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Chris J

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Posts posted by Chris J

  1. Roger that. I guess it's why 60x12 is the most popular widebeam size... It's cheaper to go big than small (not that 57x11 is by any means small)!

     

    9 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

     Some serious searching to find that thread might save you that 20%

    I'm not looking to "save" that 20% I'm just trying to make sure that if I am buying something zero rate I don't get caught out. 

  2. 1 minute ago, mrsmelly said:

    living on a boat is expensive and I would just put VAT down as one of the many expenses incured.

    Fully versed in the acronym B.O.A.T yes. But when your trying to budget for something at this cost a 20% difference is very substantial. 

    I'm not looking to pull a fast one on anyone, I just want to know I'm not having one pulled on me.

  3. Well yes, this is I suppose what I'm getting at. Experience of contractual obligations, how they may have been written etc. Anything to look out for. I just want to know that if a company says its zero rate that it actually is and I'm not gonna get stitched up.

    I guess the simple solution is to word my own contract (perhaps checked by a solicitor) that would make the supplier responsible. If they refuse I guess it isn't legit. 

    Did I just answer my own question?

     

  4. Sorry if this has come up before in the last few years but seeing as the search function just doesn't work anymore I'm going to have to ask again.

    Looking for some clarification on zero rate VAT. I'm about to embark on a sailaway project (the OH wants a widebeam for us and the little one when it comes) Currently looking at boat builders to make us 57x11. I'm amazed by the variation in builders that can and can't offer this size as zero rate VAT. I've read up on what HMRC deems are the requirements for a boat to qualify zero rate VAT, and have also read how some builders have managed to cheat this. What I've decided is that surely there is not really a legitimate way to achieve the minimum gross tonnage without either having no gunwales or weirdly high gunwales (something I've not seen out on the cut).. So I want to hear the buyers opinions. Seeing as HMRC is basically saying 60x12ft is basically the smallest craft that could be considered zero rate VAT, who has a bought a sailaway smaller than this and and still been VAT free? How did you upon purchase make sure that liability (should the tax man come knocking) not fall on you but on the supplier. 

    Does anyone have any nightmare stories about buying a boat that you believe to be zero rate VAT then have been stung further down the line?
    On a slightly different note if anyone want to share their experiences of buying sailaways, would love to hear your thoughts on boat builders, who has been great who hasn't. although maybe keep any naming and shaming to a private message! 

     

    Look forward to hearing about your experiences.

     

    TIA   

  5. 3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

    My comment was in answer to MtB's post suggesting that flexible hose was not allowed, and pointing out that it was allowed in the RCD under ISO 10329 "Small craft -- Liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) systems"

    Appreciated. It was meant more as a reply to all rather than specified to you mate. Thanks again. 

  6. 22 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

    But in post #13 you said you wanted to comply with the RCD as well as the BSS

    I meant to also add into the above its compliance with RCD as well it passing it's BSS. 

    I think I've established that for it to pass again I need to replace the jubilee clips with hose clips that are permenantly crimped. 

    For the record it is not a fully flexible hose gas install throughout the boat. Only inside the gas locker. Everything outside of the gas locker is copper. 

    Its all a tad confusing but I think I've got the answer. 

     

    Cheers for the help folks.

  7. 3 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

    I'm reasonably sure worm drive clips are not permitted under RCD, but CBA to trawl through 90 pages looking for the reference!

    And similarly for flexible hose, except for final connections to gas bottles and mobile appliances. 

    All fixed pipework must be rigid pipe not flexi, IIRC. 

    The boat passed its last BSS And so far the changes are like for like hose replacement, but the hose fastening is with worm drive jubilee rather than crimped.  

  8. On 18/02/2018 at 10:57, catweasel said:

    Not sure I would want flexibles anywhere but at the reg. TBH. I suppose it depends on the existing setup, but it was easiest to use solid in my case. That said I agree you can secure the tester with or without flexibles. Whether they are actually allowed, I am not qualified to say, but I am sure I have seen it done in the past.

    My plan was to install the bubble tester inside the gas locker in the bow. The system basically being.

