wergie
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Posts posted by wergie
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As a matter of interest if anyone on here needs a copper Lister oil box I have one that's taking up space...
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Do you have a silencer fitted into your exhaust?
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Hi Andy,
I'm not sure what size my prop is but I've deduced through the final law of engineering i.e 'when all else fails,read the manufacturers instructions', that having eliminated everything else, all that's left is that my prop is too large.. The old engine, a 1937, 16hp Lister CE had a maahoosive flywheel and generated a huge amount of torque,so was able to turn a big prop. The Sabb, although twice as powerful doesn't have such a large flywheel so isn't as torquey, and as a consequence is a bit smokey...its a bit like trying to drive off in third gear... all good fun though... It does make a lovely noise though...
also, it's fitted in a 57' narrowboat...
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If you download the manual for your engine you'll find that the maximum prop size is 20 x 16,so if you use your current prop you'll be a little underpropped.
I have the same engine with a PRM 2-1 box but I need to fit a smaller prop as my engine is overpropped at the moment and is a little smoky . I was planning to fit a smaller prop the week before last but I'm under house arrest at the moment so it will have to wait. If you want a copy of the manual PM me and I'll send it to you.
Steve
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If you look on youtube for Al's Kitchen he shows you how to make the base gravy as used in British Indian restaurants. He makes it in bulk and uses it as required. He also has lots of recipes for different styles of curry as well.
Have fun peeling those onions...
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Hi all,
I've recently brought one of these engines from Marine Enterprises and I'm very happy so far.
I brought it as a replacement for a knackered Lister CE .
The engine went to Paul Redshaw for some prep work before installation. He changed the gearbox for my existing PRM , fitted new fuel pipework, replaced the air filter and alternator and then installed it with Roger Farrington at Braunston boats doing the steel work, and they did a very good job.
Its worth remembering that these engines are designed for ships lifeboats, and as such they would not need to to run for long periods, as opposed to the Sabb 2g series.
To this end these engines are direct injection units, and the injector service interval is only 200 running hours. Also, the owners manual recommends the use of 'road grade diesel'. I've just had my injectors rebuilt and will be refitting them this weekend after my 6 week summer cruise.
There is a series of 4 videos on youtube focused on stripping down the cylinder heads and overhauling a 2j engine which you might find helpful.
So, on the whole I'm very pleased with my new old engine, I lost count of the number of people who admired the noise it was making during the summer and I'm hoping to get much more good service from it.
Steve
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Not a bush as such, I need a piece of tube about 8 inches long, 31/4 id at one end, 3''od at the other.
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I'm in London but my boat lives in Warwick
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OK chaps, thanks for your prompt replies and input. Now, my boss has a 2 inch BSP thread on the underside, which the engine exhaust screws into. The outside part is not threaded at all, its the same as a solid fuel stove flue in that respect, the flue stack should just sit on the boss. The boss itself is 65mm high .
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OK you lot, listen up and pay attention at the back there.
I have a problem with my engine exhaust stack, or rather the lack of one.
What I have got is a 3 and a 1/4 inch (82mm) OD cast iron boss on my engine room roof and what I would like is a hinged foldy down exhaust stack to fit on said boss.
Now, I can get a 3inch hinge from Tony Redshaw, so what I really need is a 31/4'' to 3'' reducer, or failing that some 31/4 OD steel tube, though it appears to be easier to find unicorn poo.
Has anyone else had this problem and does anyone know why a 3 1/4'' boss was ever invented.....I'm sure theres a special place in Hades for the people behind it..
Over to you..
Steve
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OK you lot, pay attention please..
I'm about to replace my rather knackered old engine with something a little more powerful.
My current engine is rated at 16 hp, and has a vertical skin tank has been sized accordingly. It's replacement will be 30hp, hence the need for some additional cooling.
Now, my cunning plan is to build a horizontal keel tank in the drip tray under the engine. The tray is about 6' x 2', so there's plenty of area, but what I need to know is Will It Work.
Opinions so far seem to be divided...
If anyone has any experience of horizontal cooling tanks, if they work and how they are baffled internally I would be delighted to hear from you.
Steve
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Hi Dave
Why do you want a bubble tester and a test T, you don't need both. Also, I doubt you can get a 10mm test T
I would use 3/8 tube rather than 10mm as it has greater wall thickness, and Wade fittings, more expensive but much more better.
