simple. Alan

As I am about to buy a Sterling alternator to Battery Charger your report was of concern so I contacted Sterling and asked if there was/is a problem with this equipment. My note to Sterling and their reply is as follows:- My note. "As I intend(ed?) coupling two alternators to a 1260 Charger the below statement about such arrangement causes concern ( www.canalworld.net/equipment ). I shall be grateful if you will say whether or not there is or has been a reliability issue when coupling two alternators to Sterling alternator to Battery Chargers (or has the person who wrote the statement just been unlucky?)." Charles Sterling (Sterling Power Products Ltd.) reply. "There is no problem doing this, i am afraid the guy did not read his instructions about alternators which do not fire up, there is a small ignition feed to cure this problem built into the unit.. also a simple phone call to us would have poinyed him in the right direction to fixed this . I suggest you contact Sterling for the "small ignition feed to cure this problem" and then hopefully all will be resolved. Shall be gratefull if you will say what engine you have as my Beta engine also has two alternators (70W and 40W) and possibly I may have same issue when I connect the Sterling unit. Finally, how do you know when one of the two alternators does not fire up? I only have a single warning lamp, not one lamp for each.

Seems I now have all information req'd (?). Many thanks to all who contributed.

Tried searching the site but no luck. Can anyone advise me of the correct spec'n for AC 230 V ring main wire on a boat (C.S.A & No of strands)? I'm aware that if the wire is too stiff it may fracture through vibration, but more than that I know not.

I'm interested in same topic and have a short list of three; (1) Little Wenlock, (2) Brunel 1a and (3) Franco Belge Belfort. She who must be obeyed likes the Belfort 'cus it can be had in ivory enamel finish. Any comments would be welcomed.

Thanks Chris, I shall be buying batteries for my fit-out soon and appreciate comment that 135AH are best value. Sometime ago I was advised 6V batteries (coupled in series to give 12V) may also be better value than equivalent 12V. Care to comment on relative performance, value, problems, whatever?

Thanks Chris but "Inspection cover", I wish! Just 'cos it's stainless the maker deemed inspection cover not necessary. If I were having a new tank made I'd spend the extra shilling and definitely have one.

"Tanks need disinfection". I picked up on that comment as I have a stainless tank that hasn't been disinfected for over 12 months and am considiering doing so (still fitting-out the boat and though the tank is full of water it is not in use). A search on this site was interesting and the merits of using chlorine, Milton or bleach to disinfect have been discussed. One discussion seemed to come to an end when it was pointed out that our tap water anyway is already generally chlorinated, the inference being that there is possibly no need to add further disinfectant. If that is the case then for how long would chlorinated tap water be effective in preventing nasty things growing in the tank? Any ideas?

In my experience the ladies mainly use them to fend-off the men! However, when fitted with a soft head, so as not to mark paintwork, is there any reason why not a boat?

That's the one for me then!

If nothing else I now know the difference between flue and chimney (I'll bet Santa knew all along). For that and other helpful tips many thanks. As you say, the chimney fits over the outside of the collar. As a consequence any tar (creosote?) that forms in the chimney runs down and leaks out onto the roof leaving a nasty stain. Might it be a good idea to have a chimney with an internal drip collar that would route the tar down the flue and into the fire? Do you know if there is such a thing? Of course the internal drip collar should not be a fit on the flue.

No substitute for an ash pole when serious work is in hand but I additionally have a couple aluminium telescopic poles that are light in weight and the ladies may use use for occassional fending-off. They can be very conveniently stored inside the boat.

Many thanks to all who contributed. Using a jig saw to cut the chimney hole seems quicker than drilling a chain of holes but I must say I've tried jig sawing through 5mm plate and not had much joy. the thinner roof plate (3mm?) may be OK though. I'll try it. Roof lining is in place so the plasma cutter is non runner (why do I do so many things in the wrong order?). Excellent idea to fabricate a large metal drawer to collect hot stuff falling out the stove. Will certainly do that. Dog-leg I understand and necessary if the chimney is to be vertical above the roof line. Best way to make an effective seal around the chimney where it passes through the roof is still a bit of a mystery (to me). I suppose we must seal between the chimney and roof collar and yet allow for expansion/contraction movement. Some suggest using fire cement/ ceramic cement but don't those things set hard and therefore either crack or not allow much movement? High temp silicone sounds better. Further comments would be welcome Hearth materials and construction ideas all very useful. Brunel 1A shortcommings seem livable with so will probably stick with it. Her indoors "must have" a stove with enamel finish (posh or what?). As a newcomer to the forum I'm finding it a cheerful place to visit and full of good practical information. I bought a sailaway and this is my first fit-out of a boat so it's just what I need. Again, thanks to all. Alan

I'm fitting-out and have got to the stage where I'm considering how to fit the stove (Brunel 1A unless anyone has adverse comments). Never done this before and shall be grateful for all advice on how to go about the job. Things like; best way to cut the chimney hole in the roof, how to seal the chimney yet give it sufficient movement for expansion/contraction, methods and materials for fire protection of adjacent wall and hearth. Are there any Boat Safety Scheme must do's? Possible someone has raised this topic before but I had no joy with the site search engine.

I'm not a 'lectrician (strictly wind up, me) but I'm led to believe that for the same charging regime the larger the battery bank the longer it will take to charge fully. Time taken to re-charge is your problem isn't it? Though a large bank (4 x 120ah) will last longer than say 3 x 110ah you may find the time taken to charge it is not acceptable to you. If you have not already got some form of advanced charging system then that's where you might look first. I suggest you go to Stirling web site and read up about batteries and charging systems before buying anything. http://www.sterling-power.com/products-altbatt.htm

Thanks Pearley. Seems like a room stat could indeed operate the Webasto if wired in place of your on/off switch. Do you know if the 12V in and neg are direct to battery or through Webasto wiring somehow? Also where the 12V out is wired to?

Chris I appreciate your help and look forward to your comments in a couple of weeks time. Alan

Thanks Chris. I assume a room stat could be somehow wired in to do that but how? When it reaches the off time setting does a Webasto clock timer send a signal the burner to begin it's purge program? If so then could it be the signal is simply loss of current from the timer (but not loss of power to the burner) and if so then same loss of current from a stat would do same provided the stat is wired to same connection(s) at the burner as would be the timer? I'm guessing of course! Alan

Has anyone out there run a Webasto (Thermo Top C) or Eberspacher water heater through a simple on/off switch and room stat for central heating application? If so then how did you get on with it? I'm interested to know mostly because I would prefer not to run the webasto water pump when it's not really necessary, i.e when a set room temp is achieved and no further heating is required. I believe Webasto Air Top heaters can be run through a room stat. so why not Thermo Top?