James H
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Posts posted by James H
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Thanks for all the advice, I've fixed it with a new pump now. But I think it was just the washer on the outlet side that was worn and causing a leak which was the problem all along. So I have kept the old pump for now and I may get round to testing that theory.
Cheers.
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Hi Everyone,
Would super appreciate a real basic breakdown here of where I am going wrong. So I am trying to wire a triple 12v socket (cigarette lighter style) from my switch board to charge 2 phones and our WiFi hub. The WiFi hub says 'input 12v - 2A' on the back. I have checked online and someone as successfully wired the same Huawei 3g hub onto 12v on their boat.
I intend to power the hub, and be able to charge two phones all at the same time. The hub is 2 amps max, (I assume from it saying 'input 12v - 2A') and the phones both take 2amps max as most usb phone car chargers are fitted with a 2 amp fuse etc. So that means put a 6 amp fuse in the switch board for that one?! Correct?!
Then if each of the 12v USB plugs for the phones have a 2amp fuse in each then that protects the phone should more power go through.
So I did that, wired up the socket as above (except I had a 10amp fuse in switch board) and when I plugged in the phone it popped and I smelt burning, the fuse/USB car plug fried with too much power going in. So my question is how do you wire up a triple USB socket that can have say 6 amps minimum being supplied to the triple socket to have up to 3 devices (in this case 2 phones and a WiFi hub) without the power overloading one device and frying the fuse in the plug when only one device is plugged in???
I have added a pic where I show the positive line up top, that goes into the blue cable which goes into the fuse, then out to the switch and then the positive line goes out from there to the device its powering (in this case a socket), and the main negative is circled up top where I can attach the negative coming back from the socket.
So what am I doing wrong???
Thanks in advance for any advice, its much appreciated...
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Thanks for all these questions ill work my way through them.
So I've looked at the 'new' pump and actually don't think it is new as it has dust collected around the top that looks as though its been fitted at somepoint for a decent period of time.
I'll try plugging outlet and see if the pump still runs to test the pressure sensor. But if its new this should work!
The rubber seal seems ok!
If its an old pump do you think it could be something to do with the pump as to why its leaking out of the side clip of pump outlet? Or can it only be the rubber seal?
Many thanks.
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It seems to be leaking quite abit from the side clip of the pump when I turn the pump at the switch but without the taps running. Maybe once I can fix this leak it won't continously run anymore! But can see how to fix it at the mo!
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With this new pump I've fitted when you turn the tap off the pump still runs at about half capacity (judging from the sound) as with the previous pump when you turned the tap off it sounded like it ran at fall capacity still!
Either and airlock somewhere or a leak I think but I'm not sure!
The flexi hose seems in good condition and the it doesn't seem to be dripping from the hose connecting to the pump but from directly under the side blue clip under the pump circled in picture. But once you have closed the clip I cant see what else can be done to make a tighter connection to prevent dripping!
Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Thanks for that, I found a replacement pump of same male and model left by the previous owners in a box. I forgot about it but they said its a new replacement pump.
Anyways I've fitted it, but the problem remains of the pump still running, it doesn't run as much but it must suggest a leak somewhere right?!
Also it constantly drips where I have plumbed it into the pump, and I'm not sure how to stop it, as the jubilee clip is as tight as it can go and I've clipped it in which is it was previously attached! Any ideas of what else to do to stop the dripping?! I've circled where its dripping from in the pic.
Really appreciate the help, thanks.
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Hi Jen,
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I don't have a calorifier, we just have a water heater instead. It could be a leak, but I think the leak would be pretty substantial if the pump is running all the time. Obviously we switch the water pump off on the fuse board, but it has been left on for a while by accident, and so if it was a leak surely it would be alot of water in the inspection hatch!
The pump is old I think so probably the pressure switch!
Is it easy enough to wire a square D pressure switch onto a Parmax 2.9, like would I need a different fuse etc or as I'm not very experienced with electronics maybe its best to just go for the same part again (pressure switch for the pump i have)!!!
