JCheetham

aha thank you so much.. that's literally everything I wanted to know in once sentence

Hey Everyone! I've been showering at the Gym for the past few years, so my DIY bathroom never quite got finished, but now that all the gyms are shut I have to quite urgently make my bathroom work, I'm not on the last step which is installing a Calorifier. I'd really appreciate a response as I'm worried London is going to completely close down, so I want to make sure I get all my plumbing done whilst the hardware shops are still open. I have this one currently http://www.surejust.co.uk/55-litre-vertical-twin-coil-surecal-calorifier There are two coils and the instructions say the lower coil is for the engine and accepts Hose heater pipe whilst the middle coil is for a secondary engine/ heating device and accepts 15mm push fits. I don't have any heater pipe and so I'm thinking the easy thing to do is to use the upper Coil, which is just simple push fit. Would this still work? Or am I going to break something.. Also I have two pipes coming out from the engine that went into my old Calorifer, I have no idea which ones hot and which ones cold. Would the hot one be coming from the upper part of the engine and the cold from the lower part? There is a T connection which sends water to the header tank (plastic bottle) and through the bulkhead to where the calories is .. So I'm guessing this is the pipe with the hot water as the header tank contains hot water.. Just thought I'ts worth seeking your wisdom before I go plugging pipes in all over the place.. Cheers!

Hey! yes other than a bit of a spark that scared the hell out if me it worked, and inverter works fine! thanks a lot for all the help!

I'm no Tesla, but I think this means that I've just blown my mega fuse so is it 100% safe to just pull that fuse out by hand or will I blow up? One side is on the inverter the other is on my battery bank..

I don't think the isolater being on or off actually effects the inverter.. I think its direct to the bank (through a fuse) would I just disconnect the inverter cables from the bank manually.. i can never remember the order to disconnect them/ re connect them.. Cheers

Ah yes.. it also says it it fails to operate It could he in non fuctionality mode which requires removing the cable and putting it back in again. Is it safe to do that? Do I just switch the battery isolated off and then disconect the positive/ negative cables? Perhaps not after I get home from the pub tonight ?

I have not touched anything yet as I don't partucularly know what I'm doing in regards to electrics. There is a megafuse between the batteries and the inverter but it's in a casing. So i don't want to open it up without knowing if it could be live somehow...

Hey, I'm hoping to be proved wrong, but it seems i might have broken my inverter. it's a Victron 12 800 and it's been running fine for a couple of years. I've been cleaning up my cabin bulge after a huge leak and my last job in preparation for rust treatment/painting was to vacuum. So I plugged in my dyson and the inverter cut out after 10 mins or so.. I tried again and then it lasted about 30 seconds, The inverter then shut itself down, it tried to restart 30 seconds later and I heard the hoover (which was still set to on) start up and instantly cut out. I am not on the boat to check the power rating of the hoover right now, but i can only assume it was consuming too much energy. A quick google says perhaps up to 1400w. Now my inverter won't even turn on. My batteries are reading as 12.8 from both my solar controller and from a random gauge in the engine room (this reading was at night) I'm hoping an £800 piece of kit hasnt been destroyed by James Dyson! I thought perhaps the inverter maybe puts itself into a safety mode to avoid being overloaded constantly. Has anyone had a similar issue? Thanks a lot, James

I could see that the water pump and callorifier were both leaking, both have been removed, so hopefully there is nothing else... But I'll be keeping a close eye from now on after i install a new pump.. is Fertan good? It was the only thing my local chandelry had, but if not I can grab some vatcan.. still a while before I'll get to that stage anyway.. Cheers

It also looks likely that the rust has spread up behind the walls and i imagine thats why it was over-plated on the sides. would the sensible thing to do to be rip down the walls/insulation and essentially start again.. or is that an over reaction? thanks for all the help so far!

Thanks for the replies.. heres a clip of i scraping off.. wierdly satisfying, so can i apply vatcan as soon as I've got rid of all the cruddy bits? cheers!

Morning all! I havn't posted here in a long while but I'm hoping I can seek some advice. I'm on a 70ft nb with a 10mm base plate and overplated 6mm sides. I've recently removed a calorifier and upon doing so I discovered a rotten floor, below this I discovered about three inches of water resting under my bedroom. there is a lotttttttt of rust and I'm a bit scared about it. Upon buying my three years ago the boat the survey said baseplate measured between 10.1 to 8.9 with widespread pitting at 2mm. My question to the wise ones here is would you say this is safe to chip away at the rust or could I risk going right through my floor? And finding myself with a brand new swimming pool in my boat. I've read every forum post I can find on this topic and it seems the best things for the job would be a scraper/ wire brush on drill. Followed by a rust neatruliser like vactan, followed by some kind of paint. unfortunately this problem will mean I have to remove several walls and a massive chunck of the boats flooring, so any tips on how to make this as easy as possible would be greatly appreciated. the suspected cause of the leak is the calorifier and the water pump, both were wet and the water pump often went off for small birsts every now and then. This is the price you pay for the 'I'll fix it later' mentality... ? here is a link of the damage (aftrr I've removed the water) Thanks a lot! James

Hey, Luckily for me a neighbour managed to come and fix it, the cables had been disconnected because they were too short and couldn't withstand the vibration.. wierdly the warning light wasn't staying on despite this problem existing.. which makes me think the warning light is broken. Never ending to do list hey.. thanks a lot for all the help

Hey, yea there are two wires that seem to have been disconected, i'm attempting to upload a new video showing them clearly but my signal is weak here. I want to attempt to plug the cables together to see what happens, but I'm a bit skeptical of touching wires without having a clue what they are...

Thankyou, I'm not sure about the alternator make but the engine is a beta marine, although i think it has been merged with a kabota or something similarly names, but the logo says beta marine. Cheers!