[Centaflex for Yanmar KM2P-1]

Hi

 

Engine: Yanmar 3YM30 (approx 2006)

Boat: Narrowboat

 

We've recently had our gearbox fail and it's being replaced by RCR who are doing an amazing job.  The issue we have is that the new gearbox (which I think is a Yanmar KM2P-1 as that is the recommended on the Yanmar website*** for the 3YM30 but can't be sure as RCR have taken it away) has four bolts and the old gearbox had 8 bolts leading to a Centaflex-M.

 

Old gearbox:

Gearbox (8 bolts) > Centaflex flange (8 holes; 4 with captive nuts, 4 with holes for bolt passthrough) > Centaflex-M (4 screwholes)

 

New gearbox:

Gearbox (4 bolts) > doesn't line up with the four passthrough holes on the Centaflex flange OR the screwholes on the Centaflex-M

 

RCR are contacting Centa-UK to see if they do an adaptor plate from the four bolts of the new gearbox and the 4 screwholes on the Centaflex-M but Centa-UK haven't been able to get answer yet. 

 

The questions are;

 

- Has anyone out there known of a connector that will work between a Yanmar KM2P-1 (4 bolt) and a Centaflex-M

- If there's not an adaptor does anyone know of an alternative to the Centaflex-M that will work with the Yanmar KM2P-1 gearbox?

 

I've included a picture of the old gearbox setup as well as a close up of the existing centaflex flange front and rear.

 

I'm not very technical in engineering terms so apologies if some of this doesn't make sense.

 

Many thanks in advance

 

Martin

 

TL;DR New yanmar KM2P-1 gearbox doesn't fit into an existing Centaflex-M - RCR are doing a great job but I'm trying to understand the options from you wonderful people!

 

*** https://www.yanmarmarine.com/Products/Light-Duty-Commercial-SOLAS-Engines/3YM30-400/

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

It wasn't much over at all though - from what I understand it was more about the gearbox wearing out - the overfill was minimal so shouldn't have affected it.  We've come a long way in a short time and before that the boat had been pootling up and down the Glos/Sharpness canal.  It was just it's time.

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

So... update time...

 

The gearbox is officially dead ? 

 

We're waiting for a new one from RCR.

 

Thanks for the nice message about the cleanliness of the engine bay - I'm trying to keep it clean but it's getting this time of year with muddy towpaths! The RCR engineer certainly liked the amount of space to work in though ?

 

Martin

 

 

 

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

Yeah - that's what we learnt as well ? 

 

She was named that when we moved onto her and the previous owners said they often had people calling the name out as they passed (they were living in and around London)

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

18 minutes ago, sharpness said:

I'd endorse that recommendation from personal experience, very helpful. 

Glad you're sorted. Is that Jambo that used to be in Victoria basin until recently?

 

Yup - that's us ?

 

We left the mooring last September and we are spending the year cruising around the country having a great time (when the engine isn't freaking us out).

 

Martin

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

Everyone,

 

Thanks so much for the replies! I'm always amazed at how generous everyone is with their time, advice and information!

 

I'm really sorry for a lack of speedy reply but we took the boat back today and after we were sorted we had to move up to a new mooring so I haven't been able to get on the computer.

 

So...

 

We took NB Jambo back to Oxley Marine on the Staffs & Worcs this morning and they have been absolutely amazing.  We were hoping yesterday after they tightened the bolts on the Centaflex (which were very loose) that everything would be sorted but as we moved away to moor on the opposite side of the canal last night (it was getting dark) the problem reappeared and again we weren't getting any forward acceleration (during testing whilst moored up at their yard it had been absolutely fine). 

 

So as we crept over the width of the canal this morning back to their side of the bank we still thought the problem was with the Centaflex but after closer inspection it was discovered the problem was actually with the gear box (at which point my heart sank as you can imagine).  It turns out, despite researching on the net and getting what I thought were the correct answers, I had overfilled the gearbox oil which had led to the forward gears becoming smooth and slippery!  

 

Dave (from Oxley Marine who is an absolute legend!) found on checking the gearbox that not only was it too full but that the oil in there was not a healthy colour at all. After multiple cleanouts with diesel though the colour started to lighten and we started to get some normality to the gearbox. In reality the gearbox is pretty shot but thanks to Dave's ministrations and by mixing the ATF oil with 50ml of diesel we're able to keep on for hopefully a while longer (hopefully long enough to save up for a new gearbox!!).

 

I can't recommend Oxley Marine enough - they're genuine, fantastic people who wanted to help and keep us running and lots of other people who we'd met on the way up the Staffordshire Worcestershire canal had also been saying really positive things about them.