Hope this helps,
Steve
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The outlet pipe from my webasto(which is now working fine!) ends in a T junction. One side runs in a loop to the bathroom radiator with the califier in and out let pipes off it. The other side feeds two radiators that run in parallel the full length of the boat. The problem I am having is the radiators take ages to heat up and the return pipe from them is always cold to touch. I can alter the flow through the bathroom radiator but the califier has no stop tap . Is the water taking the easiest route via the califier then back again ? If so if i fittted a stop tap to the califier would it solve the problem?
You could also install a Thermostatic control valve which will shut down the heating water to the calorfier when it gets hot, then you will get full flow to your radiators. Honeywell manufacture these valves, in both 2 and 3 port models.
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It's an industrial conversion (ex stationary engine) and I think that the manual I got from internal fire will be OK to get on with. I need to sort out the exhaust and cooling gubbins at the moment but have been sidetracked by actualy doing some work on my own boat today.
The dual compression system on this engine is two big red levers on each end of the engine that operate the double seated valve thingy in the socondary combustion chamber. Anyway it appears that this valve is leaking so that in one postion it chuffs exhaust fumes and oil out of the side of the engine!
For the fuel system, I have disregarded convention and used a simple electric (facet) pump to ensure decent fed pressure to the injection pump regardless of temperature or the stinky heating oil that the chandlers pass off as red diesel. The manual suggests at least 3' of fuel head and this is difficult to achieve in a narrow boat.
When I have got all the vital fluids appropriately contained and directed I will lift the head and have a gander, I'm sure I can get it to run better than it does.
Regards
Arnot
Hi Arnot,
I would be very interested to know if you have any vibration problems when you get your engine running. My engine vibrates quite badly, probably because of the Heath Robinson mounting that has been used. It needs to be sorted but I would like to see what other people have done before I wield the gas spanner
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I am helping someone fit a Lister CE2 into a tugboat.
Having got it installed on the beds, when it was run up it it seems it needs a bit of TLC.
The head gasket is leaking and it only fires on one cylinder at tickover.
Can anyone point me in the direction of an owners manual or a service manual before the head is lifted?
There seems to be a strange decompression or variable compression system on the side of the head....
Regards
Arnot
Hi Arnot,
I am the proud owner of a CE, which runs quite well most of the time. Not sure if the Owners manual will be much help though (mine is a bit thin). I think new head gaskets are available from Tony Redshaw
Have you tried venting the fuel pump (2 vents on top of the pump)
The strange decompression thingy's on the side of the head are for starting the engine (wind them in) Once the engine is warm , wind them out for greater fuel economy.
Please let me know how you get on, and do let me know if you have a marine CE or an industrial conversioin (like mine)
Regards,
Steve
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Hi Alan,
For what it's worth it sounds to me like your diaphragm has stretched, so it looks ok, but because it has streched it will not lift the gas valve far enough to admit sufficient gas onto the burner bar. Also worth lubricating the push rod/spindle with a little silicon grease if it is sticking.
Please also note that in a domestic situation you would be in contravention of numerous gas regs, which are there for a very good reason, but , as you also know they don't to apply to privately owned boats. Now, it is your boat, and you can do as you see fit......... but please remember a little knowlege can be a dangerous thing !!!!
Steve (gas installer)
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Thanks Pete,
I do plan to try descaling, but to be honest if it was working perfectly a month ago, and not now, it's hard to see how it's got furred up in 4 weeks of not being used.
The diaphragm, despite presumably being as old as the heater (13 years) seems to be in remarkably good nick. It's flexible, unmarked and definitely not holed. I can't see a lot of point in replacing, unless there's something about them I don't understand. (Incidentally this is the part that people always say is susceptible to frost damage - as it's flexible, I'm struggling to see why ?
)What did interest me though is it pushes up on a large flat disk that is mounted on a metal pin that passes through the side of the housing to control a gas valve. That disk takes considerable pressure to move, being a very tight fit in the seal it passes through. I've no practical experience of these things, but am surprised just how much resistance there is in that sliding joint. But again it's very hard to see how it could have suddenly gone wrong since a month ago, so I suppose it's meant to be like it is.
Inspirations failing me, and I really don't want to take the gas control side of it to bits, without knowing I can replace any seals or gaskets I damage.
Anyway tomorrow I'll try descaling, and have another go at the burner & jets (which seem clean already) and the heat exchanger fins, (pretty good, but I could get even clearer).
Anybody know a reliable engineer in the Hertfordshire area, who's codes of practice will permit them to work on an open flued device ?
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I love the livaboard life, but i occasionally miss a few home luxuries, these i've managed to deal with over the last 7-8 years, generally I pick on one a year as a project.
