jono2.0

oh i see - phew! thanks :-)

Why do you say that? It displays both the voltage and the hours since reset and total hours as per the manual. This was fitted by the boat builder.

OK thanks, I think I'll leave them out then. The rev counter displays the voltage so no need for another meter.

Hi, I have a Victron BVMV-700 measuring my leisure batteries with a shunt etc., t works really well. I also have a starter battery in the stern battery box that is run from a lower powered alternator. I have another battery run in parallel from the engine battery some 58 foot away in a bow thruster area at the bow. Will I be able to measure these batteries using another Victron BMV-700 and if so how on earth would I do it!

I can confirm, it is definitely open. I've just driven down there in my car and taken a look today Tuesday 14th. Apart from a few freshly painted cill markers, you'd never know there was any work done to it. I wish CRT would keep their website updated as I've been waiting north of the lock since Friday grrr.

I'm currently on the Trent & Mersey Canal (near Weston Upon Trent) eagerly awaiting Colwich Lock 21 to open on Friday 17th March. Does anyone know, is it still closed? Despite the stoppage notice on CRT site, two different boaters passing me have indicated that is was all done and open. I'm not entirely sure they are right as they may have joined the Trent & Mersey at Great Haywood via the Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal.

Looking at the BS EN ISO 10133-2012 - Small craft - Electrical systems - Extra-low-voltage d.c. installations 7.3 Conductors and cables shall be supported throughout their length in conduits, cable trunking or trays, or by individual supports at maximum intervals of 450 mm. I have both the BSI pdf files already. Just wanted to check am I right in thinking that: 1. I can put cables in engine bay in either conduit or trays, and if in trays they must be supported at max 450mm spacing - likely a lot less than that in reality. 2. All cables behind walls, bulkheads, in the roof etc cannot just 'sit' in the space any more, they either need to be fixed again max of 450mm or in conduit right to the items like switches, lights, sockets etc.

Hi, I have a sail away with a brand new engine and semi clean (apart from the odd footprints) engine bay. The limited cables that are already in the bay when I purchased (cables to starter battery and cables to bow thruster batteries) were all in the black plastic spiral split conduit. Remembering this is a new boat and I need to follow all the latest regs, is it a requirement to have all other cables in the same conduit or can I connect some to say cable trays en-route to the cabin inverter, 12v supply etc. This continues to keep things neat but also allows the cables more air around them so not to get too warm. They would be cable tied to the trays, you know the sort with zig-zag holes and lipid sides.

Hello, yes, I did the engine first using the tap and pump and then using the empty oil tub cut in half I slid it under the engine to the gearbox. I then opened the top filling point to avoid vacuum and then released the awkward sump screw to release the oil. Once fully drained I put sump screw back and re-filled gearbox with nice fresh oil.

ok, so there was a small bit of rubber on the end of the tap which I removed before trying to get the pump working, I thought that was the bung. Oh no, there was a second quite heavy duty screw in cap that was causing the issue. I removed that and everything worked really well. I now have fully changed the oil in both the engine and gearbox and replaced the oil filter. woo hoo, my first of many but at least I know what to do now - Thanks all of you for your speedy assistance. Jono

mm, good point - I will check. It is in the down position. I will check the tap. It was 90 degrees against the pipe when i started and i put it so the handle was in line with the pump. I will check it in both positions though.

Yes, a good 15 minutes.

Hello, My first 50 hours is upon me and it's time to change the oil in the engine and gearbox. I have a canaline 42 that has a handy sump drain pump. Got myself ready this morning and turned the little tap below the pump, opened the oil cap and did one pump when it wouldn't budge. A small tablespoon amount of oil came out but I just couldn't move the pump up or down. The inline tap is definitely open but I've had to abandon my first oil change for today. I'm sure it's something simple but any ideas anyone? Thanks Jono

On it, thanks WotEver. I am getting a nice list of cables to be made up. I don't have the tools to do such large cable lugs so will need to find a supplier in the Stoke area (where I am at the mo). Anyone know where I can buy and have made up cables such as 95mm and 50mm etc?

ok, so it looks like I've solved my low voltage issue. I tested with the engine running the rear of the alternator. It is a model that only has a positive connection. I put the positive lead to this and the negative lead to the steel welded beam the engine sits on. It has a drilled 10mm bolt screwed through it. Still low voltage at 13.78volts. MMM, something not right here. I checked all connections and bolts on battery and alternator, all nice and tight. With it being a brand new boat with none of the electrics done apart from a starter battery I wondered if the engine itself hadn't been grounded to the hull. I found the negative on the engine where the starter battery was terminated and boom (Not literally - haha) 14.2v. So my conclusion was that the return cable via the shunt from the leisure batteries was terminated to the hull ok but nothing was connecting the engine to the hull. I temporarily connected the leisure negative to the engine rather than the hull and it's reading a healthier 14.2v and 53.10A. This is with the engine at tick over at 800 rpm. If I increase the revs it doesn't make much difference with 14.21v at 1300 rpm. I hope this is ok. Should I, once cables are made up etc move the negative connection via shunt back to hull grounding, and add another cable from engine neg to the hull grounding? Edit: Thanks Alan de Enfield for telling me about my too fast revs!