    2x 13kg gas tanks

    2x Regulator into manual changeover switch (8.3mm LPG High Pressure Gas Hose)

    Outlet of switch--> bubble tester (8.3mm LPG High Pressure Gas Hose)

    Bubble tester out to 1/4in Nozzle to 8mm (this is the exit of the gas locker where it becomes copper and runs through the boat to the galley) 

  9. Just bought the titles sake, and fitting whilst replacing my gas hoses. Open up the box and sachet of propylene glycol has leaked everywhere. 

     

    Question is, is there any harm in fitting it and using it without any liquid in the bubble chamber. I can't imagine there is but was hoping for confirmation from someone much wiser than I. 

     

    Thanks in advance friends.

  10. Yes yes, very efficient way of heating water, I've got stacks of experience of using them. Mines even got a thermometer so I can regulate the temperature.. Not so good for the shower though. 

    26 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

    Bullit proof Paloma has been running for 19 years with no replacement parts needed (and it was second hand when we got it).Has been in daily use. 

     

    If you have mains, I would go with an immersion.

    I should add, I do not have mains.

  11. Hi All,

    So, after a year of living aboard a boat that only generates hot water via running the engine and slowly warming up water in the calorifier which is all over in a hot minute. Ive decided that its time for some home improvements, mainly in the guise of hot water. 

    My initial thought was Webasto, but I read very recently that they don't like to work as just water heaters and need to do central heating as well. Lovely in times like this but I don't particularly want to be heating the boat via rads in the middle of the summer every time I want to do the washing up. Other thing is the quite high cost or purchase and what ever parts of the install I cannot do myself plus regular maintenance.

    Second thoughts a Morco gas boiler, but from what I see in the specs of the ones I've been looking at they only heat the water to 25C above the water temperature. Thats just not hot enough for most hot water requirements. Secondly I heard that BSS is wanting to phase out gas from boats so is investing is a gas boiler perhaps not wise.

    Immersion heater, to be honest I've done little to no research. Just the huge power output has put me off even considering it as an option. However knowing that my battery bank needs replacing and a new solar array is on the shopping list maybe it could work. 

    I guess what I'm asking is what from the above is myth, what people are using, what you find the pros and cons of your set ups are and how much they have cost you to purchase/install. 

    I've got a fair bit of cash to spend on the batteries the solar and the water heating I just want to make sure I spend it wisely and don't regret it in a few months years down the line!

    Look forward to hearing what you all have to say. 

    Thanks in advance.

  12. 6 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

    The float control is the control valve, Toby.

    Your flame is only part way up the pot because you are not getting enough fuel. If you have a partial airlock I know from experience, at such low flows, they never clear, but get worse

    Your small leak could be affecting the fuel supply and could be contributing to your airlock, your stove only uses about 8cc/min on mid setting and anything that disturbs such a low flow can have a significant effect. After blowing back through the supply pipe to clear any sludge, to re-establish your flow, you may need to suck through. A long piece of clear plastic tube is essential if you don't want a mouthful, or if you have an outboard type priming pump, this can help. Once you get fuel through, run a litre or two through to make sure the flow is sound. I earn my living servicing these type of burners in Rayburns and Agas, and a few local Bubble stoves, so I'm not leading you up any garden paths. They are simple units, and if you do not take shortcuts, and do the simple things right, you will have no more problems.

    Sage advice, it's really much appreciated, I'll have a go and sorting out tomorrow. The stoves been on for a good 3 hours now. It has moved back up the burner pot and is now only not burning through the top row of holes. however the flame has become a lot more orange. 

    Thanks again for your advice.

  13. Update, it's kinda working you know... I can't find a substantial leak: there is a leak. Its between the tank and the inlet to the fuel filter but is very very very small. As in its not like there is pool of diesel in the bulge just evidence of a small leak in one spot. So any way I lit the stove it's on and burning. Not quite as it should be. 

    It looked like it was about to go out so I whacked up the regulator a notch and that got it burning again. It's not the cleanest blue flame but it is mainly blue. Another observation is that it's sitting lower in the burner pot than usual. As in no flames are coming out of the top 2 rows of holes. 

    Something is clearly still not quite right but at least there is heat!

    IMG_4898.MOV

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