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The Grumpy Triker

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Posts posted by The Grumpy Triker

  1. 2 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

    I think it depends on what you mean by "Rockwool", which is really a brand name, rather than any specific product.

    I don't think the term just relates to stuff on a roll, for loft insulation, does it?

    I think some slab insulation is also called "Rockwool".

    But yes, I agree, use slabs, which can generally be persuaded to wedge in until lined over in whatever material you choose.

    The only thing I would say is that you may need to compress them a bit.  In "Flamingo" the polystyrene we removed was only a disappointing 25mm thick, (no doubt part of why it takes some heating!).  We have replaced with 50mm wool slabs, but into a gap that is often not quite 50mm.

    What OP has not mentioned is what goes between insulation and ceiling.  I think common wisdom is to put a plastic membrane in, although in our last professionally fitted boat there was none, and we never had any problems because there wasn't one.

    Thanks Alan....I know you have the membrane in an attic roof space but wasn't sure what happened with steel....do you stick the membrane to the steel or just have it wedged between the 

    Just taken down the polystyrene in the roof (same as yours only 25mm and not all over) and realised there are no battens in the middle.....large thin sheeting x 2 in an overlapping was just stuck to the above and wedged between two side battens for good measure.

    There are a couple of cross beams but not what I expected.

    This could be fun now :huh:

  2. 13 minutes ago, koukouvagia said:

    Instead of Rockwool, which is floppy and difficult to fix to a ceiling, why not use slab insulation?  This is designed to be wedged tight between battens. You will need a vapour barrier.  I used plastic sheets stapled to the battens.

    I know not everyone likes Thinsulate, but I've got this in our newly renovated back cabin and there's not the slightest trace of condensation.  This is also easy to fix; you just use contact adhesive.

     

    Being a bit dim on this front, the vapour barrier goes steel side or room side of the insulation?

    not heard of thinsulate before..?...am assuming it bends with the roof shape?....what is it that people don't like about it?

    Was going rockwool way as didn't think the block insulation would bend enough...hence why I'm calling on the knowledge of the Cutting Crew

    Many thanks for such a prompt response :cheers:

  3. Hi all,

    Hopefully a quick question, although judging by other threads on the topic it may not be.

    I'm replacing the internal ceiling (sorry can't remember the proper name for one on a boat) & the old packing foam style insulation in the boat as it is all a bit tatty and I have a few leaks.....plus when I get the stove installed I think it would be wise not to burn the inside.

    I think I have to use rockwool as celotex doesn't look like it will bend with the roof shape but either way.....Do I need to prime the inside of the steel before putting in the insulation?and is it worth putting a thin layer of insulation over the wooden battens before putting in the new ceiling? (I don't have the option of spray foam or anything like that for now.)

    Lovely snow scene outside here....not much to do except for keep ripping the boat apart :D

  4. Sorry folks been offline for a day or two - many thanks for all on the above :cheers:

    Hadn't considered carpet tiles but a good option for removal and cleaning/replacement, big thick underlay is a must it seems, especially as found big gaps around the flooring to wall boards.

    The only concern is I also have some bouncy boarding areas, it seems that the edging to the floor boards were not always matched up to the support beams, so it has some flexible edges....bouncy not sponges thankfully, so do not appear to be rotting, unlike the boarding on the inside of the bow.

    Cheers again all, will take a look around later today.

  5. 1 minute ago, David Schweizer said:

    We had a vynil floor in the lounge of Helvetia, but the problem with carpets on boats is keeping them clean, so rather than replace it, we opted to retain the vynil and buy some for some substantial carpet rugs, which can be easily replaced if they get too grubby. It also means yiou can change the colour theme everyb few years. We got some really good carpets fopr quite a reasomnaBLE COST FROM iKEA.

    Is a good thought - cheers David....the current vinyl flooring is a tad cold, even for me. My problem with rugs is that I'm a clumsy old sod and could guarantee I'd go Arse over....

    my aimwas to buy a carpet that I didn't mind replacing every year or two....is only me on the boat and if I buy a nice dark speckled colour then things shouldn't show after a good clean....or so I hope :D

    Just now, The Grumpy Triker said:

    Is a good thought - cheers David....the current vinyl flooring is a tad cold, even for me. My problem with rugs is that I'm a clumsy old sod and could guarantee I'd go Arse over....

    my aimwas to buy a carpet that I didn't mind replacing every year or two....is only me on the boat and if I buy a nice dark speckled colour then things shouldn't show after a good clean....or so I hope :D

    Forgot to say that I use the rear of the boat to go in and out so the bow will only suffer curry, lager, milk, cereal, ......etc. spills ;)

  6. Hi all,

    Following a bereavement and a change in circumstance am now keen to resolve the new lounge layout starting with the floor.

