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Posts posted by jacob

  1. 26 minutes ago, bizzard said:

    If any of them are let into the ceiling panels quite often roof condensation can short them out, more so during the winter.


    13 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

    There is an intermittent high resistance connection upstream (ie battery side) of the terminal block, probably caused by corrosion. Slight vibrations, changes in humidity etc can make the difference between a good connection and a bad high resistance connection. When the issue is manifest (voltage at the terminal block 3v), trace the wiring back towards the battery and find out where 3v suddenly becomes 12v - that is where the problem is. Most likely corrosion on a fuse holder or any other place where there are connections.


    Cheers both, I'll try tracing it back and see where that gets me

  2. 2 minutes ago, pearley said:

    Try connecting each lamp one at a time to see if it's one of them causing the problem.



    Hmm, I've given that a go but the problem is still there no matter which of the three are connected (and even when they are all disconnected)


    The only other thing I could think of is something else being connected, but the only other things that are remotely near are the horn and the water pump, both of which are on seperate circuits.

  3. Afternoon all,


    I'm trying to fix a recurring problem we're having with the electrics. Every now and then, a string of lights (all on the same 12V spur) will stop working. This happens pretty randomly - today I dropped something heavy on the floor and they switched off, but other times it's happened with no apparent cause.


    I've done some digging in the cables, this is what I've found. The problem is with a spur of 3 lights - a 12V strip light and two 12V touch led lights. When this spur is disconnected, the voltage across the terminal block is 13.5V. Once I connect the spur, the voltage drops to just under 3V. At this low voltage, the lights just don't turn on. When the lights are working and on, it measures about 12-13V across the terminal block.


    I'm struggling to work out what the problem is, and why it's so intermittent. I'm fairly sure that it's only those 3 lights connected, but I can't easily access the wires as they're buried into the ceiling.


    Any ideas what the issue could be, and any possible fixes?




  4. Evening all,


    I recently repainted our well deck, which was pretty much caked in rust. The water tank hatch was also rusted down, so I drilled out the bolts and prised it out. The paint job was a success, but now about 5 days after the event our water smells of white spirits and has a bit of a chemically tang to it - I used white spirits to wipe down the metal before painting it, and reckon that a small amount got into the tank through now unsealed hatch.


    Does anyone have any ideas for how best to go about flushing the system clean? My current thinking is to just leave the taps running and a hose in tank to cycle everything, but if anyone's got any experience with this fairly niche incident that'd be helpful




  5. Heya,


    The belt for our leisure battery alternator is knackered so we need a replacement, and I'm struggling to identify the belt so I can get a new one online


    It's a beta 43 engine, and the belt is 10mm wide. There's a few codes and numbers on it that are a bit worn, but from what I can make out they're 3108, 13AY1087, 661 1130 54940 161 and FA1 AUTOMOTIVE <something> - pic below


    I've found this one at midland chandlers, but it doesn't match any of the codes on the belt so I'm not sure it's the one...


    Any ideas?








  6. 13 minutes ago, David Mack said:

    If your pump is rated at 11 lpm and you are getting 4 lpm at the showerhead I would suggest your problem is one of pipework which is too narrow/long/too many tight bends, or a shower valve/head which is not capable of carrying the flow you want. Doubling up on the pump without changing anything else will just mean two pumps running for half the time each, the maximum pressure at the pump being determined by the cut out pressure.

    Hmm, ok - there's 4 fairly redundant 90deg bends right next to the pump, so I'll have a play with that and see if things improve, cheers


  7. 3 minutes ago, PaulD said:

    Whale Gulper 220 = 14 l/min

    Parmax 2.9 = 11 l/min. Two = 22 l/min


    Did you measure the actual flow at the shower head ? Or have I got the wrong Whale Gulper?


    Not sure how the Whale Gulper will have 3 x the needed capacity.

    You've got both right, but the flow from the showerhead is 4lpm.


    If the flow does get too much for the gulper, I'll find a stronger replacement, but for now I won't solve a problem we don't have


    10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:



    I suppose if he ever decides to use it as a boat they could always 'go dirty' for a couple of weeks.


    There just seems to be an ever widening gap between boaters and those living on a boat because they cannot afford anywhere else.

    I've wanted to live on a boat for the last 5 years, and while I'm used to a less luxurious lifestyle, I'm not the only one onboard :) Could afford to rent a teeny tiny flat in London, but where's the fun in that?

  8. Heya all


    Cheers for all the info - we've got a calorifier, I'm happy with a cold shower and me and my partner shower at different times of the day so it'll give the immersion heater time to recover. As for running out of cold water, we've got a hose very close indeed so that's not a major issue


    17 hours ago, Detling said:

    Increasing the flow rate to your shower will also decrease the time you can spend in it, before you run out of hot water. If you don't also increase the shower drain pump capacity, you may get overflow from the shower tray into the boat. Everything in life has to be balanced and comprimise is something you have to live with.

