Pierre Thomas
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Posts posted by Pierre Thomas
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12 minutes ago, cheesegas said:
Their site isn't very good, you need to go into the Products page, select a pump and then click Downloads to get the spec sheet. Looks like it's around 7-10 amps depending on backpressure.
https://daviescraig.com.au/media/694/1427092566.EWPSelectionGuideTechSpecs2009.pdf
I'm quite liking the EWP150 with the controller. 10A is not too much for the engine alternator and the mounting would fit nicely with the existing plumbing.
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2 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
158 Lpm is hell of a flow rate, that is what you get from a mains submersible pump.
It's down as 107 lpm on the Johnson spec for the F7B-8, my existing one is 30lpm but does no more than trickle even though all the pipes are 1" bore.
But as Cheesegas says, pressure make a difference
6 minutes ago, cheesegas said:The litres per minute assumes that there's no restriction on the output - depending on the pump, the flow will drop in different proportion to the pressure. Davies Craig publish theirs, can you compare it against your current pump? https://daviescraig.com.au/electric-water-pumps near the bottom.
I've got a feeling the flow rate of the existing intercooler pump isn't much under pressure.
It's very irritating, nowhere does it mention current or 12V power needed.
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10 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Something like this? https://pumpexpress.co.uk/shop/marco-up1n-12v/
Is only a small improvement on what I've got which is inadequate at 30plm, The one indicated in an earlier post is 158 lpm or a factor more.
I can see alternator capacity being an issue with an electric pump.The other factor is that no matter how fast the engine goes (or how hard it is working) an electric pump is constant.
It's an intercooler pump I'm using at the moment. I shall look through the Craig-Davies pumps. -
3 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Would an electric pump be easier?
I’m struggling to find a 12V electric pump that will shift the same amount of water.
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The ‘ideal’ would be a foot mounted side port pump but they don’t seem to exist. The F7B Johnson or equivalent jabsco are both straight through in foot mounted versions.
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What’s a land?
35 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:I agree but would he get enough wrap on the new pump pulley? Just a thought. I think this may be the easiest way of doing it. Otherwise as even a large Jabsco pump takes a comparatively modest load I think those three allen screws could be used to drive an extra crankshaft pulley without issue. It would need a land to centralise it on the existing pulley I suspect. seeing the size of the crankshaft pulley on the 1.5s with a Jabsco pump (very small) I don't think here would be much load at all
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so. I’m trying to find a way to make a pump like Alan’s or the jabasco equivalent work but not getting very far. I thought there would be a PTO underneath the cover on the left but there’s not, or anywhere else I can find so my alternatives now are the skin tank(s) - probably around £1,500 - £2,000 with the docking or something off off one of these pulleys. Opinions please. It seems to me that putting a pulley on the water pump shaft risks causing side loading and wear but a third crankshaft pulley could also cause issues. What do you think?
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Just as a curiosity, why do boats never use radiator and fan cooling?
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2 hours ago, Loddon said:
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Staying with HE cooling you could ditch the electric pump and fit a belt driven pump at the front of the engine similar to the one AdE has or you may be lucky and find there is a PTO on the engine designed for an external water pump.
That would be my favourite but it’s complicated 🙂 it’s a yanmar tn88 and although it has a PTO I can’t find a pump coupling to fit. I thought about a belt drive on the engine alternator and water pump but I’m worried about losing wrap. Lancing Marine suggested fitting the pump through a bracket on the face of existing pulley but a mounting bracket would be a bit tricky.
I’ll post a diagram of the extra pulley arrangement tomorrow because I’d welcome an opinion on that.
thanks to everyone so far.
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14 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
My engine is a tad bigger but my water pump is around 2.6 litres PER SECOND. (158 litres/min (2100 gal/hr).
You are never going to get proper cooling with 3 litres PER MINUTE
Did I say I say 3 ? It’s actually 30 ( though really it’s nearer 3 ) but I take your point.
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10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
My engine is a tad bigger but my water pump is around 2.6 litres PER SECOND. (158 litres/min (2100 gal/hr).
You are never going to get proper cooling with 3 litres PER MINUTE
What pump is it?
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It’s currently a water intake to a heat exchanger and a separate circuit for the engine. With an electric Johnson intercooler pump. It’s barely adequate at canal cruising revs when the intake is clear.
im also considering external tubing but i’d prefer no holes in the hull if possible
19 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:The manufacturers recommendation
Is in my post and, like the rest of the manual does not inspire confidence.
it’s a yanmar tn88 marinised by Barrus
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The manual for my engine says I need a skin tank area of 1.25msq for 50hp it also says “the engine is unlikely to work hard on the canal” which seems like they’re saying this figure is too small.
I presume that I can’t have too much cooling. My question is does it make a difference if the skin tank is inside or outside the hull? I guess yes but how much?
And what would be a good size to allow for river work for 50 hp?
or am I better off sticking with a heat exchanger - it’s struggling at the moment with an electic pump? A Johnson 3itres per minute (yeah, ha ha)
My choices seem to be add an engine driven larger jabasco pump or rework the cooling system with a skin tank.
There’s no straightforward way of adding a raw water pump so this solution is likely to involve some expensive engineering.
Advice please?
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Hello.
I can't find a version of the Barrus Shire 50 manual / wiring diagram that fits my engine. The one available on the net in several different versions doesn't match mine.
It has no heater plugs which seems to be the main difference and the control panel has no lights.
My problem which the wiring diagram might shed some light on is the stop solenoid stopped working, as in it wouldn't pull in to allow the engine to start.
