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My rev counter must be faulty too as goes well over 3000. It does jump up and down and doesn't work often

Ran 15 hours straight yesterday at 2000-2500 revs didn't go up over 80 degrees. Engine doesn't sound stressed is this particularly high revs. Its a 67 boat so needs some wellie

Got one and on my way again, thanks for the advice. Engine sticking to 70-80 degrees even at 3000 revs, happy!

Ok thanks looks like I'm stuck as anything would need to be ordered now. Oh well

The impeller has gone, trying to find out where to get a replacement, anyone know where I can get one model 4528?

4.5cm thick, 44.5cm height and 153cm length

Hi all Had new sensor and temp gauge fitted and the engine ran for about an hour at about 2500 revs, got up 90 degrees. Left Aldridge marina today after work (hooray and good riddance, not more to say) and traveled 4.5 miles, didn't go over 2500 revs but she did get close to 100 degrees but did not boil like before with coolant squirting out expansion, knocked her down at 100 and she cooled and seems steady at around 90. Does this sound normal. at an average of 2000 revs it makes very slow going indeed as took me almost 4 hours to do 4.5 miles and two locks solo?

Getting temp sensor and gauge looked at this pm. No sign of any other problems, start easy, does not lose oil, oil filler cap has no mayonnaise looking residue. Hopefully the mechanic attending can advise me on what the problem is and I can put all the faults I inherited behind me!

There are no visible leaks in engine bay. I don't really know how to check coolant level besides removing filer tap on top of expansion tank and peering down there? It's easy to start. The temp gauge does not work. I haven't removed oil filter yet.

Hi all Since I bought the boat 1.5 years ago, it's always got very hot whilst under strain. Coolant steam comes out expansion tank valve and occasionally squirts out. It's keep cooled and checked impeller before and all seems ok? Do they just get very hot or there likely to be a fault? Thanks

It doesn't start

I'm in Aldridge marina, Walsall. Not that mechanical tbh so looking for someone who knows how to resolve what I think is not a major problem. He showed me where the injector bleed values are and why he couldn't reach them without major removal of parts. Tried easy start with no success. He was with me for 2 hours and he did try hard.

Hi all Had a River and Canal Rescue out twice now with no progress on getting the engine started. First, they told me to drain the fuel tank and get rid of fuel problems (diesel bug), this was done but now saying suspected air lock and need to bleed fuel injectors. However, they say major parts of the engine need to be removed to do this as fuel injector bleed screws are inaccessible. Anyone got any experience of this with this please to offer me some advice to get resolved to get the engine started again? Thanks

Thanks, I didn't fit nor can I see into the tank but will assume approx near the bottom. Hope the engine starts now!

Wow what mission that was, getting rid of diesel nowdays is not easy, finally found a garage to take it off my hands, they will use it to clean tools and equipment. Tank is empty and relatively clean now. Now have to try fill which is going to quite difficult as nowhere near filling point so gonna have to be done manually by jerry can. Does anyone know where in the tank a fuel pick up is likely to be as the fuel pipe comes out quite high up on the tank but presume it must be quite low down but not the bottom?

Thanks all I'll see what my local garage charges to take it off my hands. It's Def got water in it so gonna dump, clean, treat and monitor in future. Hard lesson for a newbie.

Does anyone has suggestions as to where I can dispose of my diesel? Do the local recycling centers places take it or perhaps a garage for a charge?

This sounds very appealing and logical to me. Do you leave header tank in?

Does the system referred to above still need the pump to circulate?

The system has water in it, whilst new to boating I do know this much. The rear rad, the last one in the system does get warm but it's the smallest one. The pipe then cross over to other side of boat and along the entire length to front, across and back back to normal back boiler. The pipe before it returns into back back is not very warm and assuming it's losing all the heat from this very long run and then the morso has to reheat it. If the back boiler takes half the heat to a really inefficient radiator set it would explain why I am grumbling. So I guess the alternatives are to decommission back boiler. My neighbor did this and filled it with sand. Said it was the best thing they ever did or try and replumb a more efficient radiator system?

Hi all Thanks for all the comments. Since the last time I posted, I have checked the area behind back boiler inside the stove and it was reasonably clear, I did clean end of winter this year too. Been getting stove nice and hot with glowing coals, not being timid anymore. Its heating up much better but the rads are still lukewarm. they occasionally get a little hotter but don't remain that way for long. It has a header tank, has water in it, does not boil. There is a thermostat on the outlet of the back boiler which kicks the pumps in. I have this set quite high, think its about 60-70 degrees, the max setting appears to be 70. So essentially there is approx 134ft of 22mm copper pipework circulating water from the back boiler around the boat. This is mostly unlagged too.

It's doesn't have a baffle plate as have the back boiler in. I burn smokeless but with the safety catch on ash door it was taking an age to get hot. Now with it off it roars away but was told to run it too hot. How hot, is too hot? You seem to have answered my questions. Get coals glowing all over. The rads even when roaring still struggle and never remain warm for long. Bottom half of first ones stays cold, towel rail hardly heats up, small rad in rear of boat is the only which gets reasonable hot. Rads are on one loop which travels the entire circumference of the boat even though rads are only down the one same side.

Thanks will check the flue and behind back boiler and let u know if any improvement. When I bought in Dec last year as marina to service it and make sure it was in good working order but it's always struggled. I can keep it going all night but don't have alot of time in morning to get it really blazing again before I leave, any suggestions?

I thinks it's rated at 5kw. The rad are on a single loop. You can isolate the first radiator and the towel rail ones but the rear cabin one you cannot isolate. Perhaps I need to drain whole system. How do clear it of potential blockages? Could coolant have separated from water and be impeding flow? The saloon is still only at 18 despite fire burning now for 3 hours, shouldn't it be warmer? I have woodburner in my house where I stay on weekends and it heats up a space much larger than this with hardly any fuel.

Hi all Now the cold season is here again, started using the Morso again which has a back boiler with 12v pump for 3 rads. Its a 67ft boat. The radiators take about 3 hours to get up to a reasonable temp. Tonight I lit the fire at 5.30pm, radiators still cold and saloon still hovering around 15 degrees. When radiators do get warm, its only the top half. Have bled them again and again. Been told not to run the stove too hot as its not good for it. Just taken off the safety catch on ash pan door to allow it to burn quicker and hotter but should I be doing this? What am I doing wrong or does it just take absolutely ages to warm a boat from cold? I work all day so difficult to leave fire in all day. Any suggestions would be welcome as I am freezing.....