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Hey Everyone,
I know this is probably a common fault and I have read through similar posts but I still need some help as I'm a complete newbie to this.
If anyone could break it down simply for me I'd super appreciate it.
So my water pump now runs continuously, so from what I've read it's a leak or pressure switch failure.
1. As I understand it you disconnect the outlet from the pump and turn on the tap, then if the pump stops when you turn off the tap that suggests its a leak! If the pump continues running its the pressure switch! Correct?! Makes sense but maybe there's more to it.
2. I am leaning towards it being the pressure switch as I don't have a serious amount of water in the hull (no more than usual) and no wet patches around connections like the washing machine, boiler, taps etc. Also a few people have said on this forum that its a common fault for the pressure switch to go as they only design them for leisure use and not the heavy use livaboards put them through. So it has been advised to get a more reliable 'square D' pressure switch and fit that.
3. Where is the pressure switch? This may sound like an obvious question but I'm not sure as I am fairly new to this so thought I'd ask. There's a round device separate to the water pump thats between the water pump and the shut off valve on the inlet? Could this be it? Or is the pressure switch usually built into the pump?
I have a Jabsco Par Max 2.9 water pump if anyone is familiar with these?!
Thanks for any advice, its all very much appreciated.
James.
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Hi Everyone,
I went to the local recycling centre and they require proof that you are a local resident. As a continuous cruiser I am not registered local and so I need a way of disposing safely of my used engine oil. Can anyone please advice me on this?
Also would handy if I could use local recycling centres for recycling in general, as the CRT don't provide many recycling bins.
Any advise is much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Jim.
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Hi Everyone,
I'd super appreciate any advice...
The front from my Morso squirrel stove has come away, it's pretty nippy at the mo and I need a new one fairly quick!
I am thinking this is a good opportunity to get a burner with an oven built in, I also need it to have connections for my back boiler. I'm a livaboard so need something that can take alot of use.
Any recommendations much appreciated, it's minus 2 outside!
Thanks ?
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2 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
You haven’t mentioned a battery charger, so I’m not sure you have one. The Sterling alternator to battery charger does what it says on the tin, goes between the alternator and the battery, it is nothing to do with converting mains power to charge the batteries. As you have described the system, there will be no battery charging when you plug in the generator. You need a battery charger!
Its says on the box:
'Sterling Advanced 4 step Split Charge Alternator to Battery Charger'.
So I assume it will charge the batteries then. Of thats the case I need to know what size generator to get to go with this specific battery charger right!!
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23 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
I've never tun an LPG Generator, having to lift a big Gas cylinder on and off each time is just asking for 'back-trouble' (once every few months is enough). Using smaller clinders is horrendously expensive and you have to find somewhere (safe) to store them.
I believe LPG adaptions has come along way in recent years, you used to have to start on petrol and switch over to LPG, and then switch over back to petrol to shut-down.
Certainly a petrol generator is more convenient but, BE AWARE of the fuel storage LAWS (not just the Boat safety rules) and ensure you keep both the generator and the fuel in a self draing locker (to the same specification as your gas locker) when not in use.
As mentioned previously the generator must only be used 'on shore'.
Petrol Storage On Boats
https://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/petrol-storage-club-association.htm
You can store up to 30 litres of petrol at home or at non-workplace premises without informing your local Petroleum Enforcement Authority (PEA).
You can store it in:
suitable portable metal or plastic containers
one demountable fuel tank
a combination of the above as long as no more than 30 litres is kept
For these purposes 'premises' are as defined in the Health and Safety Work Act, etc. 1974 and includes, for example, motor vehicles, boats and aircraft.
What containers can I use to store petrol?
The legislation allows you to store petrol in the following containers:
plastic containers storing up to 10 litres
metal containers storing up to 20 litres
demountable fuel tank up to 30 litres
Suitable portable containers are defined in Schedule 2 (para 6) and Schedule 3 of the regulations. UN approved containers are an example of such containers.
More detailed information on portable petrol storage containers (PDF) - Portable Document Format is available.
