pollip

Just pop a relay in that cuts in at a certain voltage and out at a certainly voltage ?. Kind of like a split charge relay ?. Is it worth doing considering the cost of a 12/230v element and those aren’t suitable anyway so I’ll have to look further afield

That was my issue with using the ac2 on the multiplus, everyone that was saying it was using lithium, they were saying something along the lines of setting the assistant to 80% of battery capacity to prevent it cutting in and out all the time but like you say that doesn’t really work without lithium. If I put a 1000w draw on my batts they would kick up a right fuss. Maybe I leave this one until I have lifepo4 🤔. I’m assuming it would be similar issues doing and auto system using 12v ?

That’s not bad actually, I’m curious at what point during the day say the waters piping hot how would the system no to stop heating it 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️. I’ve just been looking at 12v elements but have had a thought that at least with 230v I have the option to remotely turn it off, 12v I’m stuffed and it will have to wait until I’m home

That does sound pretty simple tbf but does require being around to press switches which I’m trying to avoid.. don’t get me wrong if that’s the way I’ve got to do it pressing switches then that’s the way but It won’t fully help because I’m not always going to be there to flick switches and there will be times I’ll have to come back and wait hours for hot water to heat when it could of been heating all day because I’m not there so not using power but I’m not there so I cor flick the switches That’s about the way I want it to go tbh, if there’s no sun there’s no sun you just heat it up yourself but having the opportunity and not taking it is just wasteful when it could be rather beneficial.. I have heard still though you are better to run it through a separate relay rather than keep flicking the inverter relay on and off like you say sometimes every hours.. the only thing I can think about there is one’s a lot more to replace than the other

That is one of the things that put me off in the first place, it probably takes 2 hours to heat my tank with a 1kw and I wouldn’t say that was red hot. 300w would take an age. Now my theory is though that in the summer water doesn’t need to be as hot as it’s hot out and the waters warmer to begin with so takes less heating. Even slightly warm water is a bonus. That’s pretty much what was said on the victron Forum, I think part of my problem is I want it to do it’s thing when I’m not there and don’t want to leave the inverter on if I’m not incase something happens fire loose sun and run the batts down yada yada. That is a really simple easy solution to my problem but I’ll be less bothered about leaving it on if I wasn’t leaving the dogs in there aswell. That’s the reason I want an auto system so I can get home and have a shower when needed rather than thinking I’ll just sit and wait a few hours for the water to heat up

I don’t really know how to work this forum so you’ll have t bare with me… I asked on the victron pages before and that what a lot of people said, all using lifepo4 though which the load really wouldn’t bother. I think my solution is a 12v Immersion tbh but I really don’t want to have to change the element out but then I also don’t want to have to run the inverter to get the solar dump lol. All the 230v/12v dual elements I’ve found are suited to horizontal tanks and mines vertical 🤷🏻‍♂️

I’ve got 1170w solar 2 panels running through an epever and 2 through a victron 100/50 smartsolar.. epever will eventually be replaced for another 100/50. I’m wanting to dump the excess solar to a 1kw 230v immersion heater. I’m running a multiplus 3000/12/120 16 amp, victron smart shunt, cerbo gx and touch 50. I’ve seen the usual way to do it on 12v boating group but I’m wanting a fit and forget auto solar dump where I don’t have to touch anything at all it just does it’s thing. I’ve heard of running it off l2 on the multiplus but that apparently can run off batts and I don’t want that (5 x 105ah lead carbon agms). Does anybody have any pointers ??

Which is the correct dosing pump for the webasto thermo top c, I bought a brand new unit from mellor not long ago and they say its the dp30 I need, when you speak to evesham marina they gave me a product code of 1322440a. They are 2 different pumps at different completely different price ranges. Which one is the correct one for the thermo top c ?. Ta

I had looked at that but didn't even know what a blower was until this evening, I assumed at first it meant like a fan that circulates the air. Which is why I'm trying to see if I can find people that have done it and see if it works. But also look at the newer models that can give out say 1.3kw rather than 5kw which I'd assume means it needs less rads, only assuming mind you. I found this earlier and was intruiged