 

All the best and thanks for all your replies

 

Martin

 

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

13 minutes ago, Bee said:

I think that they fit to the shaft by a sort of clamping ring, You shove the shaft in to the coupling then tighten up the bolts and it clamps the shaft really tight. (Others may know better) Chances are that there is now wear in the shaft end and / or the clamping ring / hub bit of the centaflex  A few thou is enough to render the thing useless. I could be wrong. The fix is a new part from Centaflex (just the clamping part) and if you have enough shaft to pull a bit in from outboard cut the scored and damaged bit off the end of the shaft and re fix it all but do the bolts / grubscrews up nice and tight.  That's my guess without looking at it, I'm not too familiar with these. Its not a disaster but if the shaft is ever so nearly but not quite long enough to cut an inch off you may find a few washers or spacers between the gearbox / coupling give you just a bit more length. You may just have to take the shaft out and get it turned down from (e.g.) 1.5 inches to 1.25 and an appropriate hub clamp. Others will know more about these couplings.

Thanks - it's all making a bit more sense now - at least I won't feel completely in the dark when I speak to the engineers tomorrow!

 

Martin

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

Just now, matty40s said:

Yes, if you've been putting major load on the shaft because of continuous mud dredging,  then it could well have damaged the coupling. .....so it may well be the right one, but knackered.

Sounds very probable - the water levels have been very low from Stewpony lock upwards.

3 minutes ago, matty40s said:

Yes, if you've been putting major load on the shaft because of continuous mud dredging,  then it could well have damaged the coupling. .....so it may well be the right one, but knackered.

If it's only the coupling, you can do it in the water, if the prop shaft is badly worn then it's an out of waterfix

Matty

 

Thanks - fingers crossed. Thank-you very much for the information - I really value the responses!

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

Ray

 

Thanks so much for this!! It's come flooding back with that one word.  I remember that the guys at the yard explained that forward acceleration pushes against the centraflex and reverse pulls against it. The bolts were loose and have been tightened but if it's still happening then the rubber in the center may be damaged.

 

We've been through a lot of low water areas in the last few days and I'm wondering if this has contributed to the problem? 

 

Thanks for the info -I'll go and have a read

 

Martin

 

2 minutes ago, matty40s said:

It sounds like the coupling fitted could be the wrong one, we've had a boat in this week with the same symptoms and the prop shaft needed to be replaced along with the correct coupling installed and tightened properly.

The good news is that it's far cheaper fix than the gearbox it protects. 

Matty

 

Thanks for the reply - the boat has been fine for two years+ but I really don't have a clue to be honest.  We'll go back over tomorrow and see what they can find.  Excuse my ignorance but does this require the boat to come out of the water?

 

Thanks

 

Martin

[Help please - need to understand an engine/prop shaft component]

Hi

 

We're cruising up the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal and have hit a problem.  When we go into reverse everything is fine but when we go from reverse into accelerating forward again we don't get any forward motion and no movement in the water to show movement. After some time the propeller seems to kick in and we get forward motion again. Very frustrating as, obviously, we don't have control over direction until it does and it was rather windy cruising today.

 

We've managed to get to a boat yard and they found that the bolts on the section I've highlighted on the picture were loose.  After tightening the bolts the backwards and forwards acceleration seemed to work much better. We turned the engine off to fuel up with Diesel and when we went to leave exactly the same thing happened again - we reversed to get off of the mooring and then had no acceleration going forward.

 

Could someone please explain what the part I've highlighted is so that I can search for more info on it as I'd like to have an idea about what they're talking about before we go back tomorrow.

 

Many thanks advance (I really really appreciate any help!)

 

Martin

 

Info:

- The engine is a Yanmar 3YM30.

- I've checked the oil in the gearbox - seems ok

- I've checked the propeller and there is nothing wrapped around it (couldn't feel my arm for 5 mins after mind!)

- Reverse works fine

- The condition appears to be worse after reversing

- Forward acceleration does start but not for a long time after reversing or starting the engine. 

- Once forward acceleration starts again it's fine. We can go into neutral then forward again without problem

 

 

[Cruising the River Severn in January]

6 hours ago, Onewheeler said:

It's lovely in winter. Needs planning around tides, rain and opening hours. It would be advisable to wear a lifejacket as most of the river is remote from help and the water will be cold. VHF radio is useful as phone reception is patchy.

 

Check pub opening times too!

Cheers!

[Cruising the River Severn in January]

24 minutes ago, sharpness said:

You will need to book all locks & the river is closed on Tuesday & Wed. Have a look on the notices & stoppages here;

 

https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/notice/13858/opening-times-for-the-river-severn-and-gloucester-and-sharpness-canal-2018-2019

 

 

Thanks everyone. Really useful information.

 

Martin

[Cruising the River Severn in January]

1 minute ago, mrsmelly said:

Non whatsoever. Winter crusing is fine if you are prepared for the weather and has many plus points not least of which is there are far less boats about to hold you up anywhere. Long range weather forecast could be your friend a bit nearer the time and dont forget to take wind into consideration as well as tide and flow.

