Billy72

Thanks Tony I have tried the screwdriver bridging the terminals, there are sparks but little else. What and where is the master switch? also if batteries were an issue I have has a genny running into the charger for about 30 mins but still not turning over. light goes out when key is turned in the ignition. is there is anything else I can bypass?

I'll ask them nicely...maybe they'll help! A starter light, then a click but no ignition. Could that still be battery related - even of the light comes on?

Hi, Anyone know about Lister LS2 starter motors / transmissions. My boat won't fire up and I'm stuck at Alperton on Paddington arm of the GUC. If anyone is passing by tomorrow who is a bit handy at trouble shooting old transmissions and starter motors - let me know! Or maybe a tow to packetboat -it's only a wee 35ft boat! Turning the key and nothing happens. Engine is fine and was running great yesterday. I think it must be transmission. Is there a way to jump start / hot wire an old lister? Any tips welcome! Thanks. Billy

Thanks Paul, If Frouds bridge is a bit heavy duty for day cruising (locks and swing bridge) - can you recommend any marinas beyond, though not too far beyond Newbury? Thanks Billy

Hi all, I am considering moving my boat from Uxbridge to the K&A. The thinking is to get the boat out into the countryside and enjoy the views! Couple of questions that it would be great to get answers for: How long should I allow to get onto the K&A from Uxbridge / bottom of the GU? I have a 37ft narrow boat - any pointers on taking it up the Thames from Brentford to Reading? I'm currently looking at Frouds Bridge Marina as a mooring option - it's about an hour from my house (West London) and seems like its it a nice spot - any reports? Alternatives? Thanks for any advice you can offer. Billy

Genius!!! Thank you!

Piggybacks? does that mean the 'mains' power connects to the + / - terminals along with the blue and grey core from the 4 core lead? Just shove them both on? any adaptor or terminal extension needed?

Sorry, being super dumb. Presumably the + / - core from the circuit also connects to the compressor? In that case, I would assume that the wall cable connects to the + - on the compressor, but as you have it, the lead from the fridge connects to these points (the ones as the upper section of the sequence on the compressor. The only terminals left on your config are F and P - I don't think the mains connects to those? Can you help on where the mains power from the patter supply should connect to?

chris, that is so helpful, thank you. One last dumb question: If all those wires connect to the compressor, what connects to the power supply from the wall / 12v circuit? as i understand it, both leads are connected to the compressor, which means i need another lead to connect up the power? thanks again!

Thanks Tony. I can't understand what colour wires would go on what terminals...any ideas? also, if I have a separate power lead for the battery connection, I think that takes care of first + / - But the compressor terminal? I think it may be that brown (+) connects to C / Blue (-) to T / What about the grey and black wires? connect to (+) and (D)? Thanks mate. I can't understand what colour wires would go on what terminals...any ideas? also, if I have a separate power lead for the battery connection, I think that takes care of first + / - But the compressor terminal? I think it may be that brown (+) connects to C / Blue (-) to T / What about the grey and black wires? connect to (+) and (D)?

Hi everyone, I have a Lec 50mm (12V fridge). I received it with all the wiring at the back of the unit disconnected, meaning that the wires that connect to the danfoss compressor are not connected and I have no idea what order they should go in? Anyone got a Lec fridge connected to a danfoss compressor who could put me right? I've looked at the wiring diagrams from Danfoss, but they don't make sense to me and don't take into account the fridge model. Lec no longer stock the unit in question and have no schematics of how it should hook up. Itfi get it wrong i may blow the fridge of the electrics (well short them, anyway!) The Danfoss compressor is a BD35F and the LEC is an R45M. The lec has two main leads coming from the back of the unit. A white lead with two wires Brown (+) and Blue (-) for power - I think. Then there is a black lead that has four wires that should connect to the compressor: Brown (+), Blue (-), Grey (?) and black (?) The 8 terminals on the compressor are: + _ + F D C P T Four wires, 8 terminals...you decide! It's a bit like the Hurt Locker but without the suit! Thanks for all help! Billy

Thanks Steve, Is it correct that the bilge water should be able to make its way along the length of the hull? It's up to about half way up on my boat (only a small amount) Some of that is down to the fact that the weight distribution is a bit wonky as the ballast is all over the place due to the clean. Also - the ballast (paving) is soaked in oil. I have experimented with putting the paving in rubble sacks and sealing them to keep the small back. What do you reckon? The only other option I can think of is to jetwash them, but that presents some logistical problem. Rubble sacks for a quicker fix? There is something slightly odd about putting paving stones in bags!! Billy

I have a 36ft 1969 Harborough Marine, recently bought with a full hull overplating job carried out four years ago. On buying the boat, I noticed a considerate diesel / oil smell but thought a good clean and a switch to mooring mains power (a genny was used previously) would do the trick in getting rid of the smell...general fumes. It turns out (unfortunately) that the source of the smell is a combination of an old engine oil leak and bilge water that has crept up the length of the hull, between the old hill and the new overplating. Basically, the old hull has rotted away and what lies beneath the ballast is combo of old hull, mud, bilge, condensation and a lot of oil. Loverly! The new hull beneath is sound - surveyed etc. I am currently removing the old hull by hand (yes, it is a truly dirty job), but I have some questions that I hope the forum could help with: Do you know of any good products for breaking down oil / cleaning? Also to get rid of the smell? Is this a job anyone else has carried out? Any tips? Is the old hull normally removed when overplating is carried out? Where, typically, are the points where the new hull is welded to the old infrastructure? Should I be careful when scraping away!! Am I mad to do this? Should I be concerned about the weight that is coming off the boay by removing the old hull? Is there normally a plate / barrier across the beam of the hull between the (trad) engine housing and the rest of the cabin, or should bilge be able to pass up the length of the boat Any tips on disposing of oily water? I want to avoid tipping it down the drain! So many questions, such little time (-: Billy