Bromleyxphil

hi is a Morso 1430 big enough for a 57X10 widebeam and is £850 a good price? The boats not built yet but i have been offered this at £850 brand new but bought and unpacked a year ago. Would you go for it? Phil

Sorry System 4-50 I see you have already answered me on my previous thread . Can’t believe it’s a year and I am still thinking the floor through. I am further on though as the boat is due in January.......I hope.

Did you sprayfoam on top of or underneath the bricks? have you documented the process anywhere, I would be very interested in reading it. phil

Hi guys I am going to get into the boat and paint the baseplate and sides up to about one foot with two coats of rustoleum paint https://www.rawlinspaints.com/home/metal-paints/direct-to-metal-paints/530-rust-oleum-combicolor.html I intend the block paving ballast to go on top. Now comes the slightly controversial bit, I intend then laying a thin layer of cellotex type insulation on top of that then the boards to a distance of 10mm to the sides of the boat. I will get the foam insulation sprayed right onto the floorboards in effect sealing the bilge from the damp air in the cabin above. I have asked the builder to fit some vents at the front piped down to the bilge and I will cut a hole for a bilge pump and a vent at the back of the boat which will be sealed to the back of the fridge with a high level vent to outside (possibly assisted with a computer fan wired into the fridge compressor. Before you all think I am just lighting the blue touch paper The thinking behind this is :- The whole area shouldn’t come into contact with the wet, warm air we produce above. The whole area should stay at a pretty constant temperature below the water so not be prone to condensation. There will be some fresh air transfer as the fridge will draw cool air from underneath the floor. If we have a leak in the cabin it will be visible quickly. Puts hard hat on and watches thoughtfully. Phil

Where there any thoughts on my use of a recessed bar to lock the sliding hatch?

thanks for all of the info and the pics guys. I also found this example and will show you pics on this thread of the solution I actually use.

I went to have a good look around a nearly finished boat at my boatbuilder yesterday so now can start to work through my problems before mine is built. I intend to lock the sliding hatch with a simple recessed bar that lifts up into the hatch top and slides over the front lip to open and drops into a u shape section on the front face to close. The rear doors open outwards and I don’t like the look of the tags with holes in on the pictured boat. It doesn’t look easy to lock the rear doors particularly at the top. I have searched and read lots of posts this morning but not found an answer, lots of threads are difficult to follow with the now lack of Dropbox images. Any good ideas or pictures of how you secure your rear doors? Phil

Hi the Calorifier is a 30 litre one of these https://www.elgena.de/collections/boiler/products/nautic-therm MEE version with a 3bar relief valve.

Is an instantaneous gas water heater not a more efficient way to heat the water when not using the engine that much?

Just me and the wife.......no bath but also NO GYM

I have a 30 litre stainless steel 24v, 230v, single coil Calorifier in my shed......long story. Is it going to be big enough for a liveaboard boat or am I going to spend my time wishing I had sold this one and bought a bigger one? phil

I have my name down for a few moorings up here on the Leeds Liverpool which is where we will start but once we sort out the house we intend cc ing for a year or two.

Well it's a big day for me today as I have ordered my 10x57 sailaway which should arrive at around or just after Christmas......"let's hope Santa has a big truck" I would like to thank you all for answering my silly questions and some folk on here who have gone above and beyond to help me. I hope you will follow my build and brace yourself for lots more questions. Thanks Phil

A guy I know went through on the 29th July and the CRT checked the width of his boat.

The CRT say 62' maximum I understand they now measure your boat

You never know someone on here may have beaten me to it!

I am hoping it will if it's 10 feet wide as the stated maximum is 10'6"

I am aiming at a 10 x 57 boat as I am based in the north and want to do the Ribble link max 10'6" and the Calder and Hebble which I thought was 57'6" max but today I was reading through the BW details and wonder if I am mis informed, has anyone done the C+ H in a 57x10 ?https://www.waterways.org.uk/waterways/canals_rivers/calder___hebble/calder_hebble

Thanks for all of the input guys, I have decided as we are not getting any younger I will go with the rail that gives the better grip. I am past style over function......no warerfall taps or brass "that needs polishing" onboard. Phil

Now you are just trying to confuse me even more! My feeling is that I like the look of the box section but the rail seems more practical and safer in that it's easier to grab and use. Does that sum it up or should I flick a coin?

I am now down to two boatbuilders, this isn't the deciding factor but they both use a different finish on the top section of the cabin. One has a rail and one a boxed section on the corner. I was wondering what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two systems? i have tried to attach two exemplar photos phil

Well most of them seem to be in the midlands. Anyone reccomend a boat painter up here preferably in the north west of England. I am close to ordering the shell and want to see if the budget will stretch to a pro paint job. phil

I am mulling over the electrical system and given that I want to put at least 1kw of solar on the roof and the distance between the battery bank and some of the consumers (bulbs,pumps etc) I am thinking of a 24v system with 24 12 droppers close to the consumers. I see some advantages in that I can use a smaller solar controller, less voltage drop, option of 24v pumps. Main disadvantage needing a 24v second alternator on the engine. Does anyone run such a system? What do you think? phil

I have been given by Barrus the name of their expert so I will ring him and discuss on Monday.

The data I have found suggests a 19x12 but I must admit I don't know what I am talking about. Suppose I should ask the builder I am going to see him next week to try to do a deal on the boat build.