RickS
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Posts posted by RickS
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Header tank level is fine (between min and max) and I bled the radiators and checked the system air bleed valve. Nothing in the rads and only a tiny amount of air in the system in general.
Was advised to try adjusting the balancing valve (?) on the hot water feed to the calorifier to force the hot water into the radiator part of the system but nada. Pipes that side of the valve not even warm. Does that mean that any block is right at the start of the system as it were?
Wasn't at the boat for quite a lot of the warmer weather this year and hot water was provided by the immersion for short periods (I know!). Now that it is going to get cooler soon, I thought I would check that the radiators worked as they did last year - and that's how I found them to be not working
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Had a new Eberspacher fitted last September and hot water and rads worked OK. For some reason, the rads now no longer heat up but the hot water is fine.
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I have put in a request for a quote from checkatrade, so fingers crossed. Thanks for advice frangar, Tracy and Tonka. I may well have to consider dIYing it.
My original issue is that the central heating system is not getting warm at all. The hot water works fine fro the Eberspacher but the rads don't even get warm. Tried adjusting the water flow valve to make the heating go to the rads (I know I'm not explaining that very well) but no joy.
Was advised it was probably a block somewhere in teh system - could be pricey to find. Possibly best solution is to replace rads (they are pretty old) and then flushing the system through (?) which should clear any block - hence this high quote.
Any way to check whether any block is in a particular section of the system? Presumably as the pipes don't get warm at all the blockage must be before the first radiator?
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As an example of possible sizing issues, two of my four rads are 950mm wide - can't find any that size, just 900 or 1000. Maybe I haven't searched enough.
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I did think that might be possible, but if it gets complicated (radiators needing extra bits of pipe as can't source same size ones) I am out on a limb. Flushing the system through feels as if it might be difficult as well
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Hello
I have just been quoted what, to me, seems quite a lot for replacing four radiators & valves and flushing the system through. Therefore I wonder if anyone knows a reasonably priced plumber in the Norton junction area please?
The price I was quoted was the best part of £1800 and that was from my marina, about £570 was just for the rads and valves
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Thanks Jen and Bengo, very useful and apologies for the tardy reply. Doesn't sound as complicated as I feared.
Mostly nothing on TV Bengo, I agree, but there is always the football!
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I have just bought an Omnimax aerial and would like to ask about wiring the signal booster unit that comes with it.
They provide a fused cable with bare wires at the other end. Because my TV runs on 12V, it is using the single, nearby cigar-type socket.
Is there a way to run both the TV and the signal booster from the same socket please? How would I attach the bare wires from the booster unit?
This is probably really basic to most of you so bear with me
Ta
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Thank you everyone who posted advice - very useful.
To be honest, I wasn't expecting the fairly universal advice of 'scrape it off and start again' (I paraphrase). This is a much larger job than I expected after only a year.
Thanks again
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My cratch board was installed Feb 22 and I was planning to give it another coat of varnish this year when the sunshine is a bit more consistent.
I noticed today that along the edge of the outside bottom beading there are a couple of small dark patches. Not too worried as I will let them dry out - if that is the cause - before varnishing.
The varnish used when the board was installed was Ronseal Exterior Varnish Satin Clear, which is water-based i believe.
My question is whether i should continue with this varnish or go for something possibly more durable, possibly not water-based. I'm not sure if I can put solvent-based varnish over the water-based stuff already on, or if I would want to, and would appreciate any advice
Cheers
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Thanks David, I have to go into Braunston some time this week. I'll pop in and have a chat.
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Again, thanks all for the usual helpful suggestions - invaluable!
I was only thinking about three weeks - I am hoping to do the decks and roof outside and deal with any window / other issues outside too. Weather dependant
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Thanks all for the really helpful replies. I shall endeavour to make contact with your suggested yards to see what the availabilty and prices are.
Just for reference, I am moored at Welton Hythe and sadly I can't book the dock and stay on board - this may change with the new owners. It is also a bit short for my boat, as matty40s said.
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Thanks for the reply frahkn. I am afraid i don't know whereabouts that is (but I can Google it).
I should have mentioned that I am moored in the East Midlands at the moment, so local-ish would be nice
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Afternoon.
Does anyone know of a wetdock with power that can accomodate a 66 foot boat that I can also stay on whilst I work please?
My marina does not let one stay on the boat whilst in the dock - I had no idea that this might be an issue (insurance I believe), which obviously would place a large additional cost for accomodation.
Thanks
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Thanks all. Went a bit postal with the tape today whilst it was fine, just to see if I could stop the drips. Posts here have made me realise that the tape (Gorilla waterproof tape) would not neccessarily stop leaks, I was hopeful it might reduce the drips.
Rain this afternoon caused the same level of drippage, hwich makes me think (thanks Tony Brooks) that my arrangement of chimney and inner chimney might be the problem. Next time it rains, my plan is to not light a fire, remove the chimney and put a cap on the flue collar, which, hopefully should tell me if the rain is getting down the chimney - at which point I wal ask about sealing the flue in the collar on the inside.