I'm really struggling to find info about it all tbh and some people get relatively sour when heat exchangers and webastos are mentioned in the same sentence. My friend just used a £30 heat exchanger with some hose tails bought from a place that specialises in hose. This is the unit I'd be looking at and after speaking to Stuart their technician he says that he has sold many of them and never had anyone call back about them or complain and when I mentioned pressures etc said the flow and return side.was specifically designed to be ran from a ebby or Webby by that I assume it means just the pressure. And the hot and cold side just have to be careful on the cold flow going in as if the cold goes in to fast it of course isn't in there long enough to get hot or hot enough. The slower the cold in the hotter it will get its just finding the middle ground of hot enough with enough pressure out the other end. The link will be below, I've had many dealings with this company and they know their stuff and are real helpful https://www.melloronline.co.uk/Water_Heater_Matrices/10715/Webasto_Motor_Home_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_with_Mixer_Valve_and_hose_connections_inc.html

This heat exchanger has specially been designed to work with an ebby or Webby, OK webby or ebby might not support it but its a little bit like saying your car didn't come with parking sensors therefore you shouldn't fit aftermarket ones because the manufacturer didn't support it on that model.. yes it will work fine and dandy. It may not be supported mind you. I used to have a Peugeot 106 when I was a kid I put some 16 inch alloys on it, the alloys rubber against the rear wheel arches because it wasn't designed for such big wheels. I knocked the wheel arches out and it worked perfect looked good and was safe https://www.melloronline.co.uk/Water_Heater_Matrices/10715/Webasto_Motor_Home_Plate_Heat_Exchanger_with_Mixer_Valve_and_hose_connections_inc.html

I had it running to test the system once and since the water pump has gone I've sent it off to repair its a car unit that can't be read on a diagnostic machine the fuels also not going through very well and its looking like it needs replacing. The calorifior has a big on split in it meaning I need a new one of them aswell... I don't have the best part of 2k just for parts not including labour.. especially not when I'm mid refit. Of course I'm going to look for cheaper options that heat water faster who wouldn't. I asked about an lpg water heater and that post was plagued about no this that and the other go diesel go diesel, bss liability issues etc etc. Neither method seem the right way to go 🤷‍♂️. I'm genuinely asking to learn and am intruiged as to why or why not something so or shouldn't be done and why it would or wouldn't work. Everyone seems to palm the heat exchangers off without even having tried it.. why ?, I'm curious as to why the boating world hasn't given it a go and perfected the system or w.e. I'm not trying to sound or be a dick genuinely trying to get some info and learn

I'm guessing for the same reason people say you can't run a heat exchanger off a webby. The heat sync has to be something like 10% over the capacity of the webby so the webby doesn't shut down because of something or another. I had loads of people tell me I didn't have enough rads to use my 5kw webby on bare in mind I did have a 44litre calorifier aswell

Nicely done, but surely this goes against the argument of not enough of a heat sync for the ebby or webby to work. Obviously it would be more of a heat sync than a heat exchanger but probably not more than a heat exchanger and 2 rads

Difficult to achieve but not impossible which is why the newer ones seem better suited because I believe the ebby goes down to 1.3 kW and the evo 1.8kw, a far cry away from the original 5 kW. Now all I keep thinking to myself is everybody thay runs their hot water through a diesel heater and calorifior, how in the hell do they deal with red hot radiators I'm the summer.. why was that ever even a thing. It seems the current two mainly used options are shite. lpg water heaters difficult to get fitted buy a reputable person because of liability issues and being an open flued system, next you've got to sit about for an hour or 2 for a tank of hot water big enough for 2 showers and some washing up while wasting diesel for several hours and being scorched by hot rads on a summery day. Things seem to be behind the times and the heat exchangers off a ebby or webby seem to be bringing the times forward slightly. There's loads of people in vans doing it just the boat world hasn't clocked on yet because there's to many people saying you couldn't or shouldn't

My thoughts on the ebby were they go lower than the evo which in theory would mean kick up less of a fuss with the little amount of rads

You lost me with the half heat off stuff all I understood was webasto evo lol, I've never actually used the thermo top c so couldnt actually tell or say how it works

