Jump to content

XLD

Member
  • Posts

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by XLD

  1. On 22/07/2024 at 23:04, matty40s said:

    Black them, they will last even longer

    Ha ha. I actually saw someone paint anodes with red oxide once 🙄

    On 22/07/2024 at 16:13, Tony Brooks said:

     

    I don't think that is correct, assuming a low enough resistance in the cable. The electric cell is between the anode and the closest bit of steel, not the mounting bolt. The bolt and cable are only electrical conductors to complete the circuit. With the slope of the hull side on most boats, I suspect that the anode may well hang clear, so reducing the effectiveness of the cell and fail to protect as larger are as one fixed to the hull. It won't do any harm and might do a bit of good.

    Good point. Fortunately my barge has a fair amout of vertical hull just below thw waterline so thats where l ‘ll hang them

  2. I've just had new anodes welded onto the hull during dry docking. The old ones still have a fair bit left so l thought l might as well hang them down the side of the boat as bin them.

  3. Right. I have a 2 bar pump on my hot water system and  a 2 bar pump on my coldwater system. (so if one packs in l dont lose the whole water supply).
    What happens if l replace  one with a 3 bar pump. Thinking of the mixer shower. 
    Serious answers only please

  4. 8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    Bar is only the cut-out pressure, there should also be litres or gallons per minute in the specifications. That is what you want to look at for a comparison of delivery volume. So the same litres per minute give the same delivery volume. The difference is the 3 bar pump might require a new PRV on the calorifier or its cut out pressure adjusting downwards to 2 bar. Unless adjusted down, it could cause a plumbing leak. Running a tap into the bathroom hand basin is more likely to get you an embarrassing wet patch on your trousers (depending upon bowl design).

    So the pressure in the pipework is higher and more suseptable to leakage?

  5. 9 minutes ago, MtB said:

     

    No, the accumulator pressure will only affect the length of time between pump blipping on briefly. You have 12 seconds now, and that will go up to maybe a minute or three once you get the pressure set right, depending on the capacity of the accumulator.

     

    But the pump will still keep running from time to time as it needs to replace the water leaking out of the system. 

     

    My money is on the calorifier PRV letting by and going out of the boat via a skin fitting.

     

     

     

     

    No the new pump solved the problem👍

  6. On 06/07/2024 at 13:43, David Mack said:

    Or water is leaking back through the pump.

    Turn off the main valve on the tank outlet. If the pump no longer keeps firing up that would confirm it is water leaking back through the pump. The cause is most likely some dirt in the pump valves.

    Thanks.Tried that, but pump still cycling. So hopefully, accumulator just needs repressurisng

     

    On 06/07/2024 at 13:34, Onewheeler said:

    Accumulator needs repressurising (or replacing if the bladder has sprung a leak).

    Well l've repressurised the accumulator tank up to 2 bar. (It was low). That's the same cut out pressure as on the Whale Watermaster FW1214(B) model. Ran the pump with water tank valve both on and off. Still cycling intermitantly when on and running constantly when off. 

    Pump sounds dog rough. 

    Time for a new pump???

    New pump (always carry a spare) , same problem. Next check PRV🤞

    New pump (always carry a spare) , same problem. Next check PRV🤞

  7. 23 hours ago, David Mack said:

    Or water is leaking back through the pump.

    Turn off the main valve on the tank outlet. If the pump no longer keeps firing up that would confirm it is water leaking back through the pump. The cause is most likely some dirt in the pump valves.

    Thanks.Tried that, but pump still cycling. So hopefully, accumulator just needs repressurisng

     

    23 hours ago, Onewheeler said:

    Accumulator needs repressurising (or replacing if the bladder has sprung a leak).

    Well l've repressurised the accumulator tank up to 2 bar. (It was low). That's the same cut out pressure as on the Whale Watermaster FW1214(B) model. Ran the pump with water tank valve both on and off. Still cycling intermitantly when on and running constantly when off. 

    Pump sounds dog rough. 

    Time for a new pump???

  8. Hi my water pump has started firing up for 1 second every 12 seconds. The pressure vessel is 3 years old. The pump fires up now as soon as l turn the tap on. I cant find any leaks in the pipework. Is there any other possible cause or must there be a leak somewhere?

     

  9. 5 minutes ago, M_JG said:

     

    We get this sometimes with Mrs M_JG's iphone. Quite often our Amazon Fire stick will not see the mobile hot spot it generates.

     

    We normally sort it by shutting the iPhone down and starting it up again. Along with which ever device we are trying to connect.

     

    No idea why it does it or why doing this seems to sort it.

    Hmm. I'm going to switch eberything off and start from scratch. There is a Firestick too but I've not involved it yet🙄

    4 minutes ago, IanD said:

    Does it connect with the VPN off?

     

    When you say "doesn't connect" do you mean no RF connection at all, or no Internet?

    I'll turn the VPN off. What is RF???

     

    8 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

    Is the iPad capable of connecting to  2.5GHz & 5GHz networks?

     

    Possible if older it will only cope with 2.5GHz and if the WiFi is 5GHz then it won't have it

    The IPad is the latest model.

     

    • Greenie 1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.