    The current flooring whilst great in summer is blooming cold underfoot and I suspect (like most of the finishing) the bouncy element comes from a big gap in the flooring as this runs in a consistent line along the boat.

    I want to put carpeting in the lounge area but does anyone recommend or warn against any specific type of underlay? I may have to re-lay some boarding underneath to close some gaps but don't want to lay some underlay and find it attracts moisture to damage the carpet from underside.

    Will be a cheap thick and replaceable cost on the carpet but equally a soggy floor from will be worse than a cold one....having said that my heTing is still not working properly as yet so the condensation is worse is my head than it will be.

    Hope all are well.

  7. 5 hours ago, David Mack said:

    It's not " no option" though, it's just bl**dy awkward. I have reversed boats a mile or more to wind. A boat longer than the normal channel width but less than full length can usually find somewhere to wind without needing a full winding hole. And towing from the bank can be easier than steering in reverse on some boats. It just depends on how much you want to make it happen.

    I can't reverse straight for more than 5' ....a mile or more!....that is some skill. Give me 10yrs and I may try it :D

  8. I've only had my boat since August following some work identified by the survey and have a bit of sympathy for the OP as they appear to be genuine. There is so much to think about in those early days, and despite planning things get missed, I had additional work done in Nantwich in Oct and was on a run south to the Severn when the fuel pump went so that could have put me at the mercy of the winter closures despite having read through them....I probably have a bit more time to kill than the OP as I did read through everything but only just remembered to check with the C&RT site despite it being on my things to do list, so can imagine people missing it in their first 6 months.

    Have to say, people talk about turning round on the cut after a lock closure but a lot of people may not get that option given no winding hole. Also understand the suspicion on here as one boater actually admitted to doing it after a few beers in a pub one evening, and would not be surprised by any hard stance from C&RT.

    Good luck to you OP, and to everyone else out on the cut....maybe a milder winter this year!?...let's hope for a 'not-too-wet' one, unless it refers to a drink or two.

    A winter of work to make the boat my own but looking forward to getting out and about next summer. After a breakdown, split from wife and health issues am enjoying my new life, despite having to work still, and can't wait for early days of spring....although that does mean boat repainting time so lots of scrubbing back of existing stuff and sanding down but looking forward to it. :cheers:

    • Greenie 2
  9. 21 hours ago, Heartland said:

    Well I understand the tidal section is south of Tewkesbury. And by this definition covers the river to Gloucester Lock and over towards Over. But then there is Tidal part where the river becomes an Estuary So what can this be called. The Lower Lower Severn. And what about the navigation at Shrewsbury is this the Upper Upper Severn. Being a historian, I prefer anything north of Bewdley to be called the Upper Severn and that below the Severn. I also recall that a few years ago there were plans to restore the navigation upstream of Bewdley and that restoration had the name Upper Severn

    You have tidal and non-tidal south of Tewkesbury......and to be honest you are allowed to call it what you like, as am I. So long as place names qualify the situation then everyone will understand.

    History is always changing and our understanding of it also, too many people tend to focus on a specific writing or view of history in order to justify their position as opposed to enjoying it and moving on.....all a bit like religion really, too many people become hung up on  a specific focus, telling people they're wrong because it doesn't fit with their own view of life or ideology speaks for itself I think.

    ......not saying that you were down this path, but people don't have to agree on names for everything.:cheers:

    Tolerance in an intolerant World is in itself a self gratifying thing......or you can just turn your back and get on with life.....equally self gratifying at times.

  10. 1 hour ago, Heartland said:

    The term Upper Severn is an interesting one, as the navigation from Stourport to Gloucester, I would prefer to call Severn rather than Upper Severn. So where does start Upper Severn start? There are limited navigation sections at Coalbrookdale and Shrewsbury. That at Shrewsbury was made possible though the making of a weir of sufficient height to permit a trip boat to run between the English & Welsh Bridges. Navigation was once possible up river as far as Pool Quay and in real terms the sections from Shrewsbury to Pool Quay and Shrewsbury to Bewdley are best referred to as Upper Severn. Above Pool Quay there was a high weir made in Medieval times that prevented barges from travelling further up stream, although it is believed that it was once possible. For those who visit Pool Quay today there is still an inn there that was once used by the barge owners.   

