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Flow

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Everything posted by Flow

  1. Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm just happy it's working now, I'll swap the pipes around before I use it again then it's done. I would no doubt have worked it out in the end but you've saved me a heap of time ?
  2. Yeah it's a tad annoying because I've connected it from the left (pump) to the bottom of the calorifier coil and back from the top to the right (thermostat). It works ok but would it be much more efficient if I swapped them? Baring in mind it wouldn't be a straightforward job as the pipes are different lengths.
  3. Just an update, I've connected it all up and it's working fine although the the pipe from the right (thermostat) seems to get hot first?.
  4. You read my mind! I was about to ask this very question. So it's left hand side to the bottom of the calorifier then return to the right?
  5. Excellent! Thanks for all your help guys ??
  6. Ok I think I've got it. On my engine I can see a link pipe (see photo). So all I need to do is remove this and run pipes to the calorifier.
  7. Right, I've been through my photo album and found one photo! It's probably not much help but it's all I have until I get to the boat this evening. Behind the top alternator is what I took to be the heat exchanger. It definitely has a skin tank and isn't connected to any raw water intake.
  8. Yes it is blue and there is a blanking plate on the front! I'll take some photos later when I get home. Thanks ?
  9. Ahh I see. Thanks for the advice, I'll have a look at that later. Should I be looking at Kubota engine diagrams in future then? There doesn't seem to be a lot of information out there for Nanny's.
  10. I bought my second narrowboat last year and discovered that the engine heat exchanger isn't connected to the calorifier. The engine is a Nanni 4 diesel. I've looked and can't see any outlets to connect to aside from the two connected to the skin tank. My question is is there something missing from my engine or do I just "T" off from the skin tank pipes?
  11. That's very good point. This particular one has 4 small brackets on the base screwed to the floor so hopefully that'll hold it but then there is always the risk of the whole thing or even just the top buckling as Pod pointed out in not so many words ?. I've taken canals are us' advice and dryed all around the nut and sprayed it with wd40 so hopefully it won't. Thanks again for all the great advice all of you. It really had me stumped. I consider myself a competent diy'er but have never even seen an immersion, having always lived in houses that had a boiler.
  12. ? I can imagine! This is upright with good access thank goodness. I'm glad you mentioned the wattage because that was going to be my next question, thanks. I think I'll go for the 1 and a half.
  13. Thanks for that I'll give it a go at the weekend ?
  14. Thanks for the help everyone. After doing some homework I can see the mistake I've made, obvious really in hindsight. It looks like I'll be having to attack that massive nut after all ?.
  15. Ahh so the blue topped bayonet element thing is just the thermostat and not the actual elements, I've obviously got the two mixed up. So what you're saying is that I have to remove the whole thing and replace the lot?
  16. The calorifier is a fair age, it was in when I got the boat 4 years ago so I don't know the exact age. The thermostat element is a single bayonet type that just drops in through a hole in the tip so no need to unscrew the top nut. I have heard that the nut is an absolute b**** to undo so I'm trying to avoid that if possible. I can assure you it is, I bought and fitted it myself last week.
  17. Ahh that's what I thought ditchcrawler so I've replaced it, that's a brand new one in the photo. I first discovered this problem because the rcd kept tripping every time the immersion came on. When that didn't work I replaced the thermal cut off switch witch has cured the rcd trip but this water keeps returning.
  18. I have a leak from the top of the calorifier within the area where the immersion goes in. It's only does it occasionally and I originally thought it was caused by water boiling up through the immersion entry hole when it was on but I've since discovered it does it even when the tank is cold. I can't work it out so any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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