Motters79

I see what your saying. In that case, if you did have a 'gas tight' silencer, wouldn't this be subject to the same potential problem?

You're probably answered the question there. Maybe this type should be installed with the hole facing down so gravity will do its thing. However if it is lagged and used inside I wouldn't have thought there'd be much in the way of condensation forming inside and any that does would surely evaporate and exit which the gases once its up to temperature. Its obviously designed to be used in well ventilated settings as in a car engine bay. I'm tempted to seal the hole with fire gum and lagging as I mentioned earlier. I will just need some extra pipe as the pipe supplied is a bit short for my install. I'm assuming all the boaters who have this silencer type have had no BSS issues relating to it? Johnny?

Ha ha yeah I know what you mean. I was wondering the same and now I have it in front of me it has become apparent. Looking at the silencer I've received it has a small diamond shaped hole on the seam where the 2 halves are spot welded. If you block one end of the silencer and blow in the other you can hear gas escaping from this hole. I'm assuming that fumes will be ejected from this hole into the engine bay or wherever it is installed. Have you got this type installed Johny? If so, see if you can smell any fumes near the silencer when running. Did you lag the silencer as well when fitting? I imagine a bit of fire gum and a few wraps of insulation should seal it easily enough. Makes me wonder why it is designed this way though.

I answered my own question by messaging the seller mp & h. The one supplied (small flat rectangular) is NOT gas tight. A bit concerning as I have seen several installed on boats in photos.

Well my remanufactured Termotop C arrived today and I must say I'm impressed with the general look of the unit and all the bits that come in the 'kit'. The exhaust silencer is of the flat rectangular variety. Is this one of the non gas tight ones does anyone know? I've seen photos of this type of silencer in a few boat installs so hopefully for those that have one it is. I only ask because if you search for 'gas tight webasto silencer' or 'webasto marine silencer' you only seem to see the cylindrical type. I'm a bit confused. Cab anyone give a definitive answer as to which is the correct one?

Ok Johnny (&anyone else). A couple of questions: 1) the fuel tank connection: you drill a hole and tap it ready for the 5mmx1/4" fitting, then you pass the copper fuel pipe through in to the tank with a 90 deg bend so that the end of the pipe is 6inches say from the tank bottom, then pass the 5mmx1/4" fitting over the pipe and screw into the tank with the True Blue stuff, followed by an olive and the compression nut. That correct? The bend in the pipe passes through the 1/4" hole ok? You are then left with a length of copper pipe sticking out of the tank wall at 90 deg. How did you then connect this with the next section of pipe to the filter? 2) the exhaust. Is the exhaust and silencer supplied from mp n h not suitable? You appear to have bought another (cylindrical one) and more pipe. What was going here? Someone mentioned a gas tight and a non gas tight exhaust. Surely they're all gas tight or you'd have your boat filled with fumes? The tank connection worries me the most! I wanna get that right 1st time.

Thanks Johnny London! I really appreciate you taking the time to list all these items for me. I'm a little unsure as to what the Auto Air Vent bottle is. Could you clarify? I've found an expansion tank on eBay that comes with a pressure gauge and what looks like a filing loop but it doesn't say that's what it is. Its also very expensive compared with the one you mention. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F221963357440 As you found out, everything becomes clearer once you have the unit and can begin to properly plan where everything will go etc. How have you found to be noise/vibration wise? Did you mount on the bulkhead? With jus the noggins or on a board aswell? Also how reliable has you unit been? Did you get it set up at all or just been using it straight as it came? Thanks Johnny! I've just spent an hour reading through your thread! Certainly was epic, but you were asking all the questions that would probably ask so it is very informative. I think I understand what needs to be done. The bulkhead fittings do sound a good idea but my Calorifier is in the engine room above the floor so I'd have to run the the pipes back through the bulkhead. Not impossible. Like you, I've gone for a reconditioned unit from MP & H on EBay, (am I right about that? I know MrSmelly did) which doesn't have all the right bits, so I'll need to get all that. Can you remember where you got your fuel pipe and which rubber hose you used to connect from the heater to the 22mm spine tails? Also which rubber noggins did you use for mounting the heater? No doubt I'll have more questions for you (and anyone else who's in the know, NMEA etc) Thanks mate. Oh, I'd love to see some pics of your install!