    Nice bit of history but I guess the relevant term here is 'was navigable' - as I wasn't around in those days, and to clarify my own terminology, I would refer to the Upper Severn as being the navigable non-tidal section above where the tidal and 'Lower' Non-Tidal river sections meet.

    I guess that's the beauty of the modern world, always changing ;):D

    I hope that clarifies my view of the River Severn today. :cheers:

  11. 33 minutes ago, mross said:

    Did the RCR bloke show you the breather for the fuel tank?

    Aargh!....forgot that bit in the rain....will get him to Show me Tuesday as your info was of big value....I feel that knowing where that is will be a biggie in future ....many thanks again mross 

    4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

    OK you have had welding done on the tank, it is not unknown for a piece of scale to get sucked up against the fuel take off pipe cutting back the fuel supply, when the engine dies and the lack of suction drops the scale to the bottom of the tank and off you go again until the next time

    Nope  - not on the tank, the tank had to be emptied due to the Welding just outside it on the hull. ...but again a good shout.

  12. OK folks, RCR guy just left, spot on service I have to say, even though he's been tearing around all day.

    - No extra filter just the primary and secondary

    - Fuel came out clear as day, nothing in there except pure clean diesel....no water, nothing

    - Tested it with a secondary field pump after replicating my issue after just 3-5 minutes of runtime, checked lines and nothing coming through - test pump work like a dream.

    - switched back to boat pump and awaited it to stall again....nothing!....worked like a dream, but not safe enough to go on the river so having an enforced holiday in Tewkesbury until Tuesday probably.

    thanks again to all for their help, greatly appreciated.:cheers:

    Time for a beer or two to drown my sorrows :D

  13. 3 hours ago, Ace 01 said:

    This happened to me last season after a service with filters etc changed. About 50 hours after the service there was an occasional loss of power. This gradually got worse until the engine stalled regularly. After a lot of cranking the engine eould start then run erratically then ok for a varying amount of time ( possibly several hours) until repeating. We called RCR out three times and on the third visit their engineer discovered the fuel/ water filter bleed screw had been loosened to bleed the fuel line after a new filter was fitted and then tightened onto the sealing washer whilst the washer was off centre. This worked ok for a while but under certain conditions would leak fuel/ allow air in to the diesel feed with the associated problems. Fitting a new washer correctly got us going and it has been ok since then (summer 2016).

    Engine is Canaline 42 but filter housing was one fitted by boat builder separate to engine.

    Many thanks for that Ace....and Laurie ...much appreciated .....engine not fully stalled as yet but been close to it so far.

  14. 1 minute ago, zenataomm said:

    Drain some off from the fuel filter or bleed valve into a glass, let it settle and look for paleness/cloudiness.

    There is a paste you can buy which you stick on the end of your fuel tank dipstick or mop handle (in my case) and then dip it into the bottom of the tank.  If there's water there it changes colour.

    Clever Clicky

    Cheers for that :cheers:

    Not got a fuel tank dipstick yet mind :D

  15. 26 minutes ago, dor said:

    Many years ago I has a similar experience.  It was caused by water in the diesel.

    How on earth do you check for that? This would be one of my biggest fears but also unsure how it would have got there as it has been all but full for all 3 weeks and never refuelled in anything but dry conditions. The boat had been sat for quite some time prior to me picking it up but again, it has taken 3 weeks to materialise, just seems at odds with the performance to date.

    Thanks for the comments again though, all worth considering. :cheers:

     

  16. 54 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

    If draining and welding and then refilling the tank, it is possible all the crap has been stirred up and blocked the filters.  Just an idea.

    Very True should have confirmed that they would flush it through or a full clean for me....they 'may' have done it but not sure and didn't explicitly ask. Having said that, it has taken over three weeks to show itself so strange in that sense...unless a slow build up.

    RCR on the way...will watch closely and going to book their annual free inspection plus add a full service for asap.

    thanks again for the ideas :cheers: ...all good learning.

  17. 2 hours ago, Scholar Gypsy said:

    Sounds as though it may be worth checking the condition of your fuel as well?  Did the previous owner add anything to kill diesel bug? Is there any water in the tank? 

    It was a hire boat previously and no idea how to check for water but the tank was drained on purchase so that I could get two steps welded near the stern while it was out for blacking and the guy is a well trusted sort so if any water then it can only be since and it has been close to full all the time since then.

    will get some of that stuff to add in now just in case.....I know it divides opinion but better safe than sorry for the future I guess.

  18. 24 minutes ago, bizzard said:

    Also check any fuel tap cocks like the one at the tank are fully open, Depending on the angle they're installed, they have been known to begin to close under vibration. The ball type that is,  tapered plug cocks are usually too stiff for it to happen.

