smiffy

I always use left handed drills as it helps to loosen the offending stud and is sometimes all that is required .They are used on production machines and capstan lathes, and then use either the splined type extactor or a allen key mounted in a socket ,the advantage of any type of splined extractor is that the stud can be worked both ways .Often a sheared stud will tighten a small amount before it comes undone and can be worked loose by rocking backwards and forwards.The tapered type stud extractors are fairly useless and are only of very limited use

long term storage in an airing cupboard is fine but as soon as they cool they will absorb moisture ,any packet of quality rods will have storage and drying instructions on the packet or data sheet.Try tapping a rod against a piece of steel and it will sound 'dead' then heat it and try tapping it again ,the sound will be completely diffirent.Some welders will short the rod out before useing it to heat it and dry it. This only realy applies to low hydrogen rods.

I have used inverters for site work since they first became available and would not be without one .I now have one that will work on either 110 volts or 240 volts,its important to make sure they are generator compatable The one i am using has a output of 160 amps and will happily run a 4 mm rod .One thing that nobody has mentioned is the type of rods ,I rarely use 3016 but prefer 7016 which can be used with either a/c or d/c or 7018 which are d/c only Its also important to keep the rod hot to stop them absorbing moisture , on site i keep the rods in a piece of scaffold tube heated by a propane torch.

I When to Goldbergs in Uxbridge today and they stock marine ply B S 1088-1-2003 mel exterio class 3 BS EN314 Gaboon throughout with Lloyds type approval for £46.67 per sheet plus v a t and the quality looks very good so I will use this rather than something cheaper but of lesser quality .Mike

Thanks for all your advice I will make some inquires regarding price and quality of all the recommendations .

The roof of my boat is constructed of 3/4 t&g boards covered with 6 mm marine ply, after nearly 25 years the ply now needs replacing. What would be the best ply to use Gaboon, Okoume or Teak. Also between the t&g and ply there is rubber /bitumen type membrane any idears on a suitable replacement Thanks Mike

Hi we are thinking of installing a SIGMAR 250 diesel cooker on our narrow boat as we would like to be gas free. Has anyone any experience of them Thanks Mike and Tess

Thanks all, appreciate your replies

Allan thank you very much for your reply, we will go back to the drawing board with our route plan.Just one other thing- we were worried about stopping overnight in Birmingham re:vandalism/trouble, is this a problem?

Thank you both for your help. Why would you choose the BCN/gas street route, is it just quicker?

Hi we are new to the forum, wonder if anyone has any suggestions, we need to move our tug from Whitchurch on the llangollan to Crick and our journey time is limited, we have looked on the canal route planner but wonder which is the best route and would be grateful for any advice, thanks