Does the petrol in the fuel tank of my car count towards the total I can store?
No – the petrol in the fuel tank of your vehicle, including boats and aircraft, does not count when you are calculating the total amount you are storing.
How much petrol can I store on a vehicle?
You can store up to 30 litres of petrol in a maximum of 2 suitable containers in your vehicle. For the purpose of these Regulations a ‘vehicle’ is interpreted as any type of vehicle so includes boats, aircraft and hovercraft. This type of storage counts towards the total you can store at non workplace premises. Carriage of petrol is covered by the Carriage of Dangerous Goods (CDG) and the European agreement (ADR).
Thanks very much for all that. I think I have a locker for that purpose on board, I'll check first and get the correct approved containers. And yes agree LPG is not cheap nor practical, unless you ran your genne on the back deck, but thats not a good idea nor safe so wont be doing that.
Cheers.
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Sorry I am a complete novice trying to get my head around all this!
Yes the charger and inverter are two seperate boxes. Does that mean the charger wont charge the batteries when plugged into the generator?!
I.e I'll need a seperate battery charger!
Thanks.
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1 hour ago, nicknorman said:
It depends on what you have inside the boat connected to its mains circuits. If you have a battery charger or Combi inverter, then yes plugging in the generator will charge the batteries. If it is a Combi, normally you can set a current limit such that charging only takes place when the overall demand is less than the current limit - in other words, other stuff you might be using on the boat takes priority over the Combi battery charging.
I have a:
'Sterling Advanced 4 step Split Charge Alternator to Battery Charger'.
And a:
'Pro Power S sine wave inverter' (240v).
So if I plug the lead straight from the inverter to my shore line socket, switch over the switch to the shoreline socket, then hopefully that'll go through my alternator/battery charger and into the batteries, as well as through the inverter into my 240v sockets!
Right?!
Cheers.
I haven't got the generator yet, am still just trying to figure out my exact set up first!
Appreciate the help. ?
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1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Stand generator on the bank, down wind of your boat.
Plug your shoreline into your boat plug
Plug your shoreline into the generator socket
Start generator
Plug your 'tool' into your normal 3-pin socket on the boat 230V circuit.
Plug* your battery charger into a normal 3-pin socket on the boat 230V circuit
*It depends on how your battery charger is wired - many are directly connected to the incoming 'shore line' so just do what you normally do when plugging into a bollard.
Edit to add :
Are you still thinking of a gas powered 'Jenny' ?
the 'rules' are the same for both Gas and petrol, but you MUST not store a petrol generator inside the boat, it must go into a locker with an overboard drain (similar to your gas locker)
A petrol generator will have fuel &/or volatile fumes in the carb so is very dangerous.
Thanks, I was thinking of getting petrol for two reasons, main reason its alot more economical I think!
And secondly they run hotter on LPG apparently that can make a few probs supposedly! Like harder to start etc!
Would be interested to hear your thoughts on this!
Also petrol I can run off the boat safley and tie up to a ring/something solid!
57 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:Or, throws it in the cut when you leave it running after 8pm
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Hi all,
Just wondering how I would set up a small 1k suitase generator so I can use the power directly but also any excess power goes into topping up my four leisure batteries?
I have 400 watts of solar on the roof aswel!
Not sure if I need a seperate controller! Or if I just plug into the shoreline and switch it over!!
Any advice is much appreciated.
Cheers.
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23 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Because that is the guidance from the Boat Safety. Having it on deck can rssult in exhaust fumes and Carbon Monoxide getting into the cabin.
There was an Coroners enquiry a couple of years ago where a gas safe qualified engineer, put a generator on his boat and 'modified' the exhaust so it vented overboar, the exhaust broke, the boat filled up with fumes and his wife and daughter died.
Its your life and your choice.
Sensible boaters will try and minimise the risk of death.
