echo801

THANK YOU. Yes it was the screw under the cover that needed tightening: it had come loose. Many many thanks for everybody's help.

Hello I have a problem with my hand throttle/gear control: when I pull it out, to engage neutral, nowt happens. I can spin it freely around and around and neutral will not engage: although forward and reverse gears seem to engage ok. I've a BMC 1800 engine and the control, a single handle jobby, has MM Marine printed on it. It looks to me that all the cables are connected correctly, to the control and the engine, and I'm at a loss as what to do. It's particularly galling as it happened after I had an engineer who was sorting out a smoky engine (now diagnosed as a leak in the return pipe). I don't know if he was over heavyhanded in pulling the control in and out of gear (without using the release button of course). Anyway, if anybody has any idea what the problem might be I would be grateful for any replies.

Continued from the thread regarding the behaviour of the Horse Drawn Barge on the K&A at Kintbury. It was pointed out that they moor on the opposite side of the canal to the towpath. This mooring is actually a winding hole; and the only one that can take a craft over 55' for miles. Complained to the Enforcement Officer and he shrugged and said they bring a lot of business into the area: well they pay a licence fee to BW I suppose. Actually since I mentioned it to the enforcement officer I have been fairly comprehensively hounded with notices etc: but I recognise that that is my problem. Point is there are permanent mooring buoys there; the winding hole sign has been removed and never replaced and the so called enforcement officer will take no action. Cor. Wish I could get a free mooring like that. Comments?

HA! They actually moor their boat across a winding hole. It's the only winding hole that can take a craft over 55' for miles. It means that if you wish to (for example) cruise from Hungerford to the Dundas Arms for a spot of lunch you then have to travel another 4 or 5 miles or so to turn round. Yes. They actually moor across a winding hole: there are permanent mooring buoys there; they have a designated mooring on the towpath side, but only use it to pick up passangers; the BW sign indicating a winding hole has been removed:when I complained to the Enforcement Officer he shrugged and said, "Well they bring a lot of trade into the area". So it would appear that some people are more enforced against than others. In fact I'm so ticked off about the hypocrisy I'll start this as another thread.

This sign has recently appeared on the kennet and avon in Kintbury. Anybody that has moored in the area from May to October has probably experienced the sudden thump, thump, thump of boots on the roof; the ripping off of their tv aerial etc. The boat company has absolutely no regard for other boaters whatsoever. I simply throw open to the forum the legitimacy of the sign: surely it is encumbent upon the boat company to use all reasonable care when trampling over other peoples crafts. I'm sure BW gets a hefty licence fee from the company in order to operate. But... ... Is this legal?

Thanks for everybody's help and advice. I really hoped there was a way of removing the frame without having to drill out the rivets. Found a friendly glazier who's tackled this job before: at least I've found the shop, he'll be in tomorrow and I shall have a chat then. The assistant in the shop thought that as the window had wedge seals it might be possible to do the job on site without removing the whole frame. You're right about the glass having to be order specially. Is drilling out rivets and refitting as hard as it sounds or as easy as I hope, if it comes to having to do it that way. Again thanks again to all.

.. looks like an air-rifle shot or a catapult. I have absolutely no idea how to replace the glass. It's a basic hopper type window with rubber seals.. and if somebody could help me by letting me know how I go about replacing the glass I would be very grateful. First thing is: how do I get the glass out. Then, of course, how do I get it back in again. There are some screws on the inner frame that I have removed but that has achieved squat - I am assuming I have to remove part of the frame to get to the galss. The exterior of the window is rivetted. Cheers all.

Thanks for everybody's help and advise. Basically: the only history of overheating is when the cap splits which first happened around May last year, since then it's a regular feature; the pelease pressure is 7lbs; when I remove the cap, and add water to header, the coolant flows quite freely. If you could tell me where to get a thicker walled cap then that would be great (current replacement from ASAP Supplies. I tend to agree that it is most probably an air lock in the system; any advise on how to remove it is welcome. Again thanks to all. Rick

Hi I'm on my fourth polar end cap in a year, and I can't think what to do to stop it regularly splitting. As you can see it bulges alarmingly and is very much distorted from its original shape. I've just put this one on and I'm going to check the engine every 20 minutes. I'm sooo fed up having to keep replacing it and clean up the mess in the engine bay. Any help or advise anybody?? Engine is a 1979 Austin Rover 1800 taxi engine and the end cap is A3-783 END CAP SMALL POLAR HEAT EXCH M/FOLDS Many thanks.