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MJT

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Knowle
  • Occupation
    Retired
  1. Thanks for looking. I fitted the starter, giving close attention to the pinion-flywheel gap, fully charged the battery, and it works. Thanks everyone for your help. I had to get it working for our 50th anniversary (me + car) on Tuesday. We had a little celebration with my chum who was celebrating 60 years with his. Champagne and sandwiches in the garage ?
  2. Thanks Sir N, how does a fibre brake washer differ from an ordinary one? No spring under the plug, so I'll have a closer look. How much oil should one put in?
  3. Thanks TD. I have now applied power. With cardboard the armature rotates sedately and does stay out. Without cardboard full power is released. As you said Mike it happens so quickly it is impossible to tell exactly where on the stroke the full power cuts in. The contact tumbler is of course spring mounted, which adds to the uncertainty. I think I'll put it back on the car, check the pinion to flywheel gap, and see how it goes. PS rightly or wrongly I used a HD battery charger for the test. Beginning on lowest setting, there was not enough juice to work. I increased to 2 where it was barely pulling in, then 3, and it fully pulls in on 3. Therefore it does seem to me that a duff battery could cause problems. I shall get it tested.
  4. The pinion housing has a screw plug for inserting lubricant - what should I put in it? 3 in 1 ?
  5. Thanks Mike. I now have the motor back together. I noticed before, and again now that there is a thickish 'washer' between the trip disc and the end casing. This is a piece of bent wire, so obviously not OE. The effect is to hold the armature disc slightly nearer to the trip lever. Only about 1/16". As I have said, the motor has worked fine for 49+ years, but I wonder if I should try replacing this with a normal washer. I have not tried operating it yet, but I can see that it will be difficult to get a true idea of the 'full-power' moment. Ok thanks. I'll try with the cardboard first.
  6. Thanks. My ring gear has a lead-in on the teeth, unlike the one shown above. Hopefully the two will mesh nicely.
  7. I have had the teeth brazed and filed them up as best as I can, then put a 20 degree lead-in on the ends. Next to re-assemble, put the motor in the vice, and see if the trip is operating too early.
  8. Yes the standard for my car was a Smiths, with Bendix. Axial much better.
  9. Sorry to be thick, what do you mean by CL?
  10. Interesting to see that your flywheel teeth have a square front. Mine have a definite lead-in. My bronze pinion is considerably worse than yours, but I have left it with J.B.Place & Son in Tyseley this morning, and hope to get it back tomorrow or Wednesday suitably made good. Then I have some filing to do.
  11. Thanks Sir Nibble, yes mine is still there, and the trip lever in good condition. In fact I spent some considerable time, within the last couple of years, re-furbishing the contacts on the solenoid, which had become badly pitted. Still v.g. condition.
  12. Hi Mike, thanks for your reply. I shall be interested to hear any news, and shall let you know what I find out. I think I am on messenger too - Martin Trentham
  13. I appear to have exactly the same problem as Mike, although my starter is on a vintage car. Both the pinion and I are now somewhat distressed, although only the pinion has had about 1/8" machined off its teeth, apparently by 'premature rotation'. I have had the car for 50 years, and it has worked fine for 49¾. The pinion is bronze and 11-tooth, which is correct for the application. Before I start investigating the motor, first I shall be going into Brum early next week to see if it is possible to get the teeth brazed up. I can buy a new pinion from one of the spares suppliers, but it is over £200. I am wondering if it could be simply a defective battery, although when it does engage it seems to turn over normally, so probably not, and it is only 2 years old. Martin
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