Pierre Thomas
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Posts posted by Pierre Thomas
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2 hours ago, Phil Ambrose said:
Try Googling Stalham Gas Services, they supply mail order, I've used them for the last 20 years and they've never let me down .
Phil
I will ask them on Monday. If there is such a thing they seem like they would be likely to know where to get it. Thank you.
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If someone would be kind enough to point me straight at one I'd be very grateful because I'm looking in all those places and not finding one.
I can find plastic ones with barbs on but I'm really wanting one to fit the pipe, brass with compression ends.
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Does anyone have any idea where I can find a 3/16” compression fuel shut-off valve for the fuel tank of a Taylor’s heater? Google is off no help.
Thank you very much for your help.
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18 hours ago, RLWP said:
Do the exhaust stubs for those cylinders get hot?
Once run until the water temperature 45 deg. the exhaust manifold, close to the cylinder are 50, 88, 66, 52 (1-4), when first started number 2 rose quicker than the others, my first reading 25, 70, 43, 25 - water temperature too low for reading.
Your suggestion of water pump will be my first thing to investigate
And now I have to leave it to celebrate the new year with my family. Thank you for your suggestions and happy new year to you all.
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No, it's not in a narrow boat, the engine is below the cockpit sole in a yacht.
I assume that somehow, it was put there before the cockpit was built. I see no other way of installing it.
I agree with you that an access panel would be a good idea, the difficulty is to make that watertight so that water entering the cockpit can't fall through into the boat.
But this may be easier to do than to remove the cylinder heads. If I did that I would be very tempted to replace the engine. It is an inappropriate engine for an 11 metre yacht.
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I suppose I associate the overheating and the water in the oil but it is true the water pump is easier and as I have to drain the cooling for both I could go to the cylinder head after the water pump. As far as I know there’s only one other possibility and that’s a crack between a water chamber and an oil way so I approach them in the easiest first.
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My 4LW.
The next problem with the engine is water in the oil. It overheated the last time it was used properly and now the oil level has increased and the texture indicates water. It is definitely not diesel
The best scenario is head gasket failure, switching off fuel to 3 or 4 makes very little difference to available power
The engine is in a confined space with very little room above. It is possible I might have to cut a hole in the deck above.
Does anyone know how much space I need to lift the head to remove it from the studs?
i don’t have a manual so I may have many more questions
Once again thank you for your help.
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Success. Second pair of hands, screwdriver in the flywheel teeth.
Thank you all.
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Yes, this is absolutely the right tool and given the excuse I should buy one, removing three nuts is unfortunately not that excuse. Two are removed with a long piece of tube, the third will remove once I lock the engine.
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Ok, I’ll try that tomorrow. Thank you. It’s taken most of the afternoon to remove two by but the third is difficult. There’s an expression I believe. Bloody tight.
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Thank you. Am I not in danger of breaking the teeth? I have tried with a piece of copper but that is not strong enough.
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I’ve got to remove the drive plate on my Gardner 4LW. I have access and the right socket. How do I stop the engine turning while I apply a lot of force?
Many thanks, Pierre
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11 hours ago, babylek said:
Has anyone on the French canals had any problems with the economic migrants that have flooded Europe?
We are overrun with the English who are, to generalise, rude and arrogant. I do not find this much of a problem, so the answer to your question is no.
Tant pis, they will all be gone soon and we can go back to our peaceful existence. As seen in the books of Goscinny and Uderzo.
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yes, I see. So the door is proud of its opening
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4 hours ago, bastion said:
Chasmood track. Top section has deeper recess so lift the door up and pull out from bottom then remove. If two doors are side by side they could be sliding
Whereas this seems like a lot of work if the door cannot slide, I can see the application of two strips of brass, or even wood but brass would look nice, so that the same thing happens, lift up to release at the bottom.
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42 minutes ago, jddevel said:
In my sailaway I have used soft close draw runners (www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-ball-bearing-drawer-runners-250mm/7855j) on my electric cupboard doors, my calorifier door all my wardrobe doors and even made a cupboard hung on them which is at 90 degrees to a wardrobe door in the bedroom wall separating the bathroom from the bedroom which slides in to the passage to allow access to one of the wardrobes. Allows a great deal of flexibility in accessing all the storage space. Galley doors are normal soft close type.
How do you use these to operate a door?
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I am not sure I understand. I am also not sure I want to waste seconds of my life puzzling about it but one thing springs into my mind.
What person fills in holes in earth with a pétrole based foam?
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it is April 1st today?
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thank you everyone
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10 hours ago, sharpness said:
I just screwed 2 (proper) brass screws in the bottom edge of the door then sawed the heads off leaving 1/4" sticking out & drilled two holes in the bottom of the door frame to take those "pegs" . A smart turn button on the top finished the job off. Works well in the passage way on the cassette door where a sideways door would get in the way.
Steve
I like this. The idea of pegs to locate with a nice but inexpensive turnbuckle at the top. I was also thinking of the type of catch that drop side trailers use but was struggling to see how to mount them in the frame
10 hours ago, F DRAYKE said:it was these I replace. They damage if the door isn't offered just right.
12 hours ago, system 4-50 said:Fit lifting hinges - the ones where the door rises as it opens to make it self-closing - to both sides of the door. Then it can be lifted off, not using the turn action of the hinge at all.
my original thought, but my doors are inset so the lift could only be 10mm max.
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Sorry. Because they fall off when the boat leans. There is not room for the door to open with hinges.maybe i mean lift out.
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On 16/10/2017 at 20:38, OllyO said:
what do people do who have 5" flues?
I also have a 125mm inox flue inside the boat. At the moment there is a piece of 110mm tube welded to the roof but it is not going to last for ever and I want a collar like those for narrow boats. Midland Chandlers say that their small collar is 5" Ø on the inside but I am uncertain whether it will fit inside my flue pipe.
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Thank you but I already have the doors. It is a matter of stopping them falling out. The catches I have say 6kg, i have used four it seems like a very light 24kg.
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Hello. I am making some cupboards with doors that lift off. There is no room for hinged doors.
What ideas are there for keeping the door in place?
I have tried the magnetic catches they call heavy duty on ebay but they are not heavy duty.I am looking for new idea. thank you.
3/16” fuel shut off valve
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Perfect. Thank you Mike and everyone else.