The Grumpy Triker

Ahhh......so you don't have to seal it off to the wall for stability then, but could set it against the wall for use but without fixing it?....thus being able to move it and extract the cassette? .....and it remains stable?.....when I have my occasional bump it won't start toppling over like some coming out of the pub on a New Year's Eve? As mentioned, it is only a back up as I have the pump-out loo in the shower room space so it won't be used too often and will normally be clean and empty during my travels.

Don't do yourself down ....I work with computers but can't find a wa to get a diagram in here If you draw a long line of 120cm along the bottom, left side up 50cm then turn right angles to the right for 60cm then turn right angles up for 30cm then turn right angles to the right for 65cm (in this corner is a small narrow sink) then turn right angles downwards to meet the original line. The left side is the main boat corridor and doorway into the loo - the bottom right corner was where the loo was gong to go (ideally diagonally but doubtful now). The right side is the window and the bottom line is the dividing wall to my bedroom with wardrobe immediately backing onto it.....hope that all makes sense

Many thanks all.....as ever greatly appreciated. Not looking forward to removing the macerator and pipes & the capping off bit but is my last task before the building fun begins....making all my own furniture/cupboards etc. so a nice project and will transform the bow end of it from a hire boat into my boat.

This is where I think I am missing something and as a newbie I assume too much....by bulkhead you mean the external wall I what I envisage?....but can't imagine having a hatch cut through the steel for cassette extraction? In my head I can only see the cassette being taken out horizontally (cassette is vertical ) from the back i.e. not thrugh the sides of the upright portion....I gues this means that as per Smelly's advice that a false wall against the external wall could help....but unsure how deep this would need to be if I was to extract the cassette through this false wall Sounds like it.....I think I need to see the clearance space requirements for the cassette extraction if I was to build a false wall or it delimits me down to fewer options. Can't really shift the wardrobe either.

I'm reducing it down to a 'Squared off b-Shape' So Main area will be 87.5cm by 65cm (this is the dividing wall to the wardrobe) with a mini-corridor style bit of 60cm by 50cm (this is the dividing wall to the wardrobe). The b-Shape size is also dictated by a window as want to keep this fully in the loo space as well as an existing vent. This narrower bit is so that on the other side of this I can install shelving/cupboard space as part of the extended galley - as it is purely a back-up loo I want to make it as compact as possible so have a small narrow sink opposite where the loo will go I liked the 200 as I thought could install it diagonally in the corner....thinking that the cassette came out of the base.

Good Point about the lifting out

....but always though a hatch at the back or it can be extracted left or right within the toilet space?

Cheers for that

Cheers for that - yep that's the one I looked at but is there no option other than extracting the cassette through a hatch in the back wall? ....Smelly's comments support the one liner => If you install with seat swivelled you can extract left or right.....not sure what that really means as I can't picture what installed as swivelled means or see where the cassette comes out. Am probably missing the obvious I know but just can't see it in any pictures so that I can visualise it in my loo space......the back wall for the loo will back onto wardrobe space on the other side so don't really want an extraction hatch through my clothes

Weeeeeeee......and ermmmm the other ....a good bit of evostik or if that melts the toilet maybe some simple battens around the base. I can't see how the seat swivel helps with the cassette extraction....the pictures I've seen seem to show the cassette being extracted through the back only?...or am I mixing up the models? As for your last sentence.... ....it will be another pump out for sure

Have read through those but not convinced but now you've set them off as well !! The only issue I had initially with a Porta Potti is the height....but I guess I can always set it up on a plinth style base?

Hi all, Before anyone gets all smug bout a 'Pump-Outer' converting to the 'Cassette Brigade' ...I'm converting the front loo from a second pump out to a back-up loo so trying to choose what to fit in there ad have to admit to being confused about the cassette toilet options, mainly due to my initial assumptions. The space is being halved so that I can extend the galley but still have a reasonable amount of room and was looking at options in the cassette loo range so I will now join the Pump-Out & Cassette loo range owners....although I will always prefer the pump out I think My first assumption was that they were all free-standing i.e. manual fill water tank and manual pump etc. so that should I run out of water and electric, I still had an option. Most of the offerings see to be a permanent fixture and fixed to a wall with a hatch in an internal wall through which you could pull out the cassette. The Thetford C200CW was one I found which suggested you could take out the cassette through the side but saw no visible example of this option and others were more of the fully plumbed and electrically linked options. At the risk of starting a war between the cassette toilet owners and generating fun for the Pump-Outs who will undoubtedly lob a few verbal grenades in there ==> Please could you offer me any pieces of advice about which type to go for and/or any pros / cons on your own choices? I would prefer higher seated option due to hip trouble but there is room for the standard home style and for a bench style in the space I've allocated. ==> What do you do if you get caught with no electric and it is wired in? ==> Is a fan recommended? ==> I guess you can jus add water to the bowl from a bottle or other if the water pump/internal supply fails? ==> Are there any major downsides to using them infrequently? I'm a sole live-aboard and prefer the Pump-Out so it will only be used in emergencies or for large gatherings, so assuming that so long as I clean it out after these events and leave it clean, there should be no issues......possibly maintenance to stop seals drying out? Am just about to block off the old pump out ad remove the macerator and bowl ....last steps before the front end rebuild starts, so really want to be sure I make an informed choice on what to fit in the space before I start putting all the walls back up. Many thanks again in advance to any and all who give up their time to respond.

