RobinJ
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Posts posted by RobinJ
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I bet the alternator was connected to the engine battery rather than the domestic.
As with most split charge relay systems, aternator direct to starter!
Sounds like the relay was closed while the engine was cranking, and pulling starter current from the domestic bank through the relay, not really what a split charge relay is supposed be for.
I think it was more like the domestic's were flat and when the relay kicked in, more current flowed from starter to domestic than the cable could handle!
I had not considered the advantages/disadvantages on connecting the alternator direct to the domestic!
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If the max draw from a BMC 1.8 is 75amps, why do you recommend a relay rated to 180amp? Surely a 100amp unit would suffice?
Is it ok to bolt a relay unto the engine? (ie between plugs and positive terminal on solenoid) or is engine vibration an issue?
When fitting split charge relays, people always look at what the alternator is capable of delivering, they forget that when you connect 110A batteries together, under some circumstances you can get a lot more current (even if only for a short time), hence the bigger the better!
I found this out when I started the engine one morning and fried the wiring on the split charge relay (boat was like that when I bought it), if I hadn't fried the wiring, I would have fried the relay, now I have a bigger relay and the right wiring!
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Do you remember how many different wire sizes you ended up with? Ignoring the starter cables, I think you generally end up with three different sizes
Richard
I agree, mostly to simplify things, you round sizes up, so you end up with about 3 sizes overall!
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Do have some loom info for 1.5, based on AMC setup with ISS instruments?
I found it easier to start from scratch and calculate lengths, sizes and connections, based on location, and power required, especially as I was fitting different oil pressure and alternator etc,!
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Engine not too well since last year, stalling in neutral when warm?
1) Fuel problem, so have it polished!
Tank nice and clean no sign of water, no sign of bug?
2) Nice clean fuel, next change the filters!
How do you get this grippy thing to remove the filter when there is a skin tank on one side and engine bearers on the other. You unbolt the filter housing, disconnect the pipes and stick the whole thing in a vice, great, piece of cake, fit new filter, bolt it all back up!
Move on to the canister, oh dear, how do I get these seals off without standing on my head in the bilge. You unbolt the whole filter housing, disconnect the pipes, turn it upside down, so you can see what your doing, great, piece of cake, fit new filter, bolt it all back up!
Now, I'm sure it shouldn't be that hard to prime the system? It fires up nicely, but why does it rev like that without the throttle? At least the engine stop works!
Back to basics, follow them pipes, something's not right? Tank - water separator - lift pump - fuel filter - injector pump, aha! Why is the inlet to the filter coming from the bit where the throttle goes?
Yep, them fuel pipes are sneaky beggars, turn your back for a second and them swap em selves over!
3) Don't need to have injector pump checked.
4) Don't need to see if valves are sticking.
5) Need to change filters more frequently.
6) Need to paint inlut and outlet pipes different colours!
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I make that 75 litres per second, I think...? ( 1.5 * 3000 / 60)
According to my calculator its 750? (or with below 375!)
But it would be half that, I think, as it's a four stroke engine and so it needs two revolutions to ingest and expell the air equivalent to the engine capacity.
Well done, full marks for spotting that one!
Either way that assumes its 100% efficient which, as Tony pointed out, it's not.
Its not the efficiency I was concerned about, but the total air flow, since what gets sucked in, ends up pushed through the exhaust, whether involved in combustion or not!
I am never clear whether more air is sucked in or less (due to the opening and closing of the valves which flushes the exhaust?)
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If my maths and understanding of the engine is right....
At 1500 RPM, it's 1,125,000 cc per minute, or 1.125m^3.
Bearing in mind it could get up to 3000 rpm, then it would be double, however, despite it being water cooled, some circulation is also needed, and convection around the engine compartment will help to keep batteries, gearbox and other items cool!
Otherwise, you have a big radiator in a small room with the door shut!
1.5l per rev., at 3000 rpm is 750l per second, I would then double that and try and make sure it comes in the clean side (away form the exhaust) and goes out the other!
