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Posts posted by 13-10
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9 minutes ago, ronnietucker said:
Good shout. I used AbeBooks for my Nicholson Guide for the Foth & Clyde. Amazon said £100+ (I kid you not!) and I got it from AbeBooks for £5.
Do you mean this one
https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=22536886491&nomobile=true&nomobile=true
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Cheers Ronnie, I'm all for saving a few quid
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Cheers Robbo,
I'll have to start saving my pocket money for that one
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Happy New Year all
Could folks recommend decent books for basic boat engine and electric maintenance/fault finding
Thanks
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Thanks for that
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3 hours ago, Sea Dog said:
Too far open and the hot water returns to the boiler too quickly and causes cycling of the heater;
Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question but whats 'cycling' in this context
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Might be worth putting a piece of vermiculite fire board behind it. A piece that size should only cost about a tenner
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On the subject of diesel bug treatment. Can folks recommend good additives.
Also do I need to use a marine specific one or can I also use automotive treatments
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Brev (Italy) make safety harnesses mainly for marine use
I've come across guys using them on safety/workboats and they can hold a hell of a weight so like you said would imagine they wouldn't be cheap
Careful if you google harness as there are some interesting options !!!!!!!!!
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On our stove at home we use a scourer and water when the stove is cold, I did manage it with the stove on just left the door open for about 15 minutes
If you're using dry wood you shouldn't have to clean it very often
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11 hours ago, matty40s said:
The bumph they sold it on to start of with is incorrect. They sold it on reducing dock times and you can put it on when wet.
It was only later when disgruntled customers went direct to Fertans manufacturers for more information that it was discovered that much longer times are required if using Fertan than originally specified, and also that curing time before going back in the water was also extended.
Therefore not reducing dock times.
The website quotes 24 hours for the Fertan to work and allow 48hrs for the Keelblack to cure. It says allow 4-5 days dock time, is that about right or are they still being optimistic
I'm going to book a dry dock for a week so think I'll have enough time for either that or traditional blacking
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2 minutes ago, dmr said:
But as you know, they always say good things in the adverts.
But I did see a sign outside a pub once saying something like bad beer crap food, unfriendly staff
.............Dave
Very true. Just need to decide which bulls##t to opt for
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Thanks Tony will follow the advice from yourself and others on here. Have to say if the bumf about Keelblack is correct I'm tempted to use it
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Tony-from what the bloke at the marina said its this stuff
http://www.marinechandlery.com/international-intertuf-5lt
Thanks for the advice Dr Bob I'm thinking maybe April time to do it (I'm north of the border so 15C at any time of the year is a struggle )
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26 minutes ago, rusty69 said:
Worth trying to determine what is already on there before putting something else on top
I phoned the marina that did it a couple of years ago for the bloke I bought it from.
They say they use 'Intertuf', would I be best to use that make again
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4 minutes ago, rusty69 said:
Don't scrimp on preparation or refloat too soon.
Cheers Rusty,
Was thinking of using Red Oxide on any bare metal before blacking
How long after the final blacking coat should it be left before refloating
4 minutes ago, WotEver said:And the rudder bottom cup
Is that where the bottom of the rudder sits in the bracket, if so am I looking for excessive play
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Planning to make my first attempt at blacking the hull in the New Year.
Looking for recommendations for which are the best blacking bitumen/paints available
Also any useful do's or don'ts for a first timer
Book Recommendations
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I shall keep looking