Many thanks! We'll keep our fingers crossed.

 

Martin

[Cruising the River Severn in January]

2 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

It will depend greatly on the weather and is impossible to say at present. I have been on all the major rivers at times in January without any problem and been kept off them by major flooding in August.

Thanks for that. Just got to keep our fingers crossed for a fine January. Apart from flooding and the bore are there any reasons for staying off of the Severn, or other rivers, in January?

[Cruising the River Severn in January]

Hello!

 

Is it possible to navigate the River Severn in January from Gloucester to Stourport?  Obviously flooding and the weather will affect this but, being new, I was wondering if it was generally considered possible at all.  We're on a 39ft narrowboat and we've been up the Severn in May and September so it won't be our first time on the river and ideally we want to get above Lock 8 Holt Lock, Holt Fleet, River Severn Navigation before the 4th of Feb as there is a closure scheduled.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

3 hours ago, Bee said:

Its quite normal for a bit of grease to ooze out, it is in my boat anyway, the advice about the thing being warm and not hot is good by the way, you don't need to over tighten the nuts.

Thanks. Haven't had a chance today so I'll check over the weekend. Martin

1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:

If they are real engineering bricks they will not have soaked up much diesel but it will be trapped under them.

Thanks. The problem is they're pretty jammed in place. Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

1 minute ago, Mad Harold said:

You have my sympathy for the diesel overflow.Had similar with my boat in that when I bought it a previous owner had put a load of broken paving slabs in the engine bay and I couldn't see any reason for this,because when I removed them,the boat was still in trim.They became contaminated with diesel drips and the stink found it's way into the cabin.Cleaning the engine bay with "Gunk" the smell of diesel gradually went,over a week or so.

I think in your case,if your ballast is broken paving slabs,then the smell of diesel may well last for months.because the diesel will be well soaked in.May be best to dump the contaminated ballast,clean up the bilge,and put fresh ballast in. 

We've got engineering bricks but quite a few of them are inaccessible, even after removing the floor boards as they're wedged in place, almost like parts of the boat were built around them!

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

20 minutes ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

Ouch. Within reason you can put the greaser where you like, and where there is something convenient (not the hull!) to bolt it to. Then run a pipe (plastic or copper, according to taste) to the gland. You'll probably need some new olives. 

Cheers. I'll add it to the list ?

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

1 hour ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

No, just warm. And the stuffing box should be warm.

 

PS I noticed in the photo that the greaser doesn't appear to be bolted to anything. Another job for the to-do list ???

Yep! Another job for the list. I was making good headway through the engine bay list of jobs after 6 months of owning the boat but then a Marina, who shall remain nameless for now, when filling up our Diesel decided to ignore the cut off of the pump and continued filling. The pressure blew the fuel guage out of the diesel tank and then proceeded to put around 70 litres of fuel into the engine bay which then, because our boat has gaps designed to allow unwanted water to flow from the front to the engine bay, carried on up the boat all the way to the bathroom. 

 

It's taken me four months to get the engine bay clean but a lot of the ballast under the floor is contaminated so it still stinks of diesel under the bed - despite scraping all of the accessible residue out. Didn't get any help from the marina and they didn't even bother to reply to an email I sent them.

 

Is there a "proper" way to move the stern gland greaser to a more accessible location?

Thanks everyone by the way! Really appreciate all this advice and help! Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

2 hours ago, matty40s said:

Now you are going to scare him!!!

You're right!!! Thanks though Alan, something else to check ?

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

Matty

 

Thanks so much for this!! It's fantastic to get such great advice!

 

(Sorry for the delay in replying - I was on bedtime story duty).

 

Thanks

 

Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

Johnnie,

 

Many thanks - I'll give it a go (when the wind dies down and we stop rocking like we're on a roller coaster ? )

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

Matty

 

Thanks so much for getting back so quickly.

 

I'll have a look on YouTube for videos on replacing the packing (I think I've read that it's something I can do myself whilst the boat is in the water? I'll have to check)

 

Many thanks,

 

Martin

[Stuffing box dripping oil/grease]

Hi

 

First off apologies if this is a simpleton question - I've only had a narrowboat for 12 months and I'm learning every day!

 

Our 39ft narrowboat has started leaking grease into the bilges seemingly from the stuffing box.  It only started doing this two weeks ago but hasn't gone away. It's not much but it's annoying me as it's messy and I try to keep the engine bay as clean as possbile.  I've circled the drip in red on the picture.  We've also started getting water in the bilges after cruising at high revs on the river.  It's not enough to cause problems but again it never used to happen and is annoying.

 

Could this mean that I need to replace the packing or just tighten the bolts?  I replaced the stern gland greaser about six months ago from the grease gun type to the screw type and we always use it after cruising.

 

Any help would be very greatfully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Martin