Thanks Johnny! I've just spent an hour reading through your thread! Certainly was epic, but you were asking all the questions that would probably ask so it is very informative. I think I understand what needs to be done. The bulkhead fittings do sound a good idea but my Calorifier is in the engine room above the floor so I'd have to run the the pipes back through the bulkhead. Not impossible. Like you, I've gone for a reconditioned unit from MP & H on EBay, (am I right about that? I know MrSmelly did) which doesn't have all the right bits, so I'll need to get all that. Can you remember where you got your fuel pipe and which rubber hose you used to connect from the heater to the 22mm spine tails? Also which rubber noggins did you use for mounting the heater? No doubt I'll have more questions for you (and anyone else who's in the know, NMEA etc) Thanks mate. Oh, I'd love to see some pics of your install!

Dont you also need an expansion vessel with a gas filled bladder if you go pressurised? I agree though it looks pretty simple and is probably way easier to bleed the air out of the system. I'm gonna have a look for your thread. Do you remember the title?

I get what your saying! I was told (cant remember by who) it was more to do with the extra pressure you get when the is a head of fuel above your tapping point. In my case it would be a 3rd of a tank above the tapping point if the tank were full. I'm guessing that on the other side of my pre-existing tapping point there is a pipe going down towards the bottom of the tank. Must be otherwise the Bubble stove would conked out once The tank was 2 3rds full.

Did you fit it yourself? It also doesn't come with a fuel standpipe. I'm not sure if I need one or if I can use the fuel outlet that used to feed the bubble stove I removed when I bought the boat. It's a third the way down the tank and Has a bigger bore pipe. I could no doubt get an adapter to take the 2mm ID pipe that webasto use, but I don't know if it being lower down the tank would cause extra fuel pressure that might flood the webasto. Has anyobe on here fitted a standpipe? The webasto instructions tell you to go in through the top of the tank but i cant as the top of the tank is outside. I need to go in through the side of the tank where it meets the deck plate of the stern.

Does anyone know where all these recon units come from. Seems odd that there are so many.

I have to admit I'm very tempted. Its a 5kw admittedly which goes against the advice somewhat, but for the price, if it works (feedback and comments on here indicate it will be fine) then its. Considerable saving. Providing I switch it of when up to temp and don't allow cycling then it should do the job. I'll also go for 4 double rads to make sure it has something to do. Anyone else bought recon unit? Any tales to tell good or bad?

Thanks everyone or your comments, it seem there is a definate consensus on going for the 4KW. I will also make sure I go for double rads as per peoples comments. There also seems to be a general preference for Webasto as per the other 2 I mentioned. That's good as its the cheaper option ?

Hey peeps! I'm gonna get either Webasto or Eberspacher but cannot decide whether I need 4 or 5 KW. I have a 55ft boat and intend to run 3 or 4 rads and heat the Calorifier, though I may only actually heat the Calorifier in summer and the rads in winter (plan to have rads and Calorifier plumbed in parallel so can isolate either) In the summer my batteries are charged by solar so no need to run engine. In the winter, not so much power from panels so while running engine to charge, may as well heat Calorifier with that. Only really want the rads for first thing in the morning and when coming back to boat late at night in the winter (I have a wood stove). I've been advised by someone that its better to have a 4kw working hard than a 5kw that is working less hard. Its better for for the health of the unit apparently. What does experience say is the best option to go for? Thanks

Hey guys, sorry I went quiet. I've tried switching on various appliances when the light/alarm is is happening and it makes no difference. I've also tried covering the panels whilst the problem is occurring which also makes no difference. What i didn't mention in the original post is that it doesn't happen in the evening or mornings when the system voltage is lower, so there is definitely a link between the system voltage pre-engine start and the occurrence of the problem. My understanding of electrics is limited. Does this shed any light on the subject?