I'm looking to replace my thermo top c with an evo 5 or a hs3, i can't find many reviews on either and not many people seem to of fitted them at all. I intend to use a heat exchanger rather than a calorifier and only have 2 small rads, 1 on thermostatic rad valves 1 towel rad which isn't as it's used as the heat sync. It would be loverly to be able to turn the rads off in summer and just get all but instant hot water from the heat exchanger without unwanted rad heat. The only reason I fitted rads is because I had to. How well would these new ones cope with being run for 15m and switched off again ?, It seems a waste of time effort and diesel to run it any longer to stop it from coking up but also I obviously don't want it coking up. Any info ??, I've searched on here and on Google and YouTube but can't seem to find much at all. Ta

Yes I assume so. I'm sure he said yesterday 5-7lpg per minute via the cold feed, I need to have a chat with my friend to see what pump he has on his as he hasn't ever said any of this just hooked it straight up didn't change anything on the pump and it comes out piping hot. I guess it also depends on if you have an accumulator on the hot feed which I'm sure I do because that will bump the pressure up as it comes out hot There will be a way to get the pressure up for the hot feed, I can't stand showers that drip so if I do have a problem I'll find a way. The parts are on melloronline if you fancy a browse into them, Stuart is the technician and a very helpful chap. I just got off the phone to him and he said the flow and return will be about 80-82 degrees c that's heating the hot water so the hot water should be heater to somewhere just under that mark of course depending on the flow going in

It has been done. A mate of mine has a ebby in his van with under floor heating a plinth heater and a heat exchanger. He said the water get to hot to use (he hasn't put a mixer in it yet). It's all down to flow rate of the pump, you push cols water in to fast it won't get hot you push cold water in to slow it will get piping hot. It works on the same principle as a lpg water heater the only difference being you have to wait for the webby or ebby to go through the wake up cycle and get to temp before it will start heating properly. The friend in question says 15-20m and he has an instant hot water supply. The chap at Mellor says it should take about 5 minutes for the webasto to get up to temp to start heating. We shall see I suppose

They aren't instant water heaters no but you pop a heat exchanger in place of the tank and they act as a combi boiler, done a fair amount in vans but not in boats. The only thing you've got to watch is the Cold water flow rate, if the cold water goes through to fast it won't heat it sufficiently. The particular one I'm looking at has been designed to run using a webby or ebby

I did you are right 🤣. Although I did mean another all but instant method. I've decided to send the webasto off for repair rip out the leaky tank and replace it with a heat exchanger so as soon as the webasto has reached temp I can get instant hot water from it rather than waiting an hour or 2 for water to heater up

That won't be as bad as my in a Bush atm fed straight from a cold hosepipe stood in my swimming shorts 😱. If I was to fix the webasto I'd put it on a heat exchanger if that's the right word to get all bit instant hot water and skip out the hot water cylinder. It's not been done that much but I do know of someone with it fitted and it works perfect

Well that's the theory of it, in practical terms though I don't do prior planning. I do have this feeling I would end up waiting round everyday to wait for water to heat up so i can shower. We don't actually have a shower fitted atm but it's nearly done but I tend to shower first thing in the morning to wake myself up. Qwe are live aboards with currently a 44litre leaky tank and a broken webasto and an air cooled engine so not hot water from the engine. I'm in the process of pricing up a new tank and fixing the webasto against an lpg heater fitted by a certified person. I originally wanted to fit a lpg heater but regretably opted for a webasto, I care not for the heat I'll get from the radiators so the only pro from having one isn't actually a pro for me. All it is to me is one gives me as much instant hot water as I want the other I'll get probably 55 litres of hot water in approx 1.5 hours 🤷‍♂️. It seems like a no brainer really and I can see both costing probably about the same by the time I've bought a new hot water tank I am currently boiling a kettle for the dishes tbh and the amount of hot water we would actually use is rather negligible against the price of a bottle although I do appreciate a webasto would be cheaper to run. I do have a thermo top c fitted but it's broken and so is my cylinder-_-, which is why I'm looking for a new system

I've got a air cooler engine so that's a no go, and also that's pretty far from instant hot water 🤣