    I've checked the gulper and it'll be able to cope with about 3 times the current flow


    16 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

    Well with my shower the pump cuts in and out while having a shower, so for me fitting a higher flow pump would not increase the amount of water coming from the shower. This is why I asked the OP if his pump runs continually while the shower is on. The pump as others have said may not be the limiting factor

    The current pump kicks in shortly after the shower starts and runs continuously until the shower stops.


    I've ordered a 2nd Jabsco, couldn't find the pressure switch right away - if there's problems once both pumps are installed I'll get one :)


  9. 1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:


    I presuming this has some modern language connotation - maybe you can explain. (remember that 90% of the forum members are over 65 years of age)

    Do you simply mean to increase the flow rate ?


    Apologies - I'll flick the 'youth speak' switch off :)  Amp up = needs more oomph - we young people have been mollycoddled to expect, nay, demand, a powerful 30min shower twice a day


    So it looks likes the best solution is to add an extra Jabsco to the mix  (and it's also about £200 cheaper) - should I install it in series or parallel? My gut tells me that having one pump feeding into the next would be a bad move, but it's been wrong before...





  10. 3 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

    Higher pressure does not increase flow rate. Your 2.9 delivers 11 litres per minute. There are lots of options that deliver up to 20 litres per min. or more. Just be aware, if using one, your water tank will empty a lot quicker. It is too easy to let more water in than you intend.


    We're at a marina with a tap 2m away so can have the luxury of long showers ;)


  11. Cheers for the replies


    20 minutes ago, David Mack said:

    Why not put two parmaxes plumbed and wired in parallel? That should double the flow rate without the need for switching, and gives you a fail safe if one pump fails. As the cut in and cut out pressures on the two pumps will not be exactly the same, one will probably do the lions share, with the other only cutting in when the flow is highest.

    Good shout, hadn't thought of that - I assume they've both feed into the accumulator?


    6 minutes ago, springy said:

    I'm not convinced that mixing a diaphragm pressure pump and a centrifugal pump is going to work without at least some isolation, though that could simply be an "L" port valve joining the two  outlets, (the handle of which could operate a switch controlling which pump ran), but don't forget to consider the size  of the inlet - that pump has a 22mm inlet, if the pipe from your tank is 15mm it will restrict the flow, less of a problem if the pump is close to the tank but could be significant if the pump is some distance from the tank, any filters or valves in the line may also restrict flow.

    Both pumps will be right next to the tank, so the change shouldn't be an issue. Will look into L valves

    7 minutes ago, blackrose said:

    Or why not just get a higher pressure Parmax pump and avoid the complexity of two pumps?

    I've had a look at the parmax range, and the highest 12v flow rate @ 25psi (from what I can see) is 11lpm, which is our current one. I don't want to increase the pressure because I'm not sure what the rest of the system is rated for, so I'll play it safe and keep any alterations under 25psi to avoid a leak

  12. Heya,


    I'm looking to amp up the water flow rate in the boat by adding in a mains pump to the system - we're on shoreline pretty much all the time, so power isn't an issue.


    Currently there's a parmax2.9 Jabsco installed with an accumulator, and we'd keep that as-is so that we can switch back when we're on the batteries. It's 25PSI (1.7 bar), so this looks like it would suit without blowing the pipes apart, and it has about twice the flow rate of the Jabsco


    Here's the old layout and a rough plan of what I think might work for the new one:




    Before I go and order the pump, is there anything in this setup that looks off? The pump not in use will be turned off so they won't fight against eachother, but do they need their own individual stopcock to prevent the other pump putting negative pressure on the seals etc.?



  13. 10 hours ago, Nemysys said:

    Currently going through a complete refit.


    with regard to itchy fibreglass, we used 


    more expensive but no itch!


    we have also gone for a baton / t&g approach, big learning curve, but the first room (which we have learnt and improved on for the next room) has lasted well.


    here is a before and after photo, the whole thing is still work in progress. 



    looking very swish :)

  14. 13 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:


    On the face of it yes as long as you don't try to feed an inverter through it.


    More thoughts on the Alde wiring (over dinner). I think I was wrong. The feed goes into the top of the Alde and a positive comes straight back and the other comes from the switch back to the igniter etc. All connections via the four way lug on top of the unit. So if the pump won't run with the slide  switch on and the thermostat set to maximum  and the igniter lamp won't flash that means either the unit is not getting and electricity or the slide switch is suspect.

    Cheers - while I'm waiting for the new fuses I'll jump the slide switch connection in the thermostat to see if anything happens

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