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Batavia

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Posts posted by Batavia

  1. 21 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

    Seems a very robust solution, but I have not found any easy way of buying all the brass bits, (1 1/4" Female Elbow, Reducer & Male Barbed Connector), from a single source, without it being fairly expensive and/or incurring biggish carriage charges.

    That's what they said before both Deepwater Horizon and Texas City!

    Chris G

  2. My solution on the latter stages of Daedalus and on Batavia was to fit a brass 1 1/4" elbow on the end of the metal waste fitting (avoid plastic at all costs) and then fit a brass hose barb into the end of the elbow using a reducer, then hose to the skin fitting.  the whole assembly is very robust and no bodging is required.

    Although there is a "step" in the flow path, in practice this didn't seem to be a major problem with a 3/4" hose - depending obviously on what you put down the waste (and 1" would be even less problematic).  On the odd occasion it did partially block, a swift poke with a length of wire up through the skin fitting cleared the blockage.

     

    Chris G

  3. 6 hours ago, nicknorman said:

    I remember Henry’s radio spares. Think they were Tottenham Court Rd?

    The main Henry's Radio was in Edgware Road, but they had a smaller branch somewhere else (may have been TCR)..

    For those interested in a electronics/radio nostalgia, this web site has scans of most issues of Wireless World, Practical Wireless and Practical Electronics, plus a huge range of similar publications.  The advertisments make fascination reading - plus the realisation that nearly all of the companies which did advertise have long-since gone!  Warning - you can waste hours on this site...

    http://www.americanradiohistory.com/index.htm

    Chris G

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  4. Yet another vote for Trevor Whitling.  He did a hull survey of Daedalus for us and when we sold the boat, he also did a survey for the purchaser (which, bizarrely, I was left to superintend when the purchaser decided that he didn't need to be present after the first 10 minutes).

    Trevor is an excellent combination of thorough and pragmatic.

    Chris G

    • Greenie 1
  5. 3 hours ago, philjw said:

    That looks like a good idea at first sight but I would wonder what has caused the damage in the first place.  Is the pinion fouling on the ring gear whilst the flywheel is turning?  I would have said the noise would make this obvious if it is the case.

    These bronze ones are designed to be sacrificial.  With the Bosch starter motors on 2 of my  Bolinder 1052 engines, I have one with steel and one with bronze - and both types are still avaiable, so presumably a matter of choice - and of how much you value the teeth on the flywheel!

    Chris G

  6. 8 hours ago, Murflynn said:

    except that Deepwater Horizon was probably managed by ex-Amoco staff, and having worked for them in the UAE in 1982, I was singularly unimpressed and I encountered a complete absence of HSE awareness...............  did I mention cowboys?

    I believe they even managed to install the topsides of an offshore platform onto the jacket in the North Sea 180 degrees out of alignment in the same year. 

    As was the Texas City Refinery.  A bit of a theme emerging here...

    Chris G (ex-BP)

  7. 11 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

    Real life?

    Warbler has one, I think, and I'm sure there are several others in "historics".

    I thunk as well as Batavia, "Daedalus no 2" had the same?

    Daedalus No. 2 doesn't have a 1052 -  but I do have 4 x 1052s and 5 x gearboxes in various states of (dis)repair.  One of these will be replacing the one in Batavia some time soon, fitted with the gearbox that RLWP reconstructed for me.

    There is one in Sandbach and at least two more in boats whose names I can't remember!

    Chris G

  8. 19 minutes ago, LEO said:

    Sorry no, I was based in Harrow and Wembley for my sins from 1972 to '92 and had to travel to Twickenham and Kingston and used Windmill Lane frequently........crossing the A4 by all the factories (now gone), especially the beautiful Art Deco Goodyear? factory, which was demolished in 48 hours to avoid Listing problems.......