The next project is the cooker/hob
Is cooking with bottled gas always a little less than exciting, stir frys are more of a slow sizzle, is there a way of getting mains performance from an LPG source, is it bigger pipes needed or perhaps jets or even the fact the world has moved on from the Vanette hob grill and oven combination I have fitted.
The oven is fine as long as you remember to rotate the cake or pizza on a regular basis.
I'd happily use more gas as I have room for 4 X 13kg bottles, one bottle generally lasts 7-8 months cooking only, and i can use a bottle a week if I use the Aldi for heating.
Any ideas?
All of the Domestic gas hobs that I have installed over the last 5 years have come with a set of LPG gas jets, to enable conversion to LPG, so you should be able to install any domestic gas hob onto your boat.
As for perfomance, that depends on how warm your gas bottles are and the length and diameter of the gas supply pipework, although domestic hob burners do appear to be bigger than those found on a Vannette hob.
When I get around to doing my galley I want to install a Baumatic B40, which is circular and only has 3 burners,
so it's a bit smaller than a standard hob, so it might be worth looking at!
Hope that helps,
Steve
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Hi all,
Before I decide which heater unit to install in my pride and joy I thought I would pick the collective forum brain as to which unit is most up to the job. I am most interested in reliablity, ease of installation and any common problems with these units once they are installed.
I look forward to your thoughts on the subject.
Steve
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No trouble at all, I drive past there 6 days out of 7 and can always spare a few minutes to have a wander up or down the towpath.
How long is she going to be there? Now I know where she is I'll look over on a daily basis. Drop me a PM.
Hi Moley,
I'm intending to go up on Sunday to pick her up and hopefully head to Saul for the Festival (i've got to do car parking duty when i get their)'
but it all depends on the height of the Severn!!, Still, i've never been to Stourport, which is just as well as i could be there for some time!!
Regards,
Steve
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Hi Wergie,
message from Moley your boat is perfectly ok, right way up,sitting normally all ropes secure.
Excellent news, many thanks for your trouble, i'm most gratefull,
Cheers,
Steve
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Hi Steve,
The canal's fine, all the overflows have done their job. I've never seen the Stour up so high though and there's plenty of flooding in the area. A few miles up at Swindon / Hinksford there are lakes where I've never in my life seen lakes, but I'm sure your boat will be fine. The canal's well above the river.
Drove over the Severn last night, that's very high and very brown, and it usually takes a few days for that to peak.
I'm not going Stourton way today, but will take a look tomorrow. What'swould have a look for me if you are going that way.
Hi Steve,
The canal's fine, all the overflows have done their job. I've never seen the Stour up so high though and there's plenty of flooding in the area. A few miles up at Swindon / Hinksford there are lakes where I've never in my life seen lakes, but I'm sure your boat will be fine. The canal's well above the river.
Drove over the Severn last night, that's very high and very brown, and it usually takes a few days for that to peak.
I'm not going Stourton way today, but will take a look tomorrow. What'swould have a look for me if you are going that way.
Hi Steve,The canal's fine, all the overflows have done their job. I've never seen the Stour up so high though and there's plenty of flooding in the area. A few miles up at Swindon / Hinksford there are lakes where I've never in my life seen lakes, but I'm sure your boat will be fine. The canal's well above the river.
Drove over the Severn last night, that's very high and very brown, and it usually takes a few days for that to peak.
I'm not going Stourton way today, but will take a look tomorrow. What's the boat name?
Hi Moley,
I'm not quite sure how to work this reply button thingy, but my boat is called Pat, and it is moored up just below Stewpony lock. If you are going that way i would be very gratefull if you could have a look for me.
Many thanks,
Steve
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Hi All,
I've just seen the reports of heavy flooding in the Birmingham area on the 10 o'clock news, and as i have left my boat at Stourton on the Staffs and Worcs i've become a little concerned as to the state of the canal. Can anyone give me an update on the conditions in the area, just in case i have to make an emergency trip up North!!
Cheers,
Steve
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Hi Everyone,
I need help locating spare bulbs for my interior cabin lights. The bulbs in question are 12 volt, 15watt, bayonet fitting with 2 contcts on the base. The overall length is about 36 mm and the bayonet is 15mm diameter.
Does anyone know of a supplier?
Cheers,
Steve
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Automatic float switch recommendations?
in New to Boating?
Posted
Johnson make a submersible bilge pump that can be operated with a solid state level detection device, so no moving parts, but they ain't a cheap option