Batavia
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Posts posted by Batavia
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Belzona 111 would probably work well.
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There wasn't much available space on either of our last two boats, so I used 2.5mm brass strips on one side and 1mm PTFE strip on the other, secured with industrial double-sided adhesive tape.
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Try Nick at TW Marine - very knowledgeable and helpful.
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Heisenberg and Schrodinger were driving to work one day, when they were stopped by a traffic policeman.Policeman: "Do you now what speed you were doing?"Heisenberg: " No, but I knew exactly where I was."Policeman: "Well, you were doing exactly 81 mph."Heisenberg: "Thanks for that, but now I have no idea where I am."The policeman is now annoyed by the scientists' attitude, so he examines their car carefully, hoping to find a fault. Finally he opens the boot...Policeman: "Hey, did you know you've got a dead cat in here?"Schrodinger: " No, I wasn't certain, but I am now."Unfortunately there are many, many more of these!
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Thanks Graham.
PM sent.
Chris
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If anyone is is contact with the current owner of my former boat Batavia (a grey tug with many rivets), which I sold 18 months ago via Braunston Marina, please could you ask him to contact either me or the company which is storing some boat stuff for him?
The boat stayed in Braunston for a while but I heard a while ago that it was now somewhere "further North". Please PM me if any further information or clarification is required.
Many thanks
Chris G
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12 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
A typo, surely. Isn't it "Life's better in water"?
Or even "under water"?
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The problem seems to be that what was a small crack in the offside abutment of the Lower Kings Road bridge has become a large crack. The road and canal are both closed.
Chris G
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Needless Alley in Birmingham.
Chris G
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21 hours ago, blackrose said:
I think it do
es and this raises an interesting question: How come Whale can fit a NRV on their shower drain pump and it never clogs, but if I fit a NRV to a waste pipe or bilge pump outlet pipe it will clog?
Possibly because the Gulper NRV is of the type known as a duckbill valve. As these are basically full-bore valves, they are very difficult to block.
However, most people probably wouldn't think of fitting one in a boat, as they would be more familiar with a swing check or spring check type valve.
Despite being excellent for certain applications (typically in drainage systems) duckbill valves do have a couple of disadvantages, though. First, they don't completely prevent reverse flow and second, they normally have to be fitted (somehow) between flanges if they are to be installed in a pipe (as opposed to the end of an outlet).
Chris G
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16 minutes ago, Mac of Cygnet said:
As title, in today's paper. It's not a particularly well-constructed piece, and there's no point in giving a link, as you have to be a subscriber to read it, but this caught my eye:
"They need to be refuelled and supplied with water regularly by the delivery boats operated by CRT, which is included in an annual licence......"
?
Having read the print article, I think that you are being very polite!
Chris G
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There are many companies who can produce Traffolyte front panels and one which specialises in industrial, rather than marine, panels will probably be cheaper. However, be warned - one off panels of the kind you want won't be very cheap!
Chris G
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Our old Sibir fridge (a different model from yours) had an incredibly fine filter just before the burner jet, which looked like a dented washer whose centre was covered in a mesh you could barely see.. If your fridge has one of these, check that this is not blocked. It was necessary to dismantle the burner assembly (easily done).
When we finally got rid of the Sibir, due to increasing problems with lighting it, I dismantled it for spares - only to find that the pipework in the fridge was filled with rusty sludge. This was probably the underlying cause of the problem. Worth checking.
Chris G
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Wot? No Fluke?
Chris G
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13 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:
I too have a condensation problem on bare steel. Or my boat does anyway
Its on the undersides of the sliding hatches front and back. As the hatches slide they go over a steel ledge/upstand which would prevent sprayfoam getting past. I can only add 2mm or perhaps 3mm thickness of insulation. Any suggestions? Whatever I might use, the OP could use the same.
I always used foam board on the underside of sliding hatches. It has an impervious surface which can be wiped clean and comes in thicknesses from 1mm upwards. You can get a self-adhesive version, but I always used a contact adhesive - enjoy the fumes!
Chris G
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I have used Trevor Whitling, as have the purchasers of both of our former boats.
Chris G
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28 minutes ago, rogeriko said:
Dichloromethane
Banned by the EU in 2010
Not exactly banned but the Occupational Exposure Level can only be met with appropriate ventilation and correct application techniques - hence it is not available to the general public.
Paramose paint stripper contains dichloromethane and whilst in theory it is only sold to the trade, is actually quite easy to acquire - and it works!
Chris Gis
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6 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:
Solid mounting an HA engine would be normal, though.
Very true, but from my experience of designing transportable diesel-driven pumping systems, using Tico pads can remove a lot of vibration. I think that the cost of Tico, plus the area required (which normally involves installing intermediate steel plates between the engine feet and the bearers) are the main reasons why one doesn't find it used very frequently in boats.
Chris G
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I would recommend using Tico pads,with the proper bolt sleeves - but you will need a fair area of pad.
Chris G
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Also, in Berkhamsted, the signs by the winding hole have been replaced (not before time, as the previous ones were more or less illegible) but the new ones are not easy to interpret, as the "totem-ettes" are not in a logical vertical sequence! The ambiguity will doubtless be appreciated by those who choose to moor in the winding hole.
Chris G
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4 hours ago, dunfixing said:
Amps ohms volts,
easy way to understand is to compare it to water.
Volts = water volume,
amps = water pressure
and ohms(resistance) = restriction to flow, ie smaller pipe.
best way to understand if you are not familiar with electricary.
Up to a point...
Volts = pressure
Current = flowrate
Ohms as described
Chris G
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19 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:
Its a VERY stylish boat seen in the flesh. But it has no proper back cabin and is only 46ft and very poorly laid out inside. All in my personal opinion.
Bolinder 1052 in a nice engine room.
http://www.braunstonmarina.co.uk/Boat-Details/batavia
Thanks for (most of) your comments!
Batavia doesn't have a back cabin because there is insufficient height between the swim and the gunnel to fit in a cross bed - and we didn't like the layout where the bed goes lengthways (e.g. on Pacific).
As for the rest of the layout- a matter of choice! It worked for us...
The side fenders were initially chosen to stop the gunnel disappearing underneath the lock landings on the Thames, but proved to be very useful elsewhere.
Chris G
PS It also comes with about 3 tonnes of 1052 spare engines and gearboxes!
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11 hours ago, alan_fincher said:
Hopefully any cleanup operation or insurance payout after a "Sinkwater Flamingo" incident will come rather cheaper!
I shall take comfort from the fact that I am not a shareholder in the Flamingo Canal Carrying Company!
Chris G
PS - as an engineer, I am used to spending other people's money to achieve a good result - it is a bit different when it is one's own money...
FILM - BY NARROWBOAT ACROSS THE CHILTERNS in 1965
in History & Heritage
Posted
Having lived in Berkhamsted for a long time, it is fascinating to see how much has changed; the year by year incremental changes aren't that apparent as time goes by.
Also, it was interesting to see the final stages of the West Coast Mainline electrification in progress - the overhead gantries have been erected, but steam and Diesel locomotives are still running.