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Obone

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  1. Thanks for the advice. Solar is slowly winning me over. Little alarmed by the set up costs but I do understand how good they have become.
  2. Generally we isolate the batteries when we are away from the boat, so the only draw would be the bilge pump, and if that being used a lot then I guess we have a rather more serious issue! Also will a trickle charger be suitable to attached across all four leisure batteries at the same time?
  3. Thank you for everyone’s advice re our inverter. We are limping on through the season with our poorly batteries, and mainly avoiding using the inverter. My thoughts are now turning to installing new batteries next season and modifications that may be easily made to our charging system. We have an older Stirling Combi unit. The biggest issue it seems to me (apart from the inherent inefficiency of the inverter) is that our combi inverter will only allow battery charging and producing 230v at the same time. There is no option to have each function individually. As a result I am unwilling to leave the unit on for extended periods over the winter. What would be the best way round this set up or what would be the easiest solution?
  4. I do have in my possession, from a previous life, a fairly fancy CTEK charger that has a recondition function. Could this help reverse the sulphation?
  5. Thank you for your reply. I have a lot to learn about batteries. Do boaters monitor currents? My knowledge extends to the use of shunts, but I do remember the monitoring system we used having a level of complexity I don’t really want on board. Further to nicknorman’s last post, it is noticeable that the batteries do have greater capacity on the first evening out from the Marina after the batteries have been on long term charge via the combi unit.
  6. Although it seems that the batteries are more than likely goosed I have the information as requested in v1. 1. Sealed deep cycle batteries 2. 4 off Numax CXV XV31MF (110Ah). They are at least four years old. 3. Battery voltage is monitored using a three digital digital read out. No obvious make but does have code YB27-V14 on PCB. 4. Batteries are charged by an engine driven alternator when underway, and via a mains supply through the inverter combi unit whilst in Marina. 5. Alternator 80A/12v HMI model number 900021-ALS (standard fit in Isuzu engines) 6. Measured charging voltage 14.37v 7/8. Underway the batteries are charged continuously by the alternator. Voltage initially rises to high 12volts ending the day above 14 volts. When moored voltage is monitored using the digital read out described above. When it falls below 12v we start the engine or turn off the inverter. When in the Marina the charging is carried out via the inverter combi unit (Sterling Pro Combi S). This unit will only charge the batteries if also operating as an inverter. It does not have a stand alone charging facility, hence why the batteries were not charged over the winter. 9. I believe the combi unit monitors the voltage and maintains charge on ‘float’ after initial charge. Whilst motoring there is no such monitoring control the alternator output. 10. Underperformance as previously described. recommendation for improvements to battery regime gladly received, as would recommendations for system/instrumentation upgrades. owen
  7. No doubt this fact will open me to howls of derision from all but it may help. Due to work commitments and the electric system set up the batteries were left isolated over the winter, with no charging or load attached (I know this is not ideal). On our return the battery voltage read out showed 12.2v. I also understand that voltage is not a direct indicator of battery SoC. Is instrumentation available hat can measure SoC?
  8. I should add that there is no other 230v draw on the inverter.
  9. I have based my observations on a voltage output digital reading, which I assume averages the four domestic battery output.
  10. The 12v fridge doesn’t seem to dent the battery at all during our days moored up, even when it is hot as it has been in the last few days. This is partly why the inverter come under suspicion. Small TV are all we need by the way. Thanks for for your response
  11. I am genuinely appreciative of your initial response, and it confirms our suspicions. I will hopefully be able to complete the checklist from v1 tomorrow and get back to you then. Sometimes real life gets in the way of my boating.
  12. Thank you for your swift response. I’ll buy a 12v TV. Cheaper than four new batteries.
  13. Do inverters become less efficient with age? we typically spend two to three weeks away cruising in the NW, on average charging for five hours. At rest in the evening or moored during the day with the inverter switched off, the voltage stays steady in the high 12 volts. When we switch on the inverter the voltage falls to below 12 volts in under two hours. Admittedly we only have the inverter on for TV (we know not to use hair driers, vacuums, washing machines etc without running the engine). Is this indicative of aging batteries (bank of four deep cycle batteries- probably over five years old), or might it be a faulty inverter? Or should I just buy a 12v TV? owen7
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