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Keith M

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Posts posted by Keith M

  1. The Victron has earth switching capability so it should be straightforward, however once complete it is worth checking the wiring is ok (using one of those plug in three LED/neon testers).

    Also if you can borrow an RCD checker, make sure the RCD trips when the land line is connected and also when it is not (they measure the trip time which should be less than 20ms), this will confirm that all the protection is working correctly to start with.

     

    I would suggest

     

    Shore in - RCCB - Isolation transformer - RCD + 2 circuit breakers 1 for the combi and the second for the immersion heater

     

    Combi - RCD plus circuit breakers for various circuits

     

    This should comply with Regional craft Directive and BMEA code of practise for AC electrical installations

     

    A RCCB is a RCD + a circuit breaker in the same unit

  2. Hi gurus,

     

    I want to connect my Mastervolt system together, to make what is almost my dream set up.

    I bought Borah a 2001 Dutch Barge and she already had a Mastervolt (MV) Whispergen 3500 and a MV 60amp battery charger, but no inverter strangely. I have just purchased a MV Mass Inverter 2000 (I would have liked to replace charger with a combi unit but a good deal came along on inverter so...)

    Firstly can I connect them all together, if so what benefits do I get and secondly how the hell do I do that and thridly what would I need to get to do that. I would also like to add a battery display monitor, I do have a Adverc DCM III unit form my old boat I never fitted and have the shunts and bits for that (though no wiring diagram). Would prefer a Mastervolt monitor to keep the system all MV. Does anyone have any suggestions on a unit suitable?

    Other details - 330amp/h domestics, 110amp/h engine start - I will not be running anything massive off the inverter, its just everyday items such as TV, power tools, stereo, iMac etc etc

     

    Any help or advice as ever gurus would be much appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    Ian

     

    Hi Ian,

    I sent you a PM which I hope that will help

     

    keith

  3. We have a Mastervolt Mass Combi (Sine Wave Inverter/Charger with Generator/Mains Support) with the basic indicator panel - sorry, don't know which model as I am at home with only the generic manual to refer to - and a Dometic 230 V Travel Power Unit.

     

    Normally, when we are going along, on the panel the inverter light goes out and the charger light comes on, indicating that the inverter is operating in charger mode and doing it's 3 phase charging thing. This weekend, I noticed that when going along the inverter light stayed on, which would indicate that the inverter is not going over to charger mode. The batteries still charged, but I would imagine that it's better to 3 point charge via the charger than not?

     

    All the lights are green, everything looks good to go and we haven't fiddled with anything. These seem quite clever bits of kit, so if anything was wrong I would expect to see some kind of indication in the form of a red light or a buzzer. If you stick your head in the cupboard and look at the actual unit itself, the AC light on the inverter seems to flicker. It seems to me that either the Travel Power is not producing electricity, or it is and that the Inverter somehow isn't registering this. This has happened a couple of times before, but seems to sort itself out.

     

    Mr Hum is completely befuddled with the whole thing, and suggested that perhaps the batteries didn't need charging enough to warrant the charger kicking in, but that doesn't seem like a very plausible explanation to me, particularly as we'd been moored up overnight with the fridge, lights, etc, on.

     

    I've had a read through both manuals but can't see anything that would explain it. Can anyone offer any advice, or point me at where I should be looking?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Mrs Hum

  4. Thanks for your help Keith - I'll keep this in the open forum if that's Ok so others can benefit.

     

    As I read the the instructions there seems to be the ability to vary the charger ouput using the Masterlink remote controller but that this is enabled up using the dip switches in the Mass Combi itself.

     

    I'm guessing then that if I can succesfully vary the output using the master link controller then the dip switch is correctly set and this feature is enabled, if not I'll need to enable 'power sharing' using the dip switches.

     

    alternatively I see that the output can be varied with a combination of dip switch settings - presumably this is for when a remote Master link controller is not installed????

     

    It is quite common for installers not to read the installation manuals so therefore the The combi is very rarely set up correctly.

    If you have an MICC remote control fitted it is very to set up the power sharing if not you will have to use the dip switches

    If any of the manuals are missing there can be down loaded from the Mastervolt web site.

    I hope this is helpful.

  5. ABout the key, I think that they might be generic keys, I am sure that it has been mentioned on the forum before. Alternatively phone a swindlers to see what they say.

     

    About the hour counter, keep a log on a bit of paper for now. You could replace it with a digital hour counter from ebay such as this. clicky

     

    You Could try contacting Engines Plus for a replacement key

  6. I think you could be right - just trawled through the in depth manual which makes reference to setting the charge level via. the remote controller....it seems it can be reduced... will try next time we are aboard.

     

    Many thanks...

     

    For the Mass Combi 12 / 4000 / 200 to function correctly the input current required needs to be around 17 amps

    Inside the unit are two rows of dip switches you can limit the input current via these dip switches

    Please PM if you need any further help.

  7. Hi

    I have been involed with installing AC and DC system in all types of craft for more than 20 years.

    You get what you pay for, take a look at Mastervolts BTM 3.

     

    quote name='Moisha' date='Jan 29 2007, 03:45 PM' post='103886']

    Hello all--now that we are edging our way toward electrics--the stove is in!!!!---all sorts of electrical queries will be flying your way. We were told that as we will be living mainly off batteries and with little access to on-shore mains electricity, we must invest in a battery monitor/shunt. The prices quoted have been exorbitant and I was wondering if any of you had suggestions for reliable yet not scrape-the-crumbs-out-of-the-wholes-in-your-pocket monitors. I came across these on line: http://www.yachtbits.com/nasa/nasa_clipper...itor_system.php, but was told that they are not accurate enough by a salesman for VoltMaster. Is that true? Because 80 quid seems ok, but 300--not! Any shops/websites for these things that you would recommend?

     

    Thanks again--don't know what we would be doing without you, Fine People.

    Mosha.

  8. Hi what was the voltage of the batteries before you stated the engine

    Gel batteries have a very slow discharge rate

    hi folks

    just a couple of questions for the technical minded amongst us, or even any one who may know the answer.

    My boats not had its engine run for nearly 6 months and as such the domestic batteries have slowly lost whatever charge was in them over that time, they are 2 200 amp gells from mastervolt and are abouht 2 years old, over the weekend i went on the boat to do some jobs and took a fully charged start battery with me and she started first time.

    i ran the engine at around 1100 to 1200 revs and initially took no notice of the digital amp indicator which shows the rate of input, after abouht an hour i noticed it hovering between 19 and 20 amps going in which for a set of batteries that i thought were prety flat didnt seem a lot, in response to this i bumped the revs up to 1400 and over, and the indicator stood firm at 20 amps, no fluctuating just 20 amps dead.

    now previous experience has shown me that the alternator or the seperate controller ( whichever is responsible) usally kicks of at somewhere between 40 and 44 amps input for a while and then the charge rate drops of over a few hours finally indicating a full charge at a 3 amp input.

    So the question is does the low start input amperage indicate something possibly wrong with the charging system considering the domestic batts must have been well flat ,and why so early on in the charge cycle would the display show a fixed 20 amp input with ever increasing rev speeds, furthermore what harm if any has been done to the 2, 200 amp gells by letting the previous full charge dissapate over time

    Thanks

    Bendyboat

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