Keith M
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Posts posted by Keith M
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Do you not use an external buzzer and the relay as the switch?
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Do not forget to delete the old battery history before updating the new Ahr's
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If this is a new craft you should have wiring schematics in the owners manual.
if not ask the boat builder for them.
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Have you fitted the temperature sensor to the battery post?
And are the batteries crossed wired?
Has the combi for the type of battery installed?
Your description sort of indicates a possible battery issue.
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it's a long time since I was involved with propulsion engine servicing such as a 1.8
One of the jobs you have to be careful with is cleaning the heater plug holes, I made a tool for this job.
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Some Schneider breakers are suitable for DC voltages however they cost is 3 or 4 the cost of an AC breaker.
You will not be able to pick them up from any electrical distributor they will require ordering.
Some breakers can only be used with 24 volts DC.
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Check the sensing and supply wires to the external regulator.
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You will need to get the 3 voltages re-set
So that the equalisation mode can be activated
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Having quickly scanned the document I cannot see if it for AC or DC circuits, both of which require total different types breakers
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Depending on the state of charge of the batteries from bulk until
the inverter /charger going into float a minimum of 6 hours however it is normally longer.
Could you not spend 24 hours in a marine with an AC supply?
25 minutes ago, sirweste said:Now, next question.
If the volt settings for bulk, float and absorption have all been set to the same 14.82 V, will the unit still go into float?
A clamp meter indicated that there was only 7 A on the positive cable after several hours of charging on Sunday
The main point of float is the charging voltage reduces to around 13.2 volts.
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Tipping current for a B curve is 3 / 5 time the current rating of the MCB
A C curve MCB tip between 5 / 10 the rating of the MCB.
A D curve MCB tip between 10 / 20 the rating of the MCB.
I have often found Boat Builders using D type MCB's, the cable will melt long before the MCB operates
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I will need the serial number of the combi before I can check to see if this feature is included.
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Not all combi's had this feature
If you would like to send me the serial number of the combi by PM I can check for you.
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Anyone can set them self up as a marine sparks
No qualifications required
A very sad state of affairs
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Typical the Master RCD will be 100 mA or variable.
This would be a standard configaration
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:If you look at the image in post 1 it has 180 amps printed on the case.
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I would not consider the Durite relay as heavy Duty you should be OK to about 100 amps, do not take any notice of the 180 amps on the case
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The Durite item is a split charge relay,
The red item is a Maxi Fuse holder and fuse.
The green item is also a split charge relay which has the cables connected together.
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Some images would help
The item with Durite on it may be a Voltage Sensitive Relay.
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Have tried Calcutt boats?
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Have you also considered using a Maxi Fuse for the lower currents
ANL fuses are supplied as low as 20 amps.
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There is at least one air-cooled Lister engine where the engineers and apprentices train.
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I second Cheshire Cat
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JD Boat Services of Gailey I have always found to helpful.
Question on BMV 712 smart
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Victron BMV712 Smart battery monitor kit complete with shunt & connection kit - c/w low battery alarm contact. 9-90vdc