Reading other posts about leaks, it seems that even small cracks in filler / rust patches on the roof can cause a lot of water to enter through the roof. I think I have been naive about this and need to deal with every possible entry (when the weather improves)
Used Captain Tolley's around windows and mushrooms and I could smell it in the water that eventually made itsway to the cabin bilge. Either the crack was bigger than it could deal with or it needs more applications.
Thank you to all who posted (blackrose - I know I should have started at the point you mention, but to be honest there seem to be a million jobs that take priority - until it rains. I appreciate the advice though). I learn a lot even though i tend to get the general feeling that I am making very obvious errors
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It is a steel boat with a steel roof. I don't think condensation would cause this - or rather it concides with rainfall and the heavier the rain, the heavier the dripping.
There is the stub of a radio aerial on the opposite side of the roof which, even though I have taped over it, there seems to be wetness beneath it (I can feel through a hole in the lining to feel this).
I will have to put more tape on this until it stops to see if this is causing the dripping onto the stove.
flue is in good nick - only a year or so old and no sign of corrosion
1 minute ago, rusty69 said:The other possibility, if you are sure the rood collar itself is sealed is the through bolts themselves that secure the collar to the roof.
The roof collar is pretty much covered - no guarantee 100% covered but pretty sure
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Hello
without going into huge detail, I have rain (I think) still entering the boat from somewhere. I spent most of the Summer searching for the leak and sealing what I can. Still coming in from somwhere, so I have taped every possible entry point on the roof and windows as temporary measure. Whether this is a good plan or not I don't care to be honest, i've pretty much lost patience with it.
Anyway, that is background really, the issue is that when there is rain, water spits onto the hot stove surface from somewhere on the ceiling collar and i jsut can't figure how it's getting in.
I have a double chimney and a top hat - I don't get, if the rain is coming down the chimney, how it transfers to the outside of the flue - it must be getting through the roof somewhere else and running to the flue is all I've got, but I can't see where from.
Has anyone else had this sort of problem, and what did it turn out to be please?
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Jonathan, Spuyten, thank you for your replies.
I found the battery holder after your post Spuyten, thank you. It was annoyingly obvious when I Knew where to look 😀 I was convinced I had gone over every inch of the blasted thing with no luck. Anyway, battery fitted and all working. I still think that the manual is appalling, with no mention of the battery, or how to replace it.
After going through every nook and cranny of this cooker, I have to say, despite it working fine, for the not inconsiderable amount of money i paid, it is rather cheaply put together. I suppose limited production runs and a relatively captive market helps push the price up - moan over
Thanks again
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Thanks for the reply David. Yes, the model I bought was the battery ignition one.
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Don't laugh, but I've had the cooker for a while and haven't used the oven yet, just the hob!
My issue is two fold - first, I can't figure out where to put the batteries for the ignition knob (have been using a flexible neck light for the hob)
Second, I can't figure out where to light the oven with the lighter thingy - ideally I suppose \I would use the ignition button, but, as I say, I can't figure out where to put the batteries.
I have got the grill to light, but that's a bit more obvious.
I'm happy to use the lighter for the oven - and, of course, it's useful to know where to apply the flame if the batteries die - but should at least know \i can use the ignition button.
The manual is useless, and there seems to very little information, other than the manual, online. You would think it would be in the manual, but no.
Any help would be gratefully received
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Thankyou all - hugely grateful to all of your suggestions.
I may well try just screwing into the wood frame Tony, then Insert Nuts if it starts to be an issue.
I would use magnets but I am not sure whether they would be strong enough to maintain a good seal as they have to contend with a curved ceiling - I am fairly sure the frame also curves with the ceiling rather than being built level (if you see what I mean).
I hear what you are saying about acrylic cracking Jen - hadn't really considered that. I think thick-ish rubber washers may well help
Bit puzzled why Screwfix didn't come up with the Insert Nuts and the link from Hudds Lad as Screwfix obviously stock these items. I am going to guess that I clearly need to work on my explanation skills rather than blaming Screwfix.
Thanks again. Yet another reason why this forum is a fantastic resource, particularly to novices 😀
Thanks Chris with the magnetic strip suggestion - again, I'm not sure it will deal with the curvature. I will be using this sort of thing on the windows though.
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I want to fit acrylic sheet to cover the frame of the Houdini hatch but need suggestions for fittings.
As I only really want it for 6 months of the year, I don't think screwing straight into the frame would do it much good if the screw was taken out and put back in a lot (admittedly only a couple of times per year).
I am hoping there is something like a threaded tube that stays in the wooden frame permanently and a screw/bolt with a domed washer can fit into that - but I have no idea what that might be called. I did try explaining it to someone at Screwfix, but got a bit of blank look.
Any suggestions please?
Thanks
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My stove's roof collar on the outside of the boat is letting in some water when there is heavy rain. The join is a bit tatty and rusty. After clearing and treating the rust, the plan is to run a bead of silicone then paint with Hammerite or similar. Don't know if I can use any old silicone or do I have to use something special, so wondered if anyone could recommend a brand of black silicone sealant for this purpose.
Thanks
Radiator replacement pricing
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
It is, yes. It is attached to the pipe going to the calorifier coil.