Sharkness

Thanks for the replies and the insight in to the chassis of a Reliant Robin. I have no engine currently attached and when I do it's an outboard anyway so it shouldn't be an issue. I don't even have gas onboard as my cooking facilities are in a shed on my mooring. I'll just need to make sure I've got adequate ventilation for the burner to use

Nope, the question is definitely along the lines of "is there a product that provides an adequate amount of protection for less money than vermiculite?". I'm not asking whether I can make a protective board out of sawdust and tissue paper, I'm researching a cost-effective and viable alternative. I don't even know what the 'correct board' is, hence me asking the question. Vermiculite is probably overkill seeing as it is heat resistant to over 1100 centigrade which is considerably more than I will ever kick out of my stove. I'm looking for something that will protect from temperatures of up to 300 degrees. Smart-assery isn't helpful Cheers, would you suggest making a wooden frame and making the board in it before removing, maybe? Doesn't fire cement need quite a bit of heat to go off? I have a tub at home that suggests applying it and gradually increasing the stove temperature to set it

Cheers. The board will be flush to the hull with no cavity in the section above the gunwale but with a significant cavity below the gunwale with things as they are at the moment. I presume a gap behind the backerboard makes more difference than one in front of it? If that is the case, it might be that I can put some timber on the wall above the gunwale to bring the board a bit closer to the stove and achieve a gap behind it. The gap in the area below the gunwale is more than enough I would think

Hi, I'm in the process of installing a wood burner on a GRP cruiser. The top of the burner sits roughly level with the gunwale and about 120mm from the side of the boat at that point, most of the burner is much further away from the hull because it is next to the part of the hull which is under the gunwale. The flue goes through a wooden wall and is wrapped in 1200°c-proof furnace insulation at the point where it goes through the wall, and then it goes through the roof of the boat through a dektite roof flashing which is filled with the furnace insulation too. The flue is wrapped in exhaust wrap at the point it goes through the flashing and then sealed around with kapton tape. I'm certain that the flue is adequately insulated and will cause me no problems, the technique used for the flue is the same as my brother has used in a bell tent for years with no damage to the canvas. My concern though, is how to protect the hull at the side of the stove. My furnace insulation is bits left over from a pizza oven I built earlier this year. The insulation goes over the top of the oven and the bottom of the oven sits on a wooden table protected by vermiculite. Pizzas are cooked with the stone temperature at 500°c and there are no signs of damage whatsoever on the wooden table it sits on with a vermiculite board underneath it so I'm guessing in an ideal world, that vermiculite would be the option to go for, but I'm trying to do this on the cheap and it'd cost me more in vermiculite than I've spent on the stove! I can get Hardiebacker boards for next to nothing from a friend who uses them for bathroom installations and he reckons that it'll do the job just glued on to the wall above the gunwale and that will create a cavity area between the board and the hull below the gunwale. Does this sound reasonable? I have read that at 80°, damage can be done to the resin in the hull, 80° doesn't sound a lot to me!