So I removed it to get me home. I tried wiring it up with the starter disconnected this afternoon and it worked once, the second time blew first its own fuse 15A and next time it worked once and then 2nd time with a 30A fuse it blew the starter solenoid 25A fuse which it is in series with.
The wiring that I have has no relay for the stop solenoid but looks like its been modified. it has a wire going from the starter solenoid through an inline fuse to the pull in coil on the stop solenoid.
My next step will be to replace this circuit with a relay energised by the starter solenoid trigger which I believe is the standard way of fitting a dual coil solenoid but I would like sight of the right wiring diagram for my engine.
thanks for anyones help -
Hello.
Does anyone know because they have done it whether the Candy 1042D will run on a Honda EU20i.
I actually have the newer EU22i which is 1800 watts rather than 1600 but I’m guessing it’s more likely someone will have the older model.
Thank you.
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True.
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On 07/05/2019 at 19:07, Tony Brooks said:
I did a quick calculation for maximum hull speed in open water and came up with 8 or 9 knots but that is in open water. I used 1,25 as the hull constant but yours may be more or less even if anyone actually knows what it is.
I had to guess the water line length so if your boat has a clipper type stern with a large overhang or teh bows extend well beyond the waterline my speeds will be optimistic, you could be back in the 6 or 7 knots area.
What you seem to be saying is either the engine will not rev up and if so that is an indication of being over propped or the engine revs up but the boat will not speed up. Actually I expect the stern squats in the water. This indicates that you are trying to go too fast for the depth of water and waterway bed profile. In the UK on canals we can hit that limit with a narrowboat at about 2.5 mph on some canals. A further indication of over driving the boat is excess wash and possibly heavy/juddering steering.
That’s interesting Tony, I have yet to cause the slightest wash but increase in engine speed doesn’t give the increase I’d expect. What sort of horsepower would you expect for between 5-7 knots ? We’re quite bluff, though a bit more overhang than a tjalk at the bows, though the stern is quite similar.
On 07/05/2019 at 13:25, peterboat said:No problems I have converted my boat to electric, which for me works very well
It is a very attractive offer and good price but I think I’ll do some more research and work this through with more brain than wallet so I’ll pass this time. After the 2nd alternator is taken in to account there’s less horsepower than I’ve got in theory at the moment.
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21 hours ago, Sea Dog said:
Pierre, are you familiar with the shallow water effect? This could be why your boat gets up to a certain speed pretty well but more power and revs make little difference to speed and in fact may cause it to become slower. How is it in deeper water?
My impression is that it’s not this, there’s enough water and I’m not talking about waterskiing. It’s at much slower speeds. However the next stage of the plan is to improve the cooling and then do some ‘sea trials’ on the river.
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19 hours ago, Bee said:
If the biggest propeller you can fit is around 18" and the Hanomag handles it happily and you are happy with the boats speed and performance then you do not need more power than the Hanomag. In fact its likely that the Hanomag has not been able to produce 55 hp for quite a long time. As an example the marinised 2 litre Kubota engine that Nanni and Beta sell is reckoned to be 43 HP and Beta recommend an 18" prop for that, 18 x 12 I think but I might be wrong. There's a lot of barges with old 100 hp Daf engines in them but they are wasting a lot of that power and fuel on spinning a small prop. Personally I would reckon a 2 litre diesel with suitable prop is the minimum for an 18m barge. I would look at Nanni and Beta websites to get more ideas and then search on the various e bay type sites and see what comes up. You might find the Dutch Barge Association website helpful to ask for advice on. Good luck.
The boat is a bit sluggish. It’s my impression that most of the push happens at low revolutions and then nothing much else happens when you try to increase speed. I have yet to see the propellor, the survey says 530mm steel, the draft is quite low at 800mm so I would be surprised if there was room for more. The eclusiers all allow an extra 50% time between locks for barges over hire boats so maybe I’m expecting too much.
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16 hours ago, peterboat said:
I ha
I have a 50 hp Barrus shire including Gearbox [2 to 1] exhaust and control panel for sale, its a twin alternator model and has done just over 1000 hours, it was serviced before removal and ran very well. It was in a 57 x 12 foot widebeam which it moved very easily, its for sale for £2500 but you would have to collect and fit it yourself. It was an instant starter and smoke free, if you fancy it PM me for more details or a chat about it
Interesting. This sounds about right. I’ll get in touch. It may have to be on Thursday because it’s holiday tomorrow and we’ll be a bit busy. Thank you.
1 hour ago, Mike the Boilerman said:I'm surprised Peterboat isn't recommending you get a big solar panel and the motor from an ecofan!!
We looked into converting her into a hovercraft to cope with some of the shallower bits.
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A barge 3.8m wide used on the quieter French canals.
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5 hours ago, Tasemu said:
I see people mooring on mead lane and around saltfard, do you have any idea how they might be emptying their cassettes?
There’s an emptying point just below the lock run by Bristol Water
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I’m looking to replace an old 1950s Hanomag 55hp truck engine.
Budget ex-fitting is around £5-10,000.
It’s for a barge, 18m long. The propellor is around 18” and although I think it will be replaced to match the new engine it can’t be much bigger.
The barge the is used on canals and the occasional river
What would people recommend? Both any ideas on specific engines but maybe in terms of horsepower to achieve moderate cruising speeds quietly with good fuel economy.
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Bradford Wharf Services at Bradford-on-Avon
Towing the boat
in New to Boating?
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Whereas valid insurance is a condition of licensing your boat on CRT waters, it’s not a requirement of navigation.