Tring Man

Thanks nicknorman for a very comprehensive/clear explanation that even I can follow. As the rated cut in pressure for the pump is 25 PSI I will set the accumulator pressure to 20 PSI and see how I get on over next week or so. DandV, thanks for identifying the pressure adjustment screw, I will leave as preset for now. One final question, everyone agrees 5 bar for PRV is too high, for a 40 PSI cut off pump what would be appropriate considering you have to allow for the mass and momentum of the water as well? Regards Alan

Okay, so conflicting advise regarding cold water accumulator pressure. I had set a few months ago between the cut in and cut out at 35 PSI (cut in is rated at 25 PSI and cut out at 40 PSI) as per advice I read at the time on the forum similar to that provided earlier in this thread. nicknorman is suggesting (if I understand correctly) that I should reduce to below cut in pressure, so perhaps 20 PSI? The problem as someone with no plumbing experience is knowing who's advice to follow. At least reducing the pressure would be a change, and so far I have not actually made any changes so can be certain problem not yet resolved!

Okay. Have checked out pump. It is a Jabsco (Flow jet) Par Max Plus 4 pressure controlled pump rated at 15 litres per minute. Pressure switch should cut in at 25 PSI (my cheap foot pump gauge read approx 27 so seems in line with spec) and should cut out at 40 PSI (I read 35 on my guage over 50 feet from pump which is over two years old, so again seems in line with spec). The only potential adjustment screw I can see is dead centre at top of pump/pressure switch housing and is coloured bright red. On the Jabsco website there is no direct mention of any pressure adjustability, however in one document I found a warning "NOT to adjust the preset pressure adjustment screw", so this must be to what DandV is referring. I am now worried if I do try to adjust just how sensitive it may be and if I can do more damage than good, at the moment everything works even if I get occasional pulsing. I do not want to end up having to replace a £175 pump.! What is the forum's advice? Regards Alan

Already opened PRV to let water flow just before replacing it two months ago for that very reason (did not find any dirt as such but did have some limescale).

Okay. Have checked and accumulator on cold water side of system even though located next to calorifier. Both pipe connection colour (blue) and temperature of pipe confirm. Initial pressure according to foot pump gauge connected to the accumulator was 35 PSI, as I had left it (little or no loss of pressure) when I replaced PRV a couple of months ago. When I then run the water (hot or cold) the pressure reading (at accumulator) dropped to about 27 PSI before pump kicked in, when it rose to 30 PSI at which pressure it remained constant. Remember that accumulator over 50 feet from pump (60 foot boat). When I turned off the tap pressure rose back to 35 PSI in a few seconds and pump cut out. So everything seems to be setup and working as everyone suggested it should be in this thread. Except that every now and again I hear pump pulsing (usually randomly happens repeatedly every 5-10 minutes for a few hours/day or so before just stopping again) and see water (wetness) down side of boat where PRV pipe exists hull suggesting over pressure. No other signs of leeks anywhere. Will have a look shortly at pump to see if I can find any adjustment as described by DandV. Regards Alan

Just to let you know I will not have time to look at this today, but will hopefully get back to you tomorrow. One problem is that the responses appear to fall into two distinct categories, setting accumulator pressure either above or below pump pressure. Which is correct? I assume the answer is related to whether accumulator is on cold or hot water side. It is physically located next to calorifier rather than anywhere near cold water tank, so it may well be hot water side. I will check the pipes! Very interested in DandV comment about an adjustment on the pump itself, it is a flow jet (Jabsco) but I have not noticed any adjustment screw to date. Will have a look at that too. Thanks for all the responses/help. Regards Alan

Tony, sounds interesting, So to be clear, I would connect the car tyre pump to the accumulator (exactly what I used to pressurise it originally when I set it a few PSI below water pumps 40 psi a few months ago when I changed PRV), open a tap to get pump going, then close tap to check what pressure registers on tyre pump pressure gauge as pump turns off a few seconds later. Have I got that right?

No idea what pressure is being produced by the pump, have no way to measure. As I mentioned earlier, it is certainly seems no higher pressure than when I originally installed a couple of years ago, if anything it is lower. So if it is higher than rated, it has always been that way, and problem has only occurred over the last few months.

Changed (like for like) the PRV a few months ago. Used 5 bar as that is what was fitted. Sorry, no idea on what calorifier is fitted. Not sure that I set the accumulator pressure above 40 psi though, recall setting it in mid 30's. So sounds like that needs resetting. What pressure PRV would you expect to see with a 40 psi (2.8 bar) pump? Pump was replaced just over 2 years ago, it is a Jabsco. Water pressure from taps does not seem any different over that time.

Having problems with water pump pulsing and pressure release valve "releasing" water. What is the correct relationship between the pressure settings for the water pump, the accumulator and the pressure relief valve? The water pump is rated at 40 psi (2.8 bar). The pressure relief valve is 5 bar. Is this the correct rating for the PRV considering the pump? What pressure should I pump the accumulator up to in this system? Regards Alan

Thanks for the responses. I am going on Monday up to see Channel Glaze and talk to them about their DG product, and understand why they choose not to use a thermal break. I will update on my findings. Regards Alan

Double glazing posts seem to come up every year or two with people proposing to go ahead and install, but then no feedback on issues/benefits. As I am considering installing, I would appreciate any feedback from those who have had double glazing installed. Channel Glaze seems to be best known, and generally get positive feedback, but their DG does not include a thermal break. Wesley Marine do offer DG with a thermal break, but I have not seen any feedback on quality of their products or how easy they are to work with. Are there any other DG installers anyone would recommend? Just to be clear, I am looking primarily to eliminate/reduce both condensation and noise whilst reducing heating costs. I am not interested in secondary DG solutions. Any feedback would be from those with actual DG experience would be really appreciated. Regards Alan

Thanks for all the great/useful and I believe mostly grammatically correct feedback ☺️ I think I will follow Lilly Rose's excellent suggestion, and buy both the Pearson's and Nicholson guides for our local area, and try out the online tools as we travel. We can then argue between the two of us (SWMBO) about which are the best and buy the one she wants. Regards Alan

New to boating, having survey done on potential purchase next Friday ☺️ In the community is there an accepted standard for canal maps that I should look to buy? Regards Alan

Appreciate your feedback, I will try to find a good surveyor. Steve Hand seems to get good feedback, I will start with him.