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Steveb1312

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tamworth

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  • Occupation
    Window tinter/ sign writer
  • Boat Name
    Solace
  • Boat Location
    Tamworth

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  1. Yes this would be a good idea are they compatible for the old type square controllers.
  2. Hi again, so this time I’m wanting to extend the controller cables and move the panel to a new area. Is it easy enough to switch to the newer style controllers are the connections the same? Alternatively could I add an additional on/off switch of some type at the front of the boat leaving the original panel where it is? if this is possible anyone know the wires I need to use for switching the unit on/off and would it mean I have 2 sources to switch the heater on ?
  3. No I’m grabbing some tomorrow and will put it in whilst I swap the pipes round that I mixed up. Here’s hoping that it’s trouble free for a while again now. Is there any specific type to put in, there are plastic push fittings and copper to the rads.
  4. Right sussed it out finally. I disconnected the Webasto pipes and ran them straight to a bucket of cold water and worked a treat perfect so Webasto is not the issue. I tried to flush through the inlet pipe and the flow coming out the return pipe was poor. Then tried flushing through the return pipe and the flow out the inlet side was much better but still not great. After this I left both these pipes open and into a large container and opened the radiator the furthest away from the Webasto and flushed via hose pipe this cleaned quite a bit of rusty water out. Opening each valve on the radiator cleaned both the return and the inlet side and refitted all pipes. Now seems to be working ok however I am running in the opposite direction to usual which doesn’t appear to be an issue but I will run it as it is for a day or so then swap it round again. So far so good
  5. Yes sorry wat I mean is that the Webasto is pumping but the flow isn’t quick enough if I put a hose on one of the 2 pipes surely a nice steady flow should come out the other pipe? this isn’t happening it’s just trickling out the return or vice versa. also the pipe reduces from 22m to 15mm on the inlet and return so I presume it’s not flushing all the way through so to go from the opposite end of the system and flush out towards the pipes on the Webasto unit. can I flush from the top connector on one of the radiators and just open each valve in turn flushing backwards or would this cause any issues.?
  6. Definately no air in system, and when I dine this the water literally was only trickling and it wasn’t flowing very well at all. Just curious as to wether I can seal the header for the purpose of forcing the flow round the pipes I’m gna have to go from the very last radiator I think a send it out from that way as it just won’t clear from the unit in either direction.
  7. I have a thermo top c Webasto with an open header tank. Been running for numerous years fault free. Had an issue with the burner so swapped it out for a new one which solved the issue. Some months later the radiators were hot at the top only.! Presumed sludge so tried Disconnecting the radiators and there was no sludge. The header rank inside is rusty and lots of bits floating about then the heater decided to run for a few mins then idle before the rads were hot and the re fire. I have this checked by Webasto dealer and was told the water is not flowing quickly enough and that the temperature is reached quickly as it’s slow moving causing the system to switch off idle and then restart shortly after. It’s inevitably not heating the rads sufficiently, I tried to remove the water pipes from the unit and force flush with a hose pipe this just filled the header and overflowed quickly. Allowing the water to flow out it was apparent there is a blockage in the pipe work but I have no complete drain down so my question is how quickly should the water flow through and would a hose pipe be too much pressure for the system and is it possible to swap from an open header to a sealed header tank to allow a bit more pressure and blast the pipes clean. If not is the only option to disconnect a rad from the front and blow it from that end?
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