I currently have 95mm but I will be changing this as it should be 2x 50mm as per manual and terminals on the Multiplus. I have run out of space on battery terminal to have all these big cables so have ordered 2x 400A bus bars. I'm planning (with changes to alternator as suggested) to have: One for + with 95mm from battery bank to it and then, 2x 50mm cables to MultiPlus, 1x 95mm to alternator via 400A (I think) fuse, 1x small monitor cable to shunt, 1x 35mm to 12v supply in cabin. One for - with 95mm from battery bank to Victron shunt, 95mm from shunt to bus bar and then, 2x 50mm cables to MultiPlus, 1x 95mm to earthing stud fixed beneath engine, 1x 35mm to 12 supply in cabin.

Thanks for this. I've got a length of 95mm that I can use instead. Bought too much previously. I have a feeling the fuse is a 400A but not sure of that until I take a look. All the cables in the engine bay are within that black plastic flexible corrugated split conduit. I have the 35mm in one from alternator to fuse and then again from fuse to battery - will this still be ok for 95mm?

No probability about it - it's done exactly what you said it would :-) Now, 14.51v and 23.60A How many years did it take you lot to get used to generating your own power!

1.6m with a fuse in the line too. Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me. This is all so new to me but I'm learning, fast. The meter now indicates 13.91v 17.5A and dropping. 97% SOC - this is via the pretend, shhhh genny.

Oh I see what you mean (got to remember the rules). The funny thing is I am so out in the countryside I'm miles from any house, pitch black everywhere and not seen a boat in days let alone one being near me or even within a good mile or so. So apart from a few sheep looking at me from over a field, is it ok still?

I have 35mm cables from alternator to battery bank and then 95mm cables between each battery I am indeed.

Thanks but I hope this isn't the issue. The engine is exactly 1 month old today and straight from Canal Line. I'll do some multimeter work tomorrow. Thanks

wow, loads of answers already - thanks. OK, I've just been out in the rain (cruiser stern) and monitored the BMV-700 via Bluetooth on iPhone and I revved the engine way over 1500rpm and the max voltage was still below 14v. So I think either something isn't connected well enough or I'm doing something wrong with cabling. I'll check the alternator directly with a multimeter when it's not dark, cold and wet! (thanks nicknorman your reply came in whilst writing above) For now I've got my Honda EU20i, which works really well on LPG I may add, plugged into shore line and MultiPlus is very happy. Volts now 14.47 and amps 38.9A. I'll leave it on for the rest of the eve to allow it to go into float etc. Bound to me my dodgy newbie wiring! lol

Hello, I've owned my very first narrowboat for exactly a month so far so am a real newbie. I have: Sailaway 60' 4x 110Ah Lead Acid wet leisure batteries Canal Line 42 engine with 175A Alternator and a 50A for engine battery Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120 Victron BMV-700 I've wired up the batteries so that everything is via the shunt with nothing connected the battery side neg. My question is what sort of amperage should I expect to get from the alternator? I realise you should take every reading from Victron BMV-700 with a pinch of salt but am getting the following readings: Currently, Battery at 91% Battery 13.78v 28.10A is being put in from the alternator. I've seen the amps as high as 57A but never higher. I'm trying not to let the batteries get too empty as they are only a month old. I have set the BMV-700 up as best as I can using the Bluetooth settings tab so it's not at default settings. Just curious really as I'd have thought a 175A Alternator would pump more out. I realise the more already charged the battery bank is the less amps needed to fully charge - that could well be it. Thanks Jono

This is all great, exactly why I read this forum virtually daily! nicknorman - yes I'd love to have a tumble drier and with me motoring around lots it would be ideal to do washing drying etc when driving. I think 5x 285w solar is the max I can have on the roof so lets leave that as is. Looking at Victron. Instead of having multiple bits of kit with 2x MPPT's etc. What do you think of the idea of one mega unit: Victron Easy Solar 3000VA Inverter/Charger Victron Colour Control GX SmartGauge battery monitor That effectively has 2x MPPT's built in and it would be beefy enough to cope with washing / drying (not at the same time of course). Only concern is how to use alternator in this kit?