    Firestone, I think!

    http://www.bhsproject.co.uk/photo_gwrfirestone_py.shtml

    Chris G

  9. As you have pointed out, it should be simple to walk between the lock and the station, as you can see one from the other - but I don't think that there is any route you can take that avoids having to walk along some part of the B488 (which I assume is the busy road you mentioned).  Even if you go off footpaths, you come across drainage ditches and fences that are difficult to cross, with added livestock problems.

    I haven't had problems with cows in this area, but it is a few years since I have been on the paths to the south of Horton village.

    The route which includes the least hazardous/shortest section of road involves going along the bridleway that runs to the west of the railway line.  You get to it by walking straight on at the southerly right angle road bend in Horton village, where the bridleway goes off under the railway.  However, at the Cheddington end you have to walk back to the station from the nearest point of escape, which is between the houses on Cheddington Road.  This is certainly not the shortest route.

    Chris G

  10.  

    Now I have separate engine rooms in each boat ten feet away from the helm and behind a closed door. WHAT a delight to cruise without the engine noise remote instead of right in my ear!

    And you can inhale the particulate material from the exhaust all day long without having to bend over the stern!

     

    Chris G

     

    (about to modify Batavia's exhaust system so that it can either come out of the cabin roof or the stern of the boat, due to fed-up-ness with the clods of soot - although the impending engine swap might ease things somewhat)

  11. We had this problem on Batavia (which sits very low in the water), and solved it using a Whale Gulper pump. This works fine, with a few provisos:

     

    1. It is probably best to have the pump below the level of the bottom of the sink - ours is about 300 mm below the sink.
    2. Have a length of hose (about 1.2 metres in our case) before the pump, so that if some idiot pours a small amount of boiling water down the sink, it doesn't immediately reach the pump. Having said that, we haven't had any problems with draining pans of vegetables, etc.
    3. Ensure that the waste from the sink to the pump has a high level vented connection - e.g. the sink's overflow. A friend had a sink (with no overflow) which used a Gulper pump and all was well until someone ran the pump with the plug in the sink. The pump pulled the plug well and truly home and much dismantling had to be done to remove the plug. In any case, you don't really need a plug, as once the hose to the pump is full of water, the sink won't drain until you run the pump.

    Chris G

  12. I don't want to be cynical but any team building operation I've watched operating locks takes about three times longer than the slowest single-handed boater.

    I remember watching a team of bankers making a dog's dinner of the Marsworth locks.

    Not to mention the trail of chaos and ill-feeling that these people used to leave behind them!

     

    Chris G

  13. A long way.....

     

    It's about halfway between them both. There is a bus service stops at the young offenders centre next to it though.

     

     

    I believe that there is now only 1 bus per day (no. 13) in each direction, following the re-routing of the No. 12 service which runs between Daventry and Rubgy.

     

    Chris G

  14. Soft copper tubing is going to look a bit 'wriggly' if it's going to be visible as it comes in coils! I know you know this but I couldn't resist biggrin.png

    You are obliged to sue soft copper tubing, so you have to live with the wriggles.

     

    If you can find one, a Pyrotenax straightening tools (the thing that looks like a bizarre roller skate, is good for straightening copper tube, but you can do a good job by hand, provided that you never unroll it and roll it back up again!

     

    Chris G

  15. From reading previous posts, is it true that 15mm metric pipe needs to have min 1.0mm wall thickness if used for gas?

    I'm having some trouble as my recommended diameter is 15mm.

    Would it be better to use 1/2 inch to ensure regs are satisfied and accept some pressure loss?

     

    Cheers

    If you really want it, 15mm soft copper tube with 1 mm wall thickness is specified in the part of EN 1057, which replaced BS2871 Table Y for larger diameter soft pipe (Table W being for smaller sizes). Yorkshire Copper Tube sell it under the brand name of Kuterlon.

     

    However, 1/2" OD soft copper tube seems to suffice for most boat installations and is widely available, so it is difficult to see why you might need to go to 15mm tube.

     

    I think that you need to obtain, and accept, expert advice!

     

    Chris G

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