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It might be worth a try flushing it by mixing 50/50 Paraffin and ATF go for a a gentle trip for half hour then drain and install fresh ATF. This should clean out any muck or possibly metal swarf that might be making it stick.
It is worth trying this, as we found a problem with a box that had been left standing and something had been depositied on the shaft from the oil (this case ATF) and was jamming the dogs! (took about 3 or 4 rinses to get rid of the black deposits)
Also when was the oil last changed or level checked, it could be getting low or thick and taking time to work in cold weather?
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Took my boat out yesterday for the first time this year just for a couple of hours to make sure that everything was running ok after its winter lay up Did all of the usual checks befor setting off i.e oil, water ect after 30mins
of cruising the engine cut out and wouldn,t restart, managed to moore up lifted the deckboards to take a look. to my horror the engine bay was full of what I thought was white smoke, it turned out to be steam the engine had overheated and spewed out most of its water. My first thoughts were cylinder head gone. I let the engine cool down and refilled it with warm water it took about 2 kettle fulls + about 3-4 pints of coolant to bring it up to level
I then restarted the engine and it kicked in first time. I had about a hours run back to my Marina I took my time and left the deck boards up so that I could keep my eye on it. she ran fine and I rechecked the water levels on my return and everything was fine.
Even checking the water level can be misleading if the engine has stood for a while, when the engine last cooled down, the vacuum could have sucked air in through a small leak, creating an air lock in the cooling system. This is even more of a problem with large changes in temperature, or if there is any chance the coolant could have frozen and put strain on hoses etc.
Run the engine with the cap off, to see whether it is circulating or the level goes down after starting!
Check the hoses, thermostat housing, anything quite high up on the engine (calorifier connections) which could result in air getting in!
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I just cleaned out the oil bilge under the engine using sawdust-It worked very well!-That was on Friday-I looked at the bilge today and there is oil in it again about half the area 1/2 cm aprox-is this normal? Thanks for any advice.
There are a number of areas where you can get a leak, bottom up!
Sometimes sump bolts can work loose and oil seep from the sump rim, same applies to sump plug or pump adaptor if fitted?
An old engine can have wear on the crankshaft oil seal, if happening, generally drips from the bellhousing? It may be worth checking the timing chain cover too, to see if that gasket is leaking or oil is seeping from behind the pulley?
The next point up is the fuel pump and tappet covers, sometimes oil seeps out where these are fitted, also check breather pipe if fitted?
If fitted with an oil cooler, any of the pipe joints can leak?
We are now if the area of leaks only when running!
Sometimes BMC's spray oil from the air intake, because of blowback or blocked breather?
Rocker cover and oil filler cap not sealed properly can result in oil seaping out?
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What is the above? Just done the fuel filters - that's been on a year, since I ran dry and had to change the old one which was like that but much much worse (to the point that the nanni wouldn't run).
Looks suspiciously more rusty than diesel buggy!
Hopefully it is just stuff from the bottom of the tnak that has got sucked up.
But would take the opportunity to clean up the fuel and tank so as not to waste those nice new filters!
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My boat has a very nice wood lining inside - a light wood with what looks like a satin varnish. Unfortunately some time in the past some water has leaked in a couple of places and left white streaks. Anyone know of a way of removing it without having to strip back the whole area - someone mentioned a wood bleach but I've never come across that before.
When water gets into wood it tends to turn it black, if its not waterlogged, merely damp, then it will end up looking grey!
(I think this is something to do with stuff in the wood - tannin like coffee? - which is oxidised?)
Anyway, if its actually white, it might just be where the varnish has lifted? Polyurethane varnishes tend to do this especially, but they are more difficult to clean off and patch up!
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I recently had a problem with our old 70amp domestic alternator and beta controller. The alternator burnt out and the controller was also damaged. I have obtained an Iskra IA1069 100a alternator by way of a replacement. I understand that I will have to tidy up and remove the old Beta Controller and its associated wiring. Could anyone supply information on the correct wiring configuration to use the Iskra alternator without the need for the beta controller.
Would not the simplest thing to do - be wire it up straight to the domestic batteries, with a separate warning light if required, so its own regulator does the job?
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On the fire?