    Cheers Bizzard :cheers:

    Fuel taps in and excess drain are both ok but will have to hunt for this little burger of a filter - new one for me so all good learnings :D

  19. 2 minutes ago, Nick D said:

    The very same thing happened to me on the Ouse a few days ago.  Just as we were a quarter of a mile or so of reaching the landing pontoon the power dropped. I kept lifting and engaging the morse control and eventually we got there though it was a bit scary going against the fairly strong flow.  We firstly moored up on the pontoon and then manged to get into the lock but on inspection in the engine bay, there was a small amount of diesel coming from what I now know is the primary diesel filter. I phoned RCR and the engineer came out the next morning and replaced it.  I think you are well within your rights to phone them if you have a problem which, like me, meant you would not be happy continuing without fixing the problem.

    Cheers Nick - makes me feel better about phoning them. Have to book my free service so will get my confidence back by knowing what I'm looking at on the engine .....will check this secondary filter if I can find it, I like to try, makes me feel better....provided I don't screw it up :D

    nice to know I'm not alone :cheers:

  20. 1 minute ago, mross said:

    It would prove that the breather (vent) on the tank was blocked.  This breather is often separate to the cap.  It should have a gauze on it or in it to keek out insects etc.  It will be external and probably near the base of the tiller.

    Excellent - many thanks again mross:cheers: ...sorry to be a numpty so advice greatly appreciated.

    A few beers tonight and I'll get checking tomorrow morning. An external air breather filter would make more sense as fuel has been bought from 4 different suppliers and topped up to the top each time so just doesn't feel right....even though it is now I've said that.

    Am used to tracing issues back through in another realm but fuel filter just seemed strange given so recently serviced.

    A good excuse for a day off tomorrow ;)

  21. 2 minutes ago, nb Innisfree said:OP how do you know it's still not leaves,? Stopping prop will allow them to fall away. 

    I don't but Gut fell tells me that the current issue isn't consistent with the previous issue and certainly not with the conditions of the river, 

    ....most importantly, after shifting to nuetral the prop kept turning freely but the engine was spluttering in nuetral, but only when left to calm down did the engine settle again.

  22. Just now, mross said:

    Or the breather is blocked on the fuel tank.  But certainly a fuel problem.  There may be more than one fuel filter, so follow the line from engine to tank.  If it happens again take the fuel filler cap off and see if it makes a difference.

    Cheers mross:cheers:

    Used to do this stuff on cars and motorbikes in the 80s but totally loss confidence since computers took over.

    BTW - If fuel filler cap off does make a difference,what does this mean?

  23. OK thank you - I'm in the bracket of 'A little knowledge is a dangerous thing'- I also had the answer "It's obviously something round the prop or shaft!" - been down the weedhatch so often to no avail that I'm like an F1 tyre changer with the hatch now :D

    My confusion on this is that it keeps clearing and given a clean filter less than 130hrs of cruising time I thought ....hoped it would still be clean.

  24. Hi folks,

    Apologies for yet another post but on the way down the Severn I have had an engine issue. Isuzu 34bhp on a 59' nb.

    On the canals from Nantwich to Kidderminster we had a few moment of sudden power loss, which I put down to leaves in the prop, went to Neutral, blast in reverse or two, back to neutrL and then pull away again....apart from a couple of locks full of leaves and debris after the storm this worked well.....

    .....sadly this continued with more regular frequency after Kidderminster and more worryingly down on my way down the Severn.

    The problem manifests itself in a noticeable loss of power, a much louder exhaust beat and even if I push full throttle it adds nothing. I put it into nuetral and the engine splutters for a while and then after a few moments it settles and regains normal revs on idle, at this point I can then add power and of we go again for between 2 and 4 miles....although it has been with increasing regularity and longer recovery times. Engine really shakes on its mountings when recovering then it settles.

    Engine had a full service (supposedly and I have no reason to disbelieve) before I picked it up, I use the stern greaser twice daily and more on longer runs. Oil in engine and gearbox checked & topped up as required (gearbox oil did get lower than I would like but still within guide marks. Fuel in abundance, air filter clean as can be, not checked fuel filter as yet....but before I do that my worry was around the lack of response to the throttle.

    On the basis that it is air or fuel, I guess it is now fuel but wondered if anyone had experienced this before I call out an engineer...Not sure if RCR would respond given that I am not stuck and can move in some fashion....not far from Gloucester but holed up awaiting the Spring Tide and the winds tomorrow afternoon so last leg Sunday I guess.

     

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