I use a guy called Paul who does the electrics for the day trip and live-aboard owners of this company in Gloucester. Paul is based near Stourport so you're even closer than me and whilst not cheap...his words...he has a good reputation. No connection just a satisfied customer - good advice, good humour and goes the extra mile.....private message me if you're interested and I'll send you his mobile number.

I've just stripped out all of the ceiling insulation polystyrene layers then the roof board on my live-aboard....leaks and condensation running from different places so easier to strip back, scrub and re-insulate.....a product I quite liked the look of and bought was thinsulate and will have this plus a membrane layer and then the ceiling material.....not cheap but seems easy to handle, flexible and good quality......I hope it matches expectations. Just an option as can't comment on personal results yet still prepping but ready to start refitting soon.....great customer service though...Marine Industrial in Norfolk.

These new expanding foams really do put some pressure out - sorry you had the negative....don't like being right in these instances. Just wondering whether it would be a good idea to put expanding foam around the water tank in the bow space bit of insulation!? Some of the ceiling polystyrene insulation was water logged so refitting nearly half the boat this winter....has worked out for the better as able to expand the galley.

Good luck Hopefully it isn't one of those to push your panels out....seen that one but then the fitting of the panels was none too clever

Had a similar thought for one area but someone made the point that the 'expandin' foam doesn't always expand as you would like it to ....so I gave that one a miss and am living in a building site I've bought two heater now that I have a shoreline connection but also borrowing a few others in readiness for recreating Dubai temperatures inside.....and am stoking up the electric account in readiness.

yep I did note it but others had said other side and some products are sealed both sides I think....was just about to ask you again as going by loft space coverage etc. Is always inside facing.....but not having dealt with a steel roof before I thought I'd better check again as your post made sense given my slim knowledge. Thanks for the clarification Got a lot of steel scrubbing and epoxy filling on old screw holes to do but cold weather won't help with condensation so not sure under what conditions I can do the refit of the insulation....not even chosen my ceiling material as yet, will need new battens for sure. I have gone for the thinsulate, just seems the best option for my skills and situation....expensive but the most flexible....let's hope I've not put the mockers on it Many thanks to all on here, all really helpful responses, even if it did widen my choices a bit. Should say ...seemed expensive until I worked out all of the other prices in full...not the cheapest would seem to be a better comment.

Cheers again. i quite like this option as I have a few protruding screws/rivets on the inside of the roof which would immediately pierce any condensation barriers on a slab material......would it really make a difference?....I don't know but given the option like this it seems a good option. The old styrofoam of some sort was held on by something with the consistency of a bathroom sealant and have got rust areas (thin) on all areas of the application....and fun at this time of year is that every morning the condensation is like a rain shower where I've stripped the insulation.....helped by a few leaky screw holes as well All of which keeps me busy and doing my project....want it finished before next summer but will have to be patient on all fronts.

Many thanks Cut ...is there a specified thickness or a choice?.....if a choice what did you have fitted? Many Thanks DW will have a nose for sure

Many thanks all....I knew this wouldn't be a quick one ...more choices and a bit of pondering required.

Thanks DC I was told it wasn't too flexible so may not fit the curve in the roof and looked expensive....but may not be looking at the right product on their website

Thanks BEngo I think the one thing I'm most concerned about will be the stove chimney...does it need special insulation or given a twin skin flu are most insulators fire safe?....or will that need something like rockwool surrounding it?

That's a good point on the half thickness - thanks....will have to ski to B&Q and test out the bend ....I think they have Celotex. The gluing bit again makes sense (no major issue as you say but just not as expected son initial plans need amending), just wondering about the bond to the membrane an onwards to roof....unless I glue to roof and then fix membrane under that?...yep I know, will be a bloody daft question to many