Some of the advice on this forum...OK, I didn't mean actually 'on' the fire, but on top of the fire as in 'where the kettle goes'.
Although come to think of it, it hasn't boiled! I need to light it too
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Why didn't I think of that!
Still,I'm here now, and will need to make the best of it.
Heat gun, but expensive on power!
Put the tins on the fire and brush on hot!
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After careful examination, it appears that the positives are green and yellow, whereas the negatives are yellow and green
Are you sure?
I thought I saw some black!
Maybe he slipped with the paint brush
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That appears to be a spare bracket for a fuel filter. The 'smoke' must be coming from something near to that rather than that bit itself
Correct, the bracket is where the normal CAV diesle filter is bolted.
The bracket is held on with a couple of bolts, one of them in the vicinity is a head bolt.
Three possibilities?
1) The head is cracked and steam or combustion products are escaping from a crack (possibly associated with a bolt hole!
2) The rocker cover is not sealed properly and 'oil' vapour is escaping!
3) The calorifier take off has a leak and stema is spaying out!
Can't think of anything else?
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When the batteries are being charged, SG can't really tell how quickly since it just "sees" the behaviour of the charging system. There is an element of just counting up at a certain rate. Once the charge stops, the SG "sees" the real battery behaviour and after a while, it may adjust its reading. Gibbo has mentioned this in the past. My guess is that you have a fairly powerful charging system and during the bulk phase, the batteries are charging faster than the SG is counting up. I certainly notice that the SG lags behind the AH-counting meter during charging with our 175A alternator, during the early part of the charge.
Not really, SG is pretty good at coping with measuring "on load", unless you mean during charging.
I thought SG was 'sort of predictive', in that it could calculate charge and discharge rates, but if hit with a sudden charge or discahrge that was unusual, it 'as you say' lead or lagged?
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There are no BSS issues so perhaps we can short circuit that part of the conversation.
Except that a flexible coupling has to meet the standard!
As far as I know there are all three sizes of flexible pipe available, (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"? I think), problem will be finding somewhere that keeps them!
Trick is to avois as many joints as possible, so two compression fittings, one at each end (even if reducing) should do.
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yes, normal, after discharging a battery it will recover. Also the Smartgauge is not accurate whilst charging.
Also, since the measurements were presumably 'on load' that makes a difference too?
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hello all does anyone know how to reset an hour counter on a isuzu control panel
The thing about hour counters is, generally there not reset!
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Actually I have met quite a few people who believe that the oil pressure light measures oil level rather than oil pressure!, though I suppose it does detect low oil level in a bad sort of way.
Actually! Its more likely to come on at high revs with low oil, as most of it gets sucked up into the engine that quickly, the pump runs out and the oil light comes on!
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the oil pressure warning light/buzzer has started to come on at idle. It's ok with some rpm on and when cold but once warm as soon as i put it in idle the warning sounds.
Any ideas, sender unit? oil pump?
It's a vetus M4.14
What oil is in it?
Does it match with the reccomended?
I picked up some CF by mistake and I had the same problem!
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The first time, when I did the job myself I just filled it through the expansion bottle.
Since then, it has always been filled by removing the top hose to the skin tank, filling that and then reconnecting to do the rest.
Is it time to have a good go at the whole system?
If you were to take the bottom hose off the skin tank and the water was pretty rusty, it may indicate it needs flushing!
Also you could find out whether any air is trapped in there?
Disconnecting the top hose you could then fill the engine up and check water is flowing through to the tank (although this would be against the flow of the pump)?
Air trapped in a system can cause peculiar problems, and generally collects in one position (in my case at the rear of the engine at the calorifier take off). The question is whether the air is from trapped air during filling, air being sucked in during cooling or combustion gases from a blown gasket or cracked head?
Some of the advice on this forum...
beta38 charging problem
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Is it one of the red ones!
Where does the main cable from the alternator go, isolator or direct to battery?
The red isolators can wear, you can usually get a response by pushing the key in. As they wear they tend to arc and make matters worse!
If alternator wired direct to battery, isolator would not make any difference - this presumably also means ignition doesn't go though isolator either?