Jump to content

Sofia

Member
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Sofia

  1. 46 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

    According to mr google and assuming it is an Isuzu base engine type 4LB1, it is api spec CC or CD typically 15w40 depending on temperature.


    Here is a link for an engine manual from a us generator supplier.  I don’t guarantee it is free from virus etc, but the pdf opened ok and without warning on my iPad.  
     

    https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/ISUZU-4LE1-OPM.pdf

    Thank you :)

    9 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

    15/40 end of.

    Thank you

  2. 3 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

    Before everyone else jumps in, I'd suggest 15w/40 it's a mineral oil with plenty of body - ideal for commercial duty engines

     

    Folks on here suggest 10w/40 which (IMHO) is too thin and may not lubricate too well in an old engine. Someone at Beta  Marine nearly exploded when I suggested 10/40 (I had loads of it). But times change.... The basis is that 10 grade oil is semi-synthetic and is too slippery, that encourages glazed bores = smokey exhaust (you don't want that)

     

    Comments will doubtless follow - and I'd be interested to see their arguments...

    Thank you

  3. 6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

    Basically - yes.

     

    It may work, it may not. It depends on the wire size and distance from the battery.

    But - if it doesn't work you will have a least a starting point for investigating the fault.

    So I wouldn't ruin the fridge just testing it out? 

    7 minutes ago, dccruiser said:

    I would follow the 2 wires in your first pic, i think you will find they go onto spade connectors at the back of the fridge where the other wires are connected , if so i would pull them off there and just put spade connectors on your "new" wires and connect in the same way they were connected , rather than having an unnecessary join a foot along the wires.

     

    Rick

    Thanks, that makes sense

  4. 15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

    OK, then the battery charger will be 'masking' any inadequacies in the wiring and volt drop.

    Just be prepared that when you 'cut the umbilical' you may (or may not) find that your fridge / freezer works ok during the day when the engine is running, but overnight everything defrosts.

     

    I had exactly this problem so it is not just theory.

    My fridge was only about 2 metres from the Bus-bar supply and I had to rewire with 8mm squared (NOT 8mm diameter) cabling to get it to work correctly.

    Ok thank you. So in theory if I connect the wiring up to the previous fridge wiring then it will work when connected to shoreline but when disconnected from shoreline it might not work as the cable is not providing enough power?

  5. 13 minutes ago, Keeping Up said:

    If the wires used to run a fridge ok, the chances are that they'll be ok now because the new fridges are generally more efficient than old ones, except that as the new one is a fridge/freezer it may need more current especially at start-up.

    The old fridge was a cheap one which did not run well in the first place, as I don't think it was meant for continuous usage. Do indeed to follow the cable back the batteries, unplug, crimp wires and the connect back up to the batteries ? 

  6. 7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

    Yes, red connects to red and black to black. Hopefully you have noted Shoreline’s instructions as to cable size for the feed? And fusing? Ideally the connections should be crimped - it needs to be a really good connection. 

    The live wires were already behind our previous fridge in which must run directly to the batteries. I did notice the cable length, they must no more than 5 metres long. 

  7. Hello everyone,

     

    I hope you can help. Our water pump stopped working and I gave it bash and it started working again. From what I have read online it could be work brushes? I have ordered a new pump to replace it however this morning I had shower and now the shower pump is on and making the noise but it is not pumping out the water. The pump is situated under our bed and I can get to it. Does this need replacing also or can it be fixed?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.