Sorry nicknorman. You're right. It doesn't happen always, I'd say it is occurring when I'm cruising mid day and the batteries are already pretty full from solar charging. I will try to confirm this. The alternated is certainly able to charge. Maybe it is just 'a feature ' like you said.

Hello everyone! Since I installed my solar panels several months ago (they work great) every time I run my engine my domestic battery light flickers and the alarm sounds very weekly. The belt isnt slipping however and it seems to charge OK. I get 14+ volts. Any ideas what's happening? It seems to be related to there being 2 power sources active at once. Any knowledgeable advice would be appreciated. I have a Beta Marine 43 with a 95 amp domestic alternator and 500w of solar coming through a 40amp Tracer BN charge controller. Thanks

Thanks for all the constructive comments! As suspected the disadvantages seem to outway the perceived benefits. To be honest it never crossed my mind till a fellow boater suggested it. Unfortunately he's not around to question further. I think I won't be doing it. I've just bought the batteries and I want them to last a few years. The solar panels are working a treat, so much so that I no longer need to run the engine daily for power thus I've been feeling a bit sore about running it just for hot water, but its my only source, other than boiling a kettle on the hob or lighting the stove (and cooking myself) which I have been doing as my wood is plentiful and free. I'm thinking seriously about fitting an Eberspatcher for hot water and putting some rads in too. I was rubbing my hands together at the prospect of free hot water from my panels but I have to be realistic and maybe its a leap too far! Cheers guys

I think you make a good case for trying it but I recognise the risk of leaving it on is a big one, especially with my brain ? however, my element has a stamdard plug on the end and so I could easily use a timer between it and the inverter so it would automatically turn element off after given period.

Hey Canal Peeps I've just installed 500w of solar panels on my boat with a 40 amp mttp controller. I have 3 110ah domestic batteries and a 1500w inverter. Can I run my 1kw immersion heater from this setup during peak solar power generation hours for say an hour without taking my batteries too low? A fellow boater insists he does with no problems. He does have 5 batteries though but on 150w of solar panel. I have powered it from the inverter for about 15 mins and it certainly drew some current and got hot though the battery voltage dropped to about 12.4 in that time. The charge controller was putting in 28 amps which is the most I've seen going in but we'll within its capacity, but is it enough to put back I not the batteries with out discharging them too deeply? My electrical know how is very limited as you can probably tell! Any knowledgeableadvice would be welcome. Cheers Matt

Hi everyone, been looking at this 300w solar panel kit on ebay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222770435750 Seems good value. Can anyone experienced give me an idea of they are decent? I've been on my boat for 4 months now and have just had to replace my 3 leisure batteries. I'm a Continuous Cruiser and currently only have my engine to charge batteries and so don't want to knacker my new ones. I need solar panels quick to help increase my charging capacity but I'm wary of buying duff cheap ones on ebay. FYI I have 3 110ah leisure batteries and a dedicated 95amp alternater on my Beta 43. There is a seperate one for starter battery.

Thanks for your suggestions. I've tried all recommended surveyors but none are available for the date I need. However I have found one called Chris Makin who is available and from speaking to him and checking out his website he seemed pretty decent and not too pricey. Found a couple of positive mentions in some threads on here aswell. Anyone else ever used him?

Hi guys! So I've put a deposit on beautiful 55 footer! Could anyone recommend a good surveyor in the Tamworth area to do my survey? Thanks

That's very encouraging. Thanks John. Mines had the paintwork done in the last few years so it's very tidy. Its also unusual in that it's a trad stern but the roof hatch is the full width of the boat, so it effectively becomes semi trad. Nice!