From the BSS
For some boaters wanting off-grid electrical power means that they see portable generators as the only option, but if the risks that come with their use are not fully appreciated deaths, injuries and loss of property can and has happened
Carbon monoxide (CO) – generators especially petrol ones can produce extremely high levels of CO, a poison gas that can kill in minutes or leave survivors with long term critical health effects. However diesel engine exhausts have also been linked to illness and CO deaths
Fire & explosion – the mishandling of petrol and leaking fuel from generators have resulted in spectacular incidents and that have seriously injured people and wrecked boats.
Also the use of poor cabling and connectors can also introduce just as real although possibly less obvious fire hazards.
Electrocution – any 230V ac system can be a killer and must be given
proper respect and precautions should be taken to guard against shocks.
These are the core points that should never be forgotten.
- Never install a portable generator permanently or make unauthorised modifications that are not supported by the manufacturer, or proprietary component supplier.
- Never run generators on the boat, or on the bank near to doors, vents, windows and hatches. If you can smell exhaust fumes in the boat, it could mean the cabin is also filling with deadly carbon monoxide.
I understand the concerns here, however with a slight breeze the fumes will be carried away, and I check my carbon monoxide alarms regularly. Also Id imagine my huge diesel engine kicks out more CO than a small petrol generator, but thanks for bringing to my attention...
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2 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Just before 'splashing the cash' you do realise that you should lift it off the boat and onto the bank to run it.
Its not about price its more a case of find one that is "carryable" and gives sufficient output to power whatever it is you need to power.
You don't buy a car because its a cheap price.
Thanks for your reply mate. Can I ask why do I need to put it on the bank to run it? Haven't seen any other boaters doing that is all!
Cheers
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The difference is the engine is in gear which I believe puts it under load...
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I am concerned about ruining my engine running it in idle for an hour or two a day to charge, so I am wondering which LPG generator for less than a grand is the best and why? Also are they fuel efficient? I.e how many hours running on max RPM will an average 13kg calor gas bottle last?
Much thanks everyone, appreciate the help...
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4 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
It is all to do with load and as most modern engine alternators will put a greater load on the engine than canal cruising early in the charging cycle it won't do any harm, especially if you keep the revs at the speed than gives maximum alternator output. Later in the charging period it may be more debatable and on modern engines I would not like to comment. I suspect better spec oils have done much to minimise any problems in this respect but if the engine uses a stepped top ring (not a bore rifge dodger) that is designed to twist under compression I would be far more wary about doing it. Not seen such a ring in any engines but know they exist or did exist.
Thanks very much I'll look into this... So how would I go about finding out what the most efficient RPM is to run my engine at whilst charging my batteries? Thanks again, much appreciated...
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Is running your engine in idle out of gear bad for the engine??? We have a fairly modern ISUZU 4 cylinder engine with a decent alternator and we run an inverter etc aswel!
I've heard on this forum that with a modern engine and alternator etc it doesn't make a difference so much, I am keen to know if this is true, and if so why this is the case!
Thanks in advance,
James.
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Hey Everyone,
I'd really appreciate any advice on boatyards that have an excellent reputation for overplating in and around London. Please can anyone point me in the right direction?
Many thanks,
James.
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5 hours ago, NB Alnwick said:
We use Tom Keeling, Small Craft Services - he is has repaired our Vanette cooker and he also carries out our full Boat Safety Certificate examination.
www.smallcraftservices.com
Edited to add that it would be worth talking to him if you plan to fit it yourself - we fitted our own Morco water heater and Tom subsequently checked and certified it.
I just gave him a call? Is he based near Oxford? Also we are liveaboards, not sure if that changes anything or not! Its such a simple job that I don't fancy paying an extra 400 pounds for someone to connect 3 pipes!
Wiring a basic 12v socket? What am I doing wrong???
in Boat Equipment
Posted
It seems pretty well wired up, the switch board has worked fine for everything on the boat since we bought it over a yr ago. Its just I've only now got round to wiring up a 12v socket so I can turn the inverter off and save some charge.
I think the fuse board is wired up fine as its works well for everything else, its just something I am doing wrong with the way I have wired up the socket, must be to do with the wire or fuse, can't think what else it can be?!!!