booke23
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Posts posted by booke23
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40 minutes ago, Stilllearning said:
their website doesn't say what the other 50 % is.
DEFRA tells you though https://smokecontrol.defra.gov.uk/fuel-details.php?id=27
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1 hour ago, Lady M said:
In my opinion, the last bit of the Llangollen canal from the aqueduct to the town is by far the best section. (Also the first section of canal I ever cruised on.)
Yes, it's spectacular.
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3 hours ago, IanD said:
You've only got 3.5 days then, allowing a few hours Monday afternoon and an hour Friday morning, so little chance of getting to the magic aqueduct unless you travel non-stop from dawn to dusk -- and maybe not even then given possible delays... 😞
I reckon it's about 45hrs cruising to get there and back, so agreed, he'd literally have to travel from dawn to dusk to do it in three days. I love long day cruising, but even I would draw the line at dawn to dusk cruising in June...or more specifically 4:46am - 9:40pm!
3 hours ago, nealeST said:actually if I show up early Monday they’ll let me out a bit earlier…they’re quite nice. We did six hours as soon as we got the boat last year before stopping…
In that case I'd give it a go if your crew are willing!
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3 hours ago, nealeST said:
My last hire trip out terminated at Nantwich. Now I plan to start where I left off. I regret not taking the Hurleston flight and going down the Llangollen. They tell me it’s nice down through Audlem though and beyond. I only have 4 days. So which do people vote for and suggest I do…Llangollen or head south of Audlem?
I’m planning my trip mid June…8 hours a day cruising, return to Nantwich.
Llangollen, although as mentioned you'll be hard pressed to make the aquaduct and back in 4 days. However as it's June and the days are long I'd say it's possible as long as you turn as soon as you cross the aquaduct in the entrance to the Llangollen feeder. You'll have to average 12 hours cruising a day though and ideally have crew for locks.
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1 hour ago, jonathanA said:
- for generating electricity or heating primarily for use in or on non-commercial premises
Exactly.
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2 hours ago, jonathanA said:
A petrol station near me sells red. They specifically wont sell it for inland boat use. I buy it for my agricultural tractor. I think non commercial electricity generation is also allowable. Use in 'plant' like diggers is no longer allowed.
Just tell them you're using it for heating.
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47 minutes ago, MJG said:
If you are concerned enough to ask on here about CO levels that cause headaches then it's time to stop using your stove until you have identified the source of the problem.
Agreed. To the OP, leave no stone unturned….get the baffle plate out and shine a light up the chimney and go outside and look down it to confirm there is no restriction. Check all rope seals and glass for condition….on a 9 year old stove they’ll probably need replacing if they haven’t already.
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Quite an achievement, but he didn't have to get on and off the boat and deal with stiff lock gates or swing bridges!
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28 minutes ago, LadyG said:
OK, so my Hauwei mifi is permanently connected to a USB, the battery has expanded alarmingly, will I be able to use something like this gadget
No, I’d just get another MIFI device that can be powered from USB if I was you as you already have USB power available. Just keeps things simple!
Or you could try removing the battery (assuming it’s easily accessible) and seeing if it will run off USB power alone.
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41 minutes ago, David Mack said:
That is a step down converter, with an input voltage between 15 and 72 V. So not much use on a boat (unless it has a 24V dc system).
I put the wrong link in. Should have been this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154964822532?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kF-Pw2gqSvK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=DxlPIgDkRra&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Edited my original post to correct.
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You could get a small WIFI device and just hang it in a window for less cost. What you propose is good and will perform better than a WIFI device in the window.
That model of Poynting antenna will plug straight into the Huawei B535. You could just plug the B535 into a 240v plug with the supplied power supply. Obviously that requires your inverter to be on. As the B535 actually runs on 12v, I prefer to run it direct from the boat's 12v system. To do this safely you need to use one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314575275471?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qvcqqyobsg-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=DxlPIgDkRra&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY to ensure the router isn't destroyed the 14.2 volts the system might get up to when the engine is running.
To connect it to the voltage regulator you could just cut the wire off the mains transformer and wire that to the 12v converter, but that renders your mains transformer useless so I bought this from ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351319811869?var=620459416696 the 2.1mm plug is the exact model of dc plug the B535 uses.
That's all there is to it!
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The other method I've seen to keep roller blinds against the side of the boat is to have a length of invisible fishing line secured vertically down each side of the blind. You then screw eyelets into each side of the lower bar on the roller blind and thread the vertical line through the eyelets so the blind is guided up and down the wall and doesn't fall away from it. It works very well and you can usually modify any old blind using this technique.
