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akmext

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Gongoozler

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  1. Glad to hear it's all still in good nick after 7yrs. Mine will also be facing towards the bow so that's a good point you make. I'm renovating afloat but ballast/trim of the boat continually changing as thing are ripped out and replaced - think a deep shower tray is perhaps also useful for this reason.
  2. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with Wesley Windows shower doors? I've seen good things about the windows they supply but not many reviews of the shower doors. If anyone knows of any alternative suppliers of reduced height shower doors that would be great too! Thanks!
  3. I’m thinking you’re right - the vactan does need to be left longer... there doesn’t seem to be any instructions readily available about overcoating time though ? And floor paint due to cost - bilge paint isn’t cheap! As an overcoat to a vactan’d surface I thought the heavy duty floor paint would be a good option and have seen some other good reviews from use in bilges. It’s oil and chemical resistant and suitable for use on metal.
  4. Thanks Dave In an ideal world that or owatrol is what I’d be using but it’s pricey stuff. I know in most cases you get what you pay for but with such a large area to eventually cover I opted to spend on the vactan and save using the floor paint which is less than half the price. Seems to have done the trick in most places so far ?
  5. Without dedicating your whole life to it I think not ? Im a bit pedantic about most things I do on the boat but, unless you’re starting from brand new or totally gutting an old boat and spending a fortune and/or a lot of hours on it, I think it’s damage limitation!
  6. Realistically I’m probably not going to grind it all back again - it’s taken a lot of work to get to this stage given the state it was in prior to any work - and I’m talking sodden with slabs of rust 5mm thick (don’t worry I’m overplated!) As it’s localised I was hoping to get away with wire brushing affected areas then spot treating with vactan (when conditions are ok) then more of the heavy duty paint over that.
  7. Yes there has been angle grinding nearby since painting so it may well be that - guessing I would just wire brush back and treat again? Also the rusting specs are localised and not over the whole treated area. Was done end of Aug so warm enough - I’m all too aware of vactan being ineffective below 10 degrees! Didn’t realise 24-48hrs required prior to overcoating though - instructions don’t state anything about overcoating time but it would make sense to leave it to cure longer as you’ve said.
  8. Hello! Just after some opinions or advice on why I might be seeing rust spots come trough my bilges treated as follows: 1. Significant chunks of rust removed 2. Wire brushed and scraped down clean as much as possible 3. Wiped down with white spirit, left to dry 4. One coat of vactan, left to cure for a few hours at least 5. One or two coats of leyland heavy duty floor paint All done a matter of months ago and now tiny speckles of rust have appeared through the paint. Any ideas why and what my next steps could be? Thanks in advance for any help!!
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