Bojangles
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Posts posted by Bojangles
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I tend to agree with Willawaw, boat builders are plagued with 'tyre-kickers', what are you looking for anyway, a boat builder or a marketing man in a smart suit.
Hardly a tyre kicker when I've bought four new boats over the years but I've also suffered the same ignorant negligence suffered by the OP.
Where do get your assumption a "marketing man in a smart suit" is expected by an enquirer? I really think you are reaching wrong conclusions, perhaps based on your own requirements?
All that is expected is a polite, helpful and informative answer to an initial enquiry.
If a boat builder doesn't want enquiries by email, phone or snail mail why is he not honest and state in his advertisment 'personal callers only'. Which then means he has to interrupt his work schedule to deal with visitors and unable to prioritise his workload.
Such a builder has poor business management as it is far more effective to deal with an initial enquiry in the evening by phone or email etc. Also if a builder doesn't know how to effectively sift out 'tyre kickers' without ignoring every enquiry his business will be doomed to failure. He must face that consequence or employ somebody to deal with initial enquiries informatively and politely - hardly rocket science.
In business, no sales = no money = failure. This is being proved by the recent closures of some boat builders. Perhaps these builders would have not suffered their demise if they had dealt with their initial sales enquiries promptly and courteously.
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After weeks of comparing web sites of builders I e-mailed 4 of the ones I liked with an initial enquiry for a guide price and time slot.
Replies, None!
Duztee.
This seems typical of widebeam and narrowboat builders. In the past I have done the same kind of research as yourself then emailed, snail mailed and telephoned boat builders. Many ignore your enquiry and you wonder why the hell they bother to waste their money advertising.
If they ignore your initial contact, when they should be trying to get your business then can you expect them also to perform negligently once they've got your money and building your boat .
My advice is if they ignore your enquiry do not consider doing any business with them unless you are a masochist.
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Someone I know has said on the deeds of their boat, it says they own 64/64th of boat and blow me someone else has said they own 1/64th of the boat they live on.
Has anyone got any idea what this means please?
Wendy
A registered vessel is divided into 64ths and is possibly attributed, to the fact that ships traditionally had 64 ribs or the fact that under Queen Victoria ship owners were taxed 36% and left with the remaining 64%.
Therefore owning the 64 shares equates to owning the whole vessel.
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I need to do some coach lines and need to get hold of the plastic masking tape
Normal tape allows the paint to creep under the tape giving a poor effect when removed!
Anybody know?-Thanks
If you do a google for 'fine line masking tape' I think you'll find what you're looking for.
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I think I'm going to try the peel ply method. Am I correct in assuming that the 'weave' of the mat needs filling in with several coats of resin prior to the final application of resin through the peel ply, or can I apply the peel ply immediately over the top of the wetted out CSM and then apply a thick coat of resin through the peel ply in an attempt to get a smooth finish in one coat?
Oh one final question - is using peel ply any harder (for an amateur like me) than rolling on gel coat?
I would apply the peel ply immediately over the wetted out CSM and I doubt whether you'll have to apply much more ( if any) resin. Work any excess resin thru the peel ply. You can easily see the peel ply getting wet as it becomes a darker colour. The peel ply will help to hold the resin in a flat surface, even if vertical.
If you feel you're not getting a smooth enough finish on the CSM you could try mixing a few 'micro-fibres', which are actually chopped up cellulose cotton fibres, into your resin mix. This will bulk up your mix and also act more as a filler
If you're unsure about the system or the epoxy adhesion to your CSM why not try a test piece first on a scrap piece of ply before proceeding any further.
I don't know if peel ply or rolling on a gel coat would be easier for you. On a flat surface may be gel coat would be easy but cabin sides if you painted the gel coat thick enough to cover the CSM strands I think you'd get 'curtains'. We used to have a sprayer nicknamed 'curtains'. lols
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Thanks Bojangles, that was very helpful.
With regards to the peel ply, can it be applied over the top of the CSM immediately after it has been wetted out or should the weave of the CSM be filled out with several layers of epoxy before applying the peel ply?
We've never sheathed hulls, cabins etc where it will be on show, using CSM . We always used either woven or bi-axial, tri-axial etc.
The peel ply is a cloth and placed over the epoxy saturated glass. Then with a pliable scraper any excess epoxy is worked thru the peel ply. This should leave the peel ply smooth without wrinkles. When the epoxy has gone off you tear off the peel ply and the woven cloth will have a smooth finish ready for painting. If the surface is looked at very carefully you will find the surface is very very slightly 'pin pricked'. This ensures good adhesion of any following painting. The peel ply can be left on the cured epoxy for months if so required. We used to sheath sole boards then bulid the boat before tearing off all of the peel ply. If you want to bond another item to a peel plied surface just mark the area with a sharp stanley knife and tear off a piece of peel ply to allow the bonding.
Times have moved on and materials may have changed but we were told when epoxying to never use CSM that was for produced for ordinary fibreglassing using polyester resin . That CSM has a fine white powder on the strands ( cannot be seen by eye) which enables the polyester resin to adhere to the strands but this white powder rejects epoxy. We were told only ever to use e-glass, which is not coated with the powder. If offered a roll of cheap e-glass , ensure it has never been wet/damp as the epoxy will not adhere.
Hope this helps you
PS. To fully answer your question. However many layers of glass you want to apply try not let a layer fully cure before applying the next layer. Wet a layer then lay on next cloth layer and wet thru etc etc till all the layers are wetted thru, then apply peel ply. If you do let a layer cure any subsequent layer will only achieve a mechanical bond rather than the much stronger chemical bond.
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The professional way to finish off epoxy sheathing is with 'Peelply'. This is a silicone impregnated material that you cover the final epoxy coat with and squeegy any excess epoxy thru. Then when all gone off you peel off this material leaving a good finish for painting etc.
This WEST EPOXY guide from Robbins you may find a useful on how to epoxy sheath.
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Where did you get the cash for your narrowboat exactly?
Sounds like a question from HMRC
I bought mine for a tenner at a boot sale, sir
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The traffic lights at Brewery gut at Reading work very well.
Sue
Except when the local 'idiots' vandalise the lights to show green at both ends, then sit and watched their entertainment
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It has been said before but it is worth repeating: Many of us were attracted to the inland waterways because it offered a calm, unhurried and pleasant lifestyle. Sadly just as everywhere else in society, the canals now seem to be attracted a sector that want to get everywhere in a hurry, enjoy embarrassing others by using foul language, see no wrong in being rude and inconsiderate (at all times) and, above all, enjoy forcing their oathish and bullying lifestyle on the rest of us.
My only hope is that they will soon find that the waterways lack the stimulation that they demand and that they all will return to their noisy cars and race round the M25 instead . . .
Well said
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There's a good value carvery for £3.50 at the Radford Bank, Mon - Sat inc. That's at bridge 98 on the Staffs & Worcs. Good moorings and walk up the steps over the bank and you're there within 30 secs. We often call in, might see you there?
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A Kevin Bellair builds boats under the name ' Floating Homes ' at Peterborough. Might be the same guy?
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To all of you that responded thankyou very much for your helpful replies. I feel we're now in with a chance of silencing the singing.
Jack
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Have you seen this previous thread ?
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php...ging++propellor
Thanks Alan for your help and the link which is exactly the prob I'm having
When I do searches I never seem to put in the correct search criteria and therefore I hadn't seen the info
.Cheers Jack
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I've just launched a new 55' N/b with a Barrus 40hp Shire engine with PRM box and propeller as recommended by Barrus. Between 1100 and 1300 revs the propeller whines, or I think some say 'sings'. Below and above these revs there's just the normal prop wash noise.
Currently I 'm cruising at 1000 revs, which is fine. But if I want a bit more power I get this horrible whine.
Can anybody tell what generally causes this noise and hopefully how it can be stopped.
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Please tell me if I'm understanding this thread correctly.
I can get a USB modem from either T-mob or 3 at around £10 - £15 a month that will allow me to connect to the internet without having to find any other ISP or phone line etc. Therefore if I got one I can use it at home on my desktop and use the same USB modem in my laptop when on the boat etc.
Currently it's costing me £8.99/month for an unlimited dial-up access at home. Therefore it would seem to me wise to change. Are there any other charges/fees I'm not aware of?
I don't download any music or videos so I guess a 3gb service will be plenty for me?
All info appreciated.
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I've just bought one off Ebay. The seller has 100% feedback so should be ok.
At £16 inc p&p it seems a very good price if you want a pre-mix valve.
All been sold now ! Hope some of you got one
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A brilliant guide Stuart.
Even a non leccy person like me can understand your guide and I'm sure I could fit one.
So the ammeter will tell me what power the alternator is putting into the battery , does that also include via the alternator controller a Sterling DAR?. The ammeter will also show me what power I'm consuming; all very useful info.
Is there another meter I can install which will tell me, at any time, how much available power I have in the batteries? To me it's like how much diesel I have in the tank before I run out. Sorry if it's a stupid question
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I've just bought one off Ebay. The seller has 100% feedback so should be ok.
At £16 inc p&p it seems a very good price if you want a pre-mix valve.
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Have we asked a silly question everyone as no one out of over 30 people has replied?
Thank you.
You might get a reply now. Rugby just finished. Well done England.
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May be possible to use the battery temperature monitoring to monitor the alternator too.
A thermal switch on the alternator and a resistor across the battery temperature monitor might do it (if sensor is 'NTC')
So when alternator gets too hot it makes the controller think the battery has overheated and shut itself down.
cheers,
Pete.
Wow Pete - I wish I knew what you were talking about. This sounds like 'rocket science' to me
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The DAR will do the same job as the PDAR and both do a great job. The PDAR has a couple of advantages though, in that there is a remote display available which IMHO is well worth having, rather than having to check LED status lights down by the batteries somewhere.
Secondly, the PDAR also incorporates alternator temperature monitoring and auto shut-down (in the event of overheating). Both types have battery temperature monitoring.
Chris
Thanks Chris - that's good to know. At least I haven't bought a bit of kit useless to me.
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I'm looking at the 'A to B charger' because i'm looking at splitting the charge from 2 x 70A alternators
With 50 & 110 alternators you can keep things simple and just buy a regulator to get the best from the 110A for your domestic bank.
Thanks Scotty. I'll get on the phone to MC. Cheers for the advice
Time now 17:29 and bought one. So please don't anyone tell me now I shouldn't have
Double glazing
in Living Afloat
Posted
Seems like a good reason to use the domestic framed d/glazed units but with the fenestration to suit a canal boat.