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17 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:
At the risk of upsetting some of the longer serving members (again😂), I’d say the self-belief in their knowledge is greater than the reality. Not least as many of the Facebook groups have trade professionals on who are actively working on the issues every day and are far more up to date with their knowledge. You also don’t get automatic ‘old boater good new boater bad and knows nothing’ attitude that seems endemic on here.
Dross! Have you read most of the threads on here!!!!! 😂
Yet you still frequent this forum if it's that bad?......🤷♂️
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Facebook groups are great for keeping up with community goings on, but you won't find the depth of technical knowledge that you get on this forum.
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1 hour ago, Manxcat54 said:
I am new to narrow boating, however I built a campervan a few years back, and I use a MAXVIEW system, it's the basic one. I travel all over and it has never failed, Oh beg your pardon, when I go to The TT races on The Isle Of Man it sometimes does, but I stay in some odd spots, and I was told by some brain wave, that signals can sometimes not manage to get around objects, I thought it was all from a satellite? But I think the one I have would be good on a boat.
A MAXVIEW internet setup uses 4G/5G network, no satellites involved!
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4 hours ago, BlueStringPudding said:
@booke23 I intentionally didn't use any hot water last night after your idea about the coil in the calorifier. Could this be related to why the header tank, after a few refills last night, has finally stopped emptying? (Asking because I didn't fully understand the dynamics of how using hot water would increase coolant leak inside the calorifier. But I would like to understand it. Thanks) Incidentally, Tree Monkey and I tasted the tap water from the hot tap before running the engine yesterday and couldn't taste any coolant or see any colour. It doesn't mean there is no leak from one of the coils only that it wasn't obvious from the domestic water.
A leaking calorifier coil could have various symptoms depending on the specifics of your setup. One scenario might be that it won't leak while the domestic water system is pressurised (ie while the water pump is on) but does so slowly when it's off....perhaps even back filling your domestic water tank in the bow if the header tank is high enough. This could account for the total lack of evidence of a water leak.
In the absence of any other evidence, It might be worth isolating or bypassing the calorifier coil just to rule it out.
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51 minutes ago, Lincoby said:
After many years coastal sailing I’ve been researching buying a Narrowboat and wondered what a broker would ideally choose to sell based on popular queries.
I am guessing a semi trad reverse layout but could be surprised !
As a thought experiment….What would a coastal marine broker choose to sell….a RIB, a motor cruiser, a racing Yacht, a sloop?
It’s probably a tricky question to answer as all customers are different. I suspect most brokers would say ‘any boat that is correctly priced’ as I’m sure their worst nightmare is a seller who insists their boat is worth £20k more than it is and sits on brokerage for months.
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41 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
I am surprised if the same header tank fills the engine calorifier and radiators. That would be a very strange set up sharing engine coolant with the radiators.
Good point. On the beta 30 (Kubota 3 cylinder) an external header tank is optional. The engine has a built in tank like below.
To @BlueStringPudding some photos might help.
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A leak in the calorifier heat exchanger coil? This would drop the header tank as you use hot water from the taps. Or maybe an external leak on a skin tank?
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2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
It will have a nice beat to it.
The reason for the mixed reviews is that some thought Ringo was better.
I heard it’s because they’re made from bits and pieces.
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4 hours ago, Scholar Gypsy said:
And here is the sailing equivalent, if your mast is too tall to fit under the bridge ...
That’s impressive!
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15 minutes ago, magnetman said:
12 yars
West country accent?
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Not strictly canal based but it does involve a lock!
I was reading about the history of the USS White Sands, a mobile dry dock ship which was decommissioned in 1974. She was purchased by a ship building company to be used as a permanent dry dock in Lake Seattle, USA. This involved transiting an 80ft wide lock....the ship's beam was 81ft. The solution? Well they weighed down one side of the ship and transited the locks while listing 38 degrees.
P.s I hope this doesn't give widebeam boaters any ideas!
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9 hours ago, liambarrett-17 said:
It’s 40ft.
Not tiny then. My narrowboat is 40ft and it currently has 400w of solar. I could easily double that to 800w and if I was happy to loose all the roof 1kw would be possible. But my boat has a big cabin for a 40 footer…..how much solar you can fit will depend on your cabin size and design (chimneys, pigeon boxes etc), and how much roof you are actually comfortable to loose as it’s handy for storage etc.
Improving onboard Mobile communications
in Boat Equipment
Posted
A glance on google reveals very few options. SONOS have a device called a boost that looks like it runs on 5 volts so you could get a small step down transformer to run it from 12v. Other than that wifi boosters seem to all plug direct into 240v sockets.
My Huawei b535 has very powerful wifi.....I get a signal outside at the very stern of the boat even though the router is at